20 Most Recent Cadet Manufacturing 67507 Heater Questions & Answers

internal thermostat issue

I work in a motel and replace these heaters quite often, Cadet C202, a 240v 2000 watt wall heater. Most of the time when they blow cold air it's because the heating element is broken. First turn off the circuit breaker, then remove the heater from the wall. If you take out three screws, slide the top cover off, bend the two little tabs and take out the heating element, you can examine it and usually you will find a place where it is broken, it's like a big spring. Replacement elements can be ordered from online stores such as reliableparts.com Be very careful, 240 VAC is very dangerous! <!-- from fixya rte -->

hello,

this means that the heater of your cadet have been disconnect from it position or it has gone bad

please note this, that the heater is call element technically if you to get a replacement for it

what you have to do from here to fix up cadet is that unscrew your heart with the basic tools trace the maize i.e the wire down fan then trace the wire from the fan to the element it's always white in colour if it's properly connected from it position then you have to passive it if smiley borne meaning that it has gone bad then it will need replacement,
but if it is disconnected then you will have to do the fixing you self by peaking up the loss wire and fix it up back to the position

thank you and thanks for using fixya.

first... did this heater work properly in the past?? if not, the wiring may be incorrect..... but to answer your question the safety limit is usually on the left end of the baseboard (inside the small cover). it is the round thing that is installed inline on the wiring. replacing it is an easy fix... just be sure to turn off the electric power FIRST.

Go on the manufacture web site and see if you can get a replacement

you will have to determine which set closes on a fall in temperature, (use ohm meter and dial the stat to lower temp) you want it to close to complete the circuit as the temperature falls

live

your wiring is all wrong. for a 240 heater a 20/20 tandem breaker will not work with a 240 heater. you need a 20 amp two pole breaker. the two wires at the heater need to be connected to the line. you probably have two black wires at the heater. one connects to the white romex which should be taped black, and the other romex black connects to the other black wire. at the panel one white goes to one side of the breaker and the black to the other. the bare ground goes to the neutral bar.

you have a element out

heat coil burnt out

If its a one story house, the system pressure should be somewhere around 10 to 12 psi. There should be a PRV (pressure reducing valve) on the domestic water line supplying make up water to the boiler. The shut off valve in that line should be in the open position unless the prv leaks through and slowly overpressurizes your system to the point of tripping the pop-off valve. If so, then the manual shut off should be kept closed then opened only to boost the pressure up a bit in the system. It kinda sounds like you are suffering from low system pressure. If there is a vent or vents in the system, try bleeding them into a coffee cup and you may find it sputtering air/water mixture. Bleed them until you have full water flow and make sure you keep approximately 10 psi in the system.

There is a little sensor called a 'flame sensor' that is inserted into the actual flame. Its only job is to complete a grounding circuit on the control board actually through the gas flame... By the description of your problem, it sounds like it either has oxidation on its surface OR the physical connections at the flame sensor itself or where it plugs into the control board have just enough oxidation to imhibit the signal from the flame sensor. I would suggest calling the service center to have a tech look at it.