20 Most Recent GE Profile Spectra JGBP85 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

If the screws are recessed, get a piece of the kids plastercine or play doe and make a stick, flatten the end you are putting into the hole, make the stick just a bit smaller than the recess hole. Push the stick into the hole until it stop press gently to get an impression, prserve it and go to the tool store and match it. Good luck

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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#%$terw

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Your oven ignitor is failing. install a new oven ignitor.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

This indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

keep you finger on the unlock button for about 10 secs and also try the stop clean

sounds like a bad ignitor(s) you pres start and temp never goes above 100, looks like it should be workin just never heats??? if so that s the most commmon problem

This is a common problem on gas ranges. on each burner there should be a white ceramic piece by each burner. Locate the on nearest the burner thats not working. Remove this piece and replace

Hello. Unless your local codes require it no. It just allows room to work and 48" is minimal as you'll see.

builderdale

Try unpluging it for about 5 mins. and plug it back in. when the power went off it was a power shurg.

If that don't work. It may have burnt the curict board. Ken.

I assume you have found an answer by now, but for the record, they are referring to an *Appliance* gas shutoff valve, not the major one for the home. Each gas appliance should have an easily accessible shut of valve (for a cooktop, it would typically be in the cabinet below). Older homes with basements may have it located there - the idea is to be able to shut the gas off to that individual appliance.

This is glass because glass does not burn, does not melt at oven temperatures, and is a pretty good insulator. Also allows the cook to watch the cake rise.

I would not replace with anything but factor glass. Too dangerous, even regular glass is not properly treated to be safe in this environment.

The cash for clunkers gets extended to appliances soon, perhaps this makes a new one more affordable?

Hi there,


There might something that went wrong on the door latch mechanism. You might need to check the latch motor or the motor driving circuit to see what's preventing it to go to OPEN position. But before doing that, please try to run the LOCK MOTOR TEST by following below steps..

ENTER AND EXIT THE DIAGNOSTIC MODE

To perform the ERC diagnostic tests, follow the steps below:

1. To initiate the ERC test mode, first remove power to the
appliance for approx. 8 seconds and then reapply power.
2. Simultaneously press the COOKING TIME, DELAY START
and number 8 pads. The word "tESt" will appear in the
ERC display. NOTE: If no keypad entry is made within 5
minutes, the ERC test mode will "time out".
3.LOCK MOTOR CYCLE TEST - The lock motor
cycle test allows you to run the latch assembly through
one complete cycle of operation, testing motor
operation and front & rear latch switch contacts. To
perform this test, push and hold the SELF CLEAN key
pad - make sure that the oven door is closed (light
switch depressed). While depressing the SELF
CLEAN pad the lock motor will run through a complete
cycle. Watch the ERC display closely as it will change,
based on the location of the motor and the position
(open or closed) of the latch switches.
Illustrations A, B, C, and D show the sequence of
events that will occur during the complete lock motor
cycle, as well as what will be seen in the ERC display.
Notice that the numbers shown in the left side of the
display represent the position of the lock motor as well
at the contact positions (open or closed) of the latch
switches.

DOOR LATCH MECHANISM
The latch mechanism is thermally Controlled.
When the SELF CLEAN cycle is selected and the
oven sensor senses a temperature between 560°F
and 650°F, the ERC supplies power to the lock
motor, driving the motor towards the LOCKED
position. When the lock motor reaches the
LOCKED position, the micro-switches on the lock
mechanism signal the control board to stop the
motor, leaving it in the LOCKED position.
When the oven sensor senses a temperature of
approximately 300°F. the control board once again
supplies power to the lock motor, driving it towards
the UNLOCKED position. When the UNLOCKED
position is reached, the micro-switches on the lock
mechanism signal the control board to stop the
motor, leaving it in the UNLOCKED position.


3. To terminate the ERC test mode, press the CLEAR / OFF
key pad.

If you can't see the lock moving during diagnostic then you might want to check the mechanism and circuit. I suggest ask help for an expert technician to do it for you but in case you want do it, here is the diagram on how to access the mechanism and also the circuit diagram..


Goodluck and I hope I was able to help.

Regards,
Jeep Brainy

Hi Kurt, welcome to FixYA!
In the diagram below, Part #28 is your ovwn ignitor. (See the red markings to highlight it)
It is located underneath the oven floor, and the floor should come out by removing the two screws located in the bottom rear of the oven cavity. Take out the racks, take out those two screws, and lift the oven bottom up from the rear, then disengage the front lip and lift it out. I hope this is helpful info and thanks for allowing us to be of service to you.
to you.

Lift top upward & look under, you'll probably see small wire(s) running to ingnitors, see if perhaps wire fell off side not working.

http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/Dispatcher

Not sure my first attempt to solve your problem went thru so I am resending this info. Use the link above to get to the GE Website and download your manuals
Regards,
Rick