20 Most Recent GE 30 in. JP340 Electric Cooktop - Page 8 Questions & Answers

OK, you did the easy part already.
Re-check the wiring when you have time.
6 out of 10 time is a defective switch but you has TWO out at the same time so it is unusual.

Once again lead me back to the 3 areas
wiring harness potentiometer / switches combo burners =====
PLEASE OBSERVE THE DANGER OF ELECTRICITY BEFORE STARTING INSPECTIN /TESTING.

Try to do a left to right burner swap to rule out coil burner problem.
It may not sit well or direct fix (please be careful on the placement of the coil unit)
Follow the know good burner unit.

The switch has two portion. Indication SPST switch and pot.

I'm a true believer of PB-Blaster I would invert the switch and blast / clean the two problematic switches outdoor.
Clean all connector with PB Blaster and ohm them out one last time.

Please keep me posted on the fix via email.

Module control failure.

or you could also have a switch issue sometimes when the switches overload on the inside they arch from one side to the other this causes power when it is introduced into the game to go through the switch the switches are wired in a chain from one the next in order to check this you would have to test where the voltage goes through each wire around the switches if your not familiar with doing electrical tests i would strongly suggest you call a technician. I just recently had a ge cafe that was a 5 burner and when you turned on to light one all would try to ignite after doing tests on the switch for which one was letting power go through even when the switch was off i narrowed it down to one switch and sure enough on the inside of the switch it had overloaded at one point and arched the metal inside the switch from one side to the other and this caused all to try to ignite because the switch was first in the chain if you have any further questions message me back and please remember when our chat has concluded to rank how this opinon has helped Thanks again Rick

Put a sheet of wax paper between the two plates for a few minutes while it heats up, then remove. It will transfer the wax to the grill so you'll temporarily restore the non-stick coating.

Hi, if you can hear the clicking sound but are not getting a spark then there is probably a short in the ignition system. Check for any loose wires on the ignition system. Make sure all the wires are properly seated. Make sure the spark module is properly grounded. As far as testing the spark module it should be generating a spark of course. The problem is that the average voltage for the spark module is 15,000 VDC so actual testing of that voltage can be difficult. Is the spark erratic?(should spark evenly). An erratic spark timing is a sign of a bad spark module. Is the spark slow? Check the polarity of the electrical plug. If it is clicking evenly then it is probably arcing somewhere inside the cooktop and you just need to find out where. Also be aware that if you get water into the cooktop that can cause possible grounding of the spark module or ignition system.

Hi

As the burners work intermittently and won't spark the issue is with the spark module going bad and should be replaced. However, if you want you can try to clean the burners first and see if this makes any difference, if not then replace the spark module. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi

Please post back with the manufacturers name and model no for assistance.

Daniel

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You have a defective control firing off. I suggest you just turn off the the power to the unit, until you can have repairs made.

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

Their is no pilot lite on your oven..the clicking you hear is the electronic pilot system..
you have a defective control knob...

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have to pull the range out from the counter and remove the back

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Unplug your cooktop for 24hrs and retest. Sometimes moisture gets into the switches under the knobs and can cause a short. If this continues after you let the unit dry out then your will need the replace the switches/or switch harness.
Hope that was helpful please rate me a "4" if that helped.

unplug it

unplug it and buy a new one

If you are saying the clicking continues you must move the burner knob past the LITE position.
If it continues clicking with the knob past the LITE position the ignitor switch behind the knob is bad.

Most likely this happen after cleaning the cooktop. Water has gotten into one of the spark ignitor switches. Generally, if left unplugged for a time (like a day or so) it will dry out on it's own and resume working again.

take off the knobs, unscrew the plastic underneath the knobs, take off the plastic cover. unscrew the four metal screws holding the the display panel on. remove the 5 silver screws across the top inside of the plastic cover front and the 2 black ones on the lower left and right sides. remove the to stainless steal stews on the sides of the stove towards the rear top. these should allow you to remove the cover once you unplug the two cables going into the burners.

When this happens on mine it is because some water has spilled into the recesses around the knobs, shorting the switches that supply power to the ignitors. It stops when they dry out. I don't know how this would have happened at 5 AM though.

I usually turn off the electricity to the hob until the switches dry. You can still use the burners, you just have to light them by hand.