20 Most Recent GE Monogram ZDI15C Automatic Icemaker - Page 9 Questions & Answers

manually drop hot water inside the freezer area, the freezer area have a little hole with a pipe laying to the tray down. as for as i concern the drainage pipe is closed due to ice. but if u drop hot water inside the freezer area it will unblock the pipe. and the friedge will work better then before..

good luck
shafky

Mine has been doing the same thing and foound it was the pump cavitating (dry). What caused it on my unit is there was buildup of minerals on the sides of the freezer plate so the ice slab wouldn't slide all of the way down onto the grid. When the unit would start the next cycle the water would ramp up over the stuck slab and down into the ice bin and then the pump would start making the noise. A related problem could be the cutter grid not heating so the slabs back up and results in the same issue. Look up into the freezer plate next time it makes the noise and see if there is a slab partially stuck.

It has a circulation pump that continuosly supplys water over a plate that forms a slab of ice on it. As the slab gets thicker the resistance values change in the ice and the machine opens a hot gas solenoid operated valve which floods the plate with heat from the condenser below. This makes the slab slide down the shoot onto a wire grid that is heated. The slab is cut into tiny little cubes and drops off into the ice bin. So yes the machine has a circulator pump. Ever so often you need to put it into the clean mode and add some nickleguard or ice machine cleaner to keep the pump and its components all happy happy. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

yellow pages....most commonly the pump is locked up the shaft is off center from the hole on bottom.

Thickness control.

This model Icemaker makes ice by flowing water across a freeze plate. It is located in the top of the unit behind the white cover directly below the ON/OFF/CLEAN switches. After freezing a sheet of ice it releases and slides to the cutting grid. It then drops into the ice bin and begins to melt and the whole process starts over again. The level of ice in the bin is controlled by the high level sensor on the right side of the ice bin. It is a whit tube with two wires coming out of the top. Without this sensor it can overrun the bin capacity. Bottom line this unit does not freeze ice, it only holds it like cooler does.

Turn it back to clean and see if the water pumps.

Below is a couple og links. One is for the user manual and the other is for parts should. Sounds to me the cutting grid is not getting hot and cutting the ice into cubes. PDF below, click link

http://imgs.ebuild.com/xCat/ebuildWebB/15?ObjectID=1105&Variant=Original

For parts or free answers go to this link and enter your model number into the search feature. Model ZD115C That will take you to a page with pictures and part numbers. The home page you may call or email for answeres. I did see a control board and for some reason the cutter is not heating this will cause the problem. Thanks, Sea Breeze

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

investigate each of these two areas if your icemaker is not making ice :
Water Inlet Valve andDefrost Thermostat


now we ll check to see if water inlet valve has a problem

Your icemaker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.
An icemaker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.
Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.


directions for testing the water inlet valve is given in the below link

http://www.partselect.com/refrigerator+test-water-valve+repair.htm



directions as to how to replace it is given in the following link


http://www.partselect.com/refrigerator+replace-water-valve+repair.htm







if u need to replace it check out the following link


http://www.partselect.com/locate-parts.aspx?Appliance=Refrigerator&ModelNum=&Type=Valve,%20Water%20Inlet%20-%20Drain%20-%20Backflow





now we ll see to check if the defrost thermostat is the culprit


 It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting.
Or your icemaker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.


to test the thermostat follow the below link

http://www.partselect.com/refrigerator+test-defrost-thermostat+repair.htm 




to replace it if necessary... clik below link




http://www.partselect.com/refrigerator+replace-defrost-thermostat+repair.htm



for replacement parts kindly check the following link




http://www.partselect.com/locate-parts.aspx?Appliance=Refrigerator&ModelNum=&Type=Thermostat%20-%20Humidistat%20-%20Sensor&MinSize=1&MaxSize=2







thank you


hope i was helpful


good luck with ur ice maker


have a nice day

high level sensor is bad.

Read the manual and see if the icemaker has a thermostat that prevents the admission of water into the tray if the freezer temp is too high. Also..make sure the ice level bar is down.

Hi!

Please check whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check.

Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

Please rate the solution.

Thanks
Rylee

Possible clog in float valve or solenoid is stuck open

check the Shutoff Arm:

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown below

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.

you might want to turn the whole fridge off (remove the food to a safe place) and let the fridge defrost, wipe any water up and retry. If it is under warranty, call GE