If the compressor is running yet the suction (larger pipe) on the compressor is not cold, or if it is frozen, you probably have a refrigerant leak and need refrigerant.
There are only three wires, aren't there? One is a safety earth, probably green or green and yellow. It goes on the spade attached to the metal of the thermostat body. The other two are a live and switched live. They go on the two spades that come out the plastic body. If there happens to be a third, it will be an alarm signal wire. Connect in any order you like. If the compressor comes on and the signal light, all is well. If the signal light does not come on, and the compressor switches off at -12c swap 2 of them. If none of this happens, switch 2 of them.
Check for blocked condenser coils. or a stalled condenser fan motor. This could be your problem. Also check if you have ice build up in the freezer back panel. if so, you have a defrost problem and this could be a defrost timer,heater or defrost thermostat. The worst case it could be an inefficient compressor.
First off if the compressor is running then you need to clean the condenser. If the compressor is hot and not running. The. Compressor is shot and needs to be replaced.
Is the motor running. Check if it has enough refrigerant gas. If the freezer runs normally for a long time and switches off, then replace the thermostat.
A "potential" relay is a voltage controlled start component for the compressor. If your sure the potential relay is bad, not the start capacitor or a seized compressor, Order one from G.E. and replace it.
You need to unplug the freezer because the compressor is getting hot and the reason the compressor is trying to start but cannot. This clicking is possibly a defective=> WR7X225 Start Relay or a defectve WR62X10058 Run Capacitor If you have an OHM meter you can test the compressor windings. as in the instructions here=> Unplug the freezer and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze Have you already solve this problem?