20 Most Recent GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi,Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keepson clicking...Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking heatman101

Hi hjaragon,

I believe your ignition switches have come in to contact with either water or moisture.

Please read my below Tip on how to fix the problem:

GAS KITCHEN APPLIANCE CLICKING SOUND...

If it does not solve your problem, I'd suggest replacing the ignition switches.

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If you found this solution helpful, please rate it

Hi rvaidyhome,

Please read my below Tip on how to fix the problem:

GAS KITCHEN APPLIANCE CLICKING SOUND...

If it does not solve your problem, I'd suggest replacing the ignition switches.

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If you found this solution helpful, please rate it

Hello Blair
Does the clicking or spark stop with all knobs in off position? If so it's probably the one burner valve for the one you're trying to light ,stuck in light mode,sending signal to module.Have that burner valve replaced.($50). (2) If clicking continues even though everything is off, it could be any one of the burner valves or your ignition module is messed up .You would have to pull wire off each burner valve one by one to find the offending valve . If not valves then suspect ignition module.
Easily fixed either way.



Feedback appreciated !

The burners on an LP (liquid propane) gas range should produce blue flames with yellowish tips during normal operation. If there is more yellow than blue in the burner flame, or if the burner makes hissing and sputtering noises, the air-to-gas mixture may need adjustment. The range burners are each equipped with an air shutter that can be adjusted to improve the fuel efficiency of the appliance. Adjusting the air shutter with a screwdriver takes only a few minutes.
1. Turn off all burners and wait for the range to cool.
2. Lift off the grate from each burner and set aside. 3. Pull up on the range cooktop and raise toward the back of the appliance. Many ranges have a steel support rod to hold the cooktop in the upright position. Lift the rod and insert the tip in the hole on the underside of the cooktop. 4. Turn the setscrew in the air shutter next to the burner counterclockwise to loosen the shutter. The air shutter is built into a metal tub that feeds LP gas to the burner. 5. Push in and turn the control knob to light the burner you are adjusting. If the flames are excessively yellow, slide the shutter wider until only the tip of the flame is yellow and tighten the setscrew. Narrow the shutter to stop hissing sounds and sputtering flames, then tighten the setscrew. 6. Lower the cooktop and replace the burner grates on the range.

You might want to visit the link HERE it is helpful, and as well for your future reference.
Click HERE as well.

I hope the links and steps are helpful and will work for you.

Hello

1. Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.

2. Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.

If these procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and moved manually to open the door.every time it locks.

In order to open the door you have to open the control panel and remove the door lock.

Remove the three screws from the bottom of the control panel. You'll heed a 1/4" open wrench. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and push it up to release from the upper tabs.

The door lock is secured by the three screws.

if the problem persists then i am afraid you will have to get a new control board for your oven but if the oven is still covered by warranty then GE might fix the problem for you for free or for a very little fee

If none of your burners are igniting, you need a new Spark Module. If only 1 or 2 of your burners are not igniting, you may need a Spark Igniter. Click on the pictures below for a larger image.

The Spark Module is number 318 in the following diagram (underneath the burners):

The Spark Igniter is number 154 in the following diagram:
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

It raises up and down via motor.If its making noise it can be weak motor issue .Check the motor and its connections.Also other possibility can be control board, but first the motor and its connections needs to be checked. --------

You can get the required parts from online sites like:---

www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.---------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keepson clicking...

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking
heatman101

I assume you are talking about general pilot light which illuminates when you turn any of the four hotplates on. This light gets its power supply from the hotplate contollers. The controllers generally have a pilot light circuit which links all 4 controllers to the pilot light. I haven't seen this problem before. Either a small amount of power is escaping across the pilot light contacts inside the controller or the pilot light is getting a feedback from another source/fault in the cooktop. The only solution is to dismantle the cooktop and use a voltmeter or similar to trace the fault. Unless you understand how the problem occurs it's probably best to call a repairman.

Possible faulty element. What about the clock/timer? Is it on the right setting? It should be in manual mode. If the timer is okay it will generally be an element or a faulty connection at the element.

your spark module is probably bad. it is something you can do yourself if u have have a little technical skills, really not all that difficult to change. you will need to open the cook top to get to the spark module. Could also be a problem with you spark switches. they could have went bad from getting wet. its kinda hard to tell which one it would be, but it could be either of the two or maybe even both. After service call, parts, and labor, a repair company would probably charge you close to $200. maybe more depending if its both the switches and the module. Hope this helps

What is the model number of the cooktop?

OK, you did the easy part already.
Re-check the wiring when you have time.
6 out of 10 time is a defective switch but you has TWO out at the same time so it is unusual.

Once again lead me back to the 3 areas
wiring harness potentiometer / switches combo burners =====
PLEASE OBSERVE THE DANGER OF ELECTRICITY BEFORE STARTING INSPECTIN /TESTING.

Try to do a left to right burner swap to rule out coil burner problem.
It may not sit well or direct fix (please be careful on the placement of the coil unit)
Follow the know good burner unit.

The switch has two portion. Indication SPST switch and pot.

I'm a true believer of PB-Blaster I would invert the switch and blast / clean the two problematic switches outdoor.
Clean all connector with PB Blaster and ohm them out one last time.

Please keep me posted on the fix via email.

Module control failure.

or you could also have a switch issue sometimes when the switches overload on the inside they arch from one side to the other this causes power when it is introduced into the game to go through the switch the switches are wired in a chain from one the next in order to check this you would have to test where the voltage goes through each wire around the switches if your not familiar with doing electrical tests i would strongly suggest you call a technician. I just recently had a ge cafe that was a 5 burner and when you turned on to light one all would try to ignite after doing tests on the switch for which one was letting power go through even when the switch was off i narrowed it down to one switch and sure enough on the inside of the switch it had overloaded at one point and arched the metal inside the switch from one side to the other and this caused all to try to ignite because the switch was first in the chain if you have any further questions message me back and please remember when our chat has concluded to rank how this opinon has helped Thanks again Rick