GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You most likely need a new control panel.

Faulty switch if you are changing it yourself remember turn off power and take your time, take a photo to compare so you get it right. Good luck. Ray

Hi Danielle, I reviewed the manual for the GE JP350 cook top. Pg. 6 states:"The UNIT ON indicator light will glow when any surface unit is on." If the burners are all set fully to the Off position, this lamp should be off. The off position requires that the knob be pressed in to change to Lo, High or any position between (once no longer in the Off position, depressing the knob to change it is not required). If you're able to change the from Off position without pressing the knob, there is an issue with the switch - that may be contributing to the problem.The cooktop is a 208 / 240 volt appliance. This is the highest voltage in your home. Voltages as low as 50 in the right circumstances can kill, and for this reason repairs must be performed with safety as the first priority. The cooktop sensors have determined that a control is on. If they are indeed off, there is a problem with either the sensor or one (or more) of the controls. You may have luck by locating the circuit breaker or fuse (2 pole 40 amp breaker or (2) 40 amp fuses) and removing power from the cooktop for a minute or two, and then restore power. This would allow the electronics to reset and if a logic problem - it would clear. If there is a hard fault somewhere, the indication would return again.You should have the cooktop professionally serviced if the indicator fails to extinguish. I hope this helps & good luck!

Hi

Test the switch for continuity, if it tests open then replace it however, replacing both of them is always a better option. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi emaly169,

Moisture or water have come into contact with your ignition devices, they just need to be dried.

Please follow my directions on the Tip below on how to do this:

GAS STOVE CLICKING PROBLEM...

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If this solution helped you, please rate it

Hi Is the element working but you still have the fault code? If it is working you can reset the codes by shutting off the breaker and flipping it back on after a few minutes, if it is not working then you most likely have a bad element and it will need replaced. Other issues that can cause the code are bad wiring on the element or loose connections as well as a bad wire to the selector knob. If the burner is stuck on high that is caused by a bad infinit switch or burner control knob.

Hi marilynmcdon,

You can do it yourself. These cook tops are not glued to the granite at all (Or is not supposed to be). Simply lift is up slowly, start from the side, and lift it slowly. If done carefully you won't damage anything.

Hope this helps

JEDEMEYER1

* If this solution helped you, please rate it.

Hi sounds like you have a busted switch assembly, this is very much fixable the part is around $50, but you would need to remove the top of the stove which requires pulling the unit from the counter, this is slightly more involved, but definitely doable i would also change the knob. A more accurate name would be infinite switch.


Sean

can you write again your problem

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have a defective control board

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck
ewrwer
werwer

Hi,
They are not that hard to replace and you can easily buy the part online...
Here is a tip about how to buy appliance parts online.

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

heatman101

That is to tell you that your Infinity Switches are faulty and no good.
So whatever one is lit, change it

If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

One of the heat elements is touching ground. Not worth repairing as you have to replace at least 2, maybe all elements

If this is a glass top cooktop then yes the bunner light will still be on when you turn it off. Also the bunner area will be still be hot. The reason why the light is still on it is telling you that the bunner surfas is still over 95 degrees. Once the bunner area is under the 95 degrees the light will go off. It is a safty warning for people saying that the surface is still hot.


Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer.

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You will need to remove the cook top from the opening to access the switch.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

sounds like the heater coil is defective or switch is bad. service tech is needed for this. components has to be checkjed properly.

no....bcoz no model oven that have door lock..

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Lift out cooktop, remove all machine screws holding the glass frame. Remove plastic knobs and lift glass top straight up. Make sure rubber gromits are not ripped or torn. Unscrew the small screws on the selector switch and then lift up and tilt over the small aluminum chasis holding the switches to expose the wiring connections. Pull off the wires and pull out the defective switch. Replacre switch, connect wires, re-seat switch chasis, and secure switch with screws. Carefully drop in the glasstop lining up the switch shafts and the rubber grommets. Secure the top with machine screws and drop back in the cutout.