20 Most Recent GE 14.8 cu. ft. / 419 liter Chest Freezer FCM15DMWH - Page 2 Questions & Answers

fixing freon leak. Evaporator is leaking freon. Replaced Evaporator on this video

Look on the sides or back for a louver. It's behind the louver.

Does the noise start when you push fast freeze? It bypasses the thermostat. If the green light is out it may just be the light itself and nothing to worry about. Check power to the freezer!

Ok, basic refrigeration here. The 'high side' contains the high pressure vapor leaving the compressor and going to the condensor to condense into a high pressure liquid. The 'low side' contains low pressure refrigerant vapor within the evaporator and the suction line back to the compressor. The same amount of vapor has to return to the compressor as left the compressor. So thinking about pressure solves the problem....High pressure equals small line... Low pressure equals larger line. The low pressure vapor will fill a larger space than high pressure vapor so it has to travel in a larger line. The suction side is the bigger of the two and if the unit is functioning, it will be the one cooler to the touch. Though this is basically correct in theory, it is not a totally perfect way to descsribe an answer to your question, but it was fun to try.

You have the typical symptoms of either a bad defrost timing circuit or a defective defrost heating element.

A bad thermostat stuck in the closed position could cause it to run continuously. A bad door gasket could cause it to do the same. But it would have to be really bad. The door not fully going closed could be leaking warm air into the cavity causing the issue.

If the compressor is running yet the suction (larger pipe) on the compressor is not cold, or if it is frozen, you probably have a refrigerant leak and need refrigerant.

If all is running, suspect 1 no gas, or 2 compressor not pumping. Is there any heat from the condensing area?

There are only three wires, aren't there? One is a safety earth, probably green or green and yellow. It goes on the spade attached to the metal of the thermostat body. The other two are a live and switched live. They go on the two spades that come out the plastic body. If there happens to be a third, it will be an alarm signal wire. Connect in any order you like. If the compressor comes on and the signal light, all is well. If the signal light does not come on, and the compressor switches off at -12c swap 2 of them. If none of this happens, switch 2 of them.

Check for blocked condenser coils. or a stalled condenser fan motor. This could be your problem. Also check if you have ice build up in the freezer back panel. if so, you have a defrost problem and this could be a defrost timer,heater or defrost thermostat. The worst case it could be an inefficient compressor.

First off if the compressor is running then you need to clean the condenser. If the compressor is hot and not running. The. Compressor is shot and needs to be replaced.

Is the motor running. Check if it has enough refrigerant gas. If the freezer runs normally for a long time and switches off, then replace the thermostat.