20 Most Recent GE Profile JGB900 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

You will need to replace the probe. Here is the part to order.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Your problem is with the oven ignitor. Remove the racks from the oven, remove bottom shelf. Remove the metal plate covering flame spreader. The igniter should now be visible. Turn oven on and watch the glow from the igniter. It will come on but it wouldnt get too bright, so it wouldnt open the gas valve. After changing the ignitor, oven should light.

possible

Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. Should be 3 - 3.6A. If less than 3A - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.

Part numbers, the first one being the direct replacement: WB13T10045, 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Those ignitors are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires, if not comfortable splicing wires - order the first one.

Good luck!

you need to get your gas company in and make sure your supply is going into your home at the right presssure

Hi,i think you are trying to bake with a temperature higher than what is required by your gas kitchen range,perhaps,Somehow your oven is set to cook in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit.

To switch back to Fahrenheit open the oven door, then press and hold BROIL for 5 sec or until "F°" will appear on the display.you are good to go.
if this doesn't wok,please give me the detailed,exact error message,so i can help you out.

Thanks and take care

HI. The door locking mechanism will be the culprit, here. In order to confirm the damage, you will need to gain access to the actual mechanism. Once you have exposed the locking mechanism, pay close attention to the actual circuit section of the mechanism. The contacts will be used for the testing procedure. You will need to inspect the wiring at the locking mechanism. make sure that it is connected to the main PCB, properly. One of the most common causes for this particular issue will be connection failure, due to a slight separation at the contacts. This separation can occur overtime. at the control board, or locking mechanism. Once the connection is severed, the locking mechanism will stall. The connections at the control and locking mechanism should be tight, with no corrosion, as well. Check the insulation around the wires for faults. If the connection to and from the control is optimal, this will lead to the actual door locking mechanism. Use the procedure below to test the circuit functionality.


DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM TEST:

Before repairs or further testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. Set the latch to the "clean" position and test for circuit continuity at the terminals of the switch with your VOM's ohmmeter function. If there is no continuity, the switch is faulty. Use caution when testing.

Most of the time it is a bad transformer located on the main board. this may only have one board and they call it the clock ***.good luck! If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

the burners on ge range are different in size / you may have the caps on the wrong burners . 2nd / ck for the hole in the burner are clean ( do not enlarge them when cleaning .. ) if this does not work . see if the ignitor's are in good cond . if chipped replace .. mm

This almost always requires replacing the touch key panel. Once in a great while you can avoid replacement by disconnecting the ribbon connector from the key panel to the electronic range control and cleaning the end of the ribbon connector with a soft pencil eraser. Good luck.

it is without a doubt your ignitor
if you goto www.appliancepartspros.com
typer in your model number
your looking for the bake ignitor

usually runs around 50-60 dollars but i believe they are on sale this month

it is a very easy reapir and can save you a 75-100

go to www.searsparsdirect.com and enter your model number you will be able to see a detailed parts list

Hi, this is a lock switch malfunction and you may need to replace this.Check the wiring to door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrong). Check for stuck lock switch.

It is a safety lock and must not be disconnected. Wait until the water has dried.

Question edited for clarity. The bake element failed? Test for continuity. If it has a fan, test that too. If it is electronic, check the thermistor temperature sensor. For suspected control panels or mainboards, I always suggest dealer service so you get the correct diagnosis and warranty on the parts and the job. They are also expensive. ..