20 Most Recent GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi

Test the switch for continuity, if it tests open then replace it however, replacing both of them is always a better option. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi emaly169,

Moisture or water have come into contact with your ignition devices, they just need to be dried.

Please follow my directions on the Tip below on how to do this:

GAS STOVE CLICKING PROBLEM...

Kind Regards

JEDEMEYER1

* If this solution helped you, please rate it

Hi Is the element working but you still have the fault code? If it is working you can reset the codes by shutting off the breaker and flipping it back on after a few minutes, if it is not working then you most likely have a bad element and it will need replaced. Other issues that can cause the code are bad wiring on the element or loose connections as well as a bad wire to the selector knob. If the burner is stuck on high that is caused by a bad infinit switch or burner control knob.

Hi sounds like you have a busted switch assembly, this is very much fixable the part is around $50, but you would need to remove the top of the stove which requires pulling the unit from the counter, this is slightly more involved, but definitely doable i would also change the knob. A more accurate name would be infinite switch.


Sean

can you write again your problem

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have a defective control board

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck
ewrwer
werwer

That is to tell you that your Infinity Switches are faulty and no good.
So whatever one is lit, change it

If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

One of the heat elements is touching ground. Not worth repairing as you have to replace at least 2, maybe all elements

If this is a glass top cooktop then yes the bunner light will still be on when you turn it off. Also the bunner area will be still be hot. The reason why the light is still on it is telling you that the bunner surfas is still over 95 degrees. Once the bunner area is under the 95 degrees the light will go off. It is a safty warning for people saying that the surface is still hot.


Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs up for the free answer.

Hello,

Follow the link below to see the information therein, the link will guide you on how to get to the part you require.


http://www.appliancerepair.net/apnet/frameset?http://www.appliancerepair.net/apnet/oven/ch03.htm


Type the above link on your web browser to see the information it contain.

Take care.

Replacing a control element is easy. generally the elements controller will have a number on it , remove the relevant controller, of course remove the power to the unit before starting any work, before doing so draw out the connections and wire placements. They are all clearly marked. Now go to your local electrical supplier and show him your controller, he will be able to supply you with a suitable unit, which of course you can replace following your drawings. This should return you cook top to service. These are often called "Simmerstats" or "Infinite" heat controllers.
http://www.tobins.com.au/Datasheets/simmerstats1.pdf I have included this link above for you.

Here's a diagram that may help to see how it's put together. You may need to lift the entire cook top out to reach screws. Cut Power Off.
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=408805&ModelNum=JP350BC1BB&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=2&Selected=00116231i01&Position=0&mfg=GE&Type=&Mark=0

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

This is usually the infinite switch has failed. They are easy to check and inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing this. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You will need to remove the cook top from the opening to access the switch.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

sounds like the heater coil is defective or switch is bad. service tech is needed for this. components has to be checkjed properly.