GE Freezer  14.8 Cu. Ft. Manual Defrost Chest Freezer - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

May I get the model # of the freezer so I can help you more

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yes the compressor seems to be good but it has an internal overload inside the compressor if that collaps your compressor is busted but try to ajust the temp..or reduse the refrigerant charge to minimal the running hour of the compressor.

yes it is as most units have a heater around the doors and inside the unit to aid in defrost and to help keep the unit frost free

Bad timer

Check for refrigerant pipes leak, fix it and add some refrigerant gas.

Did you find out what was wrong? Mine is doing the same

Hello
Take a look at the model number plate,somewhere the amps should be listed.

Add up the total for both freezers.One may be 8 amps the other 10.

So a 20 amp will work.Do not be more then 10 % over the total.

ya know take pictures of broken parts if you can if he has a boss explain to him what happend what your unit is now doing be nice but also be firm tell him if you want me to I can purchase the part that was broken by the tech but I expect it to be replaced free of charge tell him what do we need to do to solve this problem they dont put extra parts on appliances just to toss away good luck alex florida usa

Your condenser fan motor at the compressor is either filthy or needing to be replaced. Air flow is pulled over compressor to keep it at a good operating temp. If the fan cannot pull air across compressor it will over heat and shut down on overload. Imagine working in yard on hot summer day and wearing a dust mask over your mouth and nose. Your body shuts down more needing more rest. Same thing with refrigerators, they have to be able to breathe properly also.

Good day,
Within reason that is normal, since the condenser is embedded in the walls of the machine. It should have at least 8" of space on all sides but that's it.
If it ever stays cold then that is when I'd start worrying.

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Jack.

zero to 10 degrees F.

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The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

Hi. this will be a failed relay on that circuit board. This is called the PCB(main unit power control board). This board controls the compressor relay functions, and the compressor power current, as well. The evaporator fan, and condenser fan, receives their respective current from this power control board, also. When a circuit board of this nature begins to malfunction, it will cause the unit to not cool properly, due to limited, or no fan actions, or a failed compressor cycle. I would recommend to replace this damaged control board, asap.

It sounds like a bad door gasket. Check it carefully. Try placing a piece of typing paper in the door, close it and see if it stays, if not replace the gasket.
Good luck,
Gilshultz

low charge dirty coils if it has any???

have you tried to replace the fan motor located behind the panel, just remove the 4 screws in each corner and the fan is behind this panel, it should be 2 screws and a few wires to disconnect, replace motor and connect wires this should cool the freezer properly

Take all your things out of the freezer and pull the racks out. there should be a way to remove the back panel inside. Behind the panel is a bunch of coils. If they are covered in ice you have a problem. At the bottom is usually a single element or double element heater. Replace that and you should be good to go. They are about 30-40 dollars at your appliance store. They will need your model number to get the right one. Let me know if that works.

hello, how are you, if there is water in your ice bucket, it seems as though when your icemaker sends a signal to water valve to give water, your water valve is sending too much water into icemaker, the solution would be to replace water valve which is behind the refrigerator at the bottom. it should be blue in color which clear plastic tubing connected to it. This happens when the water valve solenoid doesnt close completely.

All fridge and freezers should be plugged into an NON-GFCI protected outlet, since the inital start of the compressor can cause the GFCI to detect a millivolt surge, when the compressor starts, causing the GFCI to trip.

If this is in a kitchen, you should change out the outlet to a non-GFCI outlet BUT only to a single outlet that only has the freezer plugged into.

If it's in a basement, garage, or some other place with a GFCI outlet, you can change out that one outlet to a standard single outlet device of which ONLY the freezer will be plugged into and remain code compliant. You will need to make sure that any other outlets served by that current GFCI outlet stay protected, by installing the GFCI you swap out, and put it in place of the NEXT outlet in the circuit.

By doing that, you will have the first outlet that was the GFCI, now a single outlet NON-GFCI serving the freezer, but the next outlet in the branch circuit gets a GFCI outlet, thus protecting the rest of the circuit, in compliance with the NEC (National Electric Code)

If you need further help with this, please comment back and I'll check back later and provide you more detailed info. Of course, be sure to turn off the breaker to this circuit before making any changes to the outlets, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!