I would try defrosting first. If no difference, or worse then you may have a refrigerant leak. You could always try setting back to the original setting. Hope this helps.
Was it very iced up? That can cause bad temperature registration. Also turning it off for an extended period resets the electronics. Monitor it for a week, then order the beef.
Great question but I cannot answer it. GE makes several models of chest freezers and they are not all wired the same. My eyesight is not to good and I cannot see your freezer so I cannot answer your question. You might try our friend google and look for the make and model of your freezer with the prefix schematic.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/general-electric-refrigerator-gsl25jftabs-repair/gsl25jftabs-frost-buildup.html I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
It sounds like this is a a non DIY issue. there is really not much you personally can do.
Contact an authorized servicer fir best results
Good luck! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
the users manual does not cover this particular issue as to the temperature swing. I have seen some thermostats that are the "constant on" type that you are describing. No way of telling from the vague manual. As long as you are not storing ice cream for a long period of time, 0 degrees is usually fine for most home applications. Sorry I can not give you more info.
They are usually for extra ddehumidification based on the area you live in. If your freezer is working correctly, I would just leave them where they are at
Ok, basic refrigeration here. The 'high side' contains the high pressure vapor leaving the compressor and going to the condensor to condense into a high pressure liquid. The 'low side' contains low pressure refrigerant vapor within the evaporator and the suction line back to the compressor. The same amount of vapor has to return to the compressor as left the compressor. So thinking about pressure solves the problem....High pressure equals small line...
Low pressure equals larger line. The low pressure vapor will fill a larger space than high pressure vapor so it has to travel in a larger line. The suction side is the bigger of the two and if the unit is functioning, it will be the one cooler to the touch.
Though this is basically correct in theory, it is not a totally perfect way to descsribe an answer to your question, but it was fun to try.
A bad thermostat stuck in the closed position could cause it to run continuously.
A bad door gasket could cause it to do the same. But it would have to be really bad.
The door not fully going closed could be leaking warm air into the cavity causing the issue.
If the compressor is running yet the suction (larger pipe) on the compressor is not cold, or if it is frozen, you probably have a refrigerant leak and need refrigerant.
