20 Most Recent GE Monogram ZDI15C Automatic Icemaker - Page 7 Questions & Answers

All your problems appear to be caused by a leak in the circuit = it has caused the partial loss of the cooling fluid/freon so the freezer is struggling. The entire circuit must be checked, the leak identified and plugged, the circuit purged and refilled. This is a job for a pro, specialized equipment is required. Don't wait too long or the fluid will be completely lost and the compressor will burn running on empty.

Put 2 cups of water into the maker.

Hi,

Your ice maker is designed to fill with water for 6 to 8 seconds. Depending on your city water pressure, anything longer than eight seconds will overfill the ice tray and either over flow the ice maker or create cubes that have difficulty ejecting. There are two basic issues that commonly cause an overfill condition. The first is an ice maker that is sending power to the water inlet valve for a period longer than eight seconds.

The next problem which is water inlet valve that is closing too slowly. The power to the valve is being shut off in the correct amount of time, but due to imperfections in the valve, it is closing in a delayed fashion.
The easiest way to determine if your water inlet valve is the culprit, is to install a meter volt meter across the leads of the water inlet valve. Set the voltage range for 110v. Manually cycle the ice maker and watch the meter. When the ice maker begins to fill with water the meter will read voltage coming from the ice maker. Note the difference in time between when the voltage is cut from the valve and when the water quits filling the ice maker.

If the water shuts off immediately when the voltage is removed, the valve is likely operating correctly. If this is the case, it is likely that the voltage will be applied to the valve for a period of time greater than eight seconds. This generally indicates an ice maker control problem.

However, if the voltage is removed from the valve and it continues to fill, the valve is likely at fault. This indicates that due to particle build-up or mechanical failure the valve has lost its ability to shut immediately. in this case, simply replace the valve and it should fix your problem.

Let us know if you want something more else accept the suggestion.

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

You may have a defective or stuck float switch. Check in your water reservoir located in the back of the unit below the cutter/maker section. there should be a trough with a circulating pump in it and an incoming water supply with a float switch.
I can't find it in the parts diagram to be 100% certain, so here's a tip- If you find the water inlet valve (that you hook the water supply to) follow the wires that connect to that. The wires have to run through the float switch.
Good luck!

You have biologics growing within the water circuit somewhere. Shut off the water valve and remove the hose from the valve and the fridge so you can empty it; make a 2 tbls. bleach per gallon of water solution and clean out the hose by soaking. Retain some of the disinfectant within the hose when re-attaching so that it flows through the rest of the system. I would recommend replacing the filter if yours has one (some do not). Open the valve and make a tray or two of ice, repeat if needed to kill the algea.

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

I have the same problem and haven't solved it yet. I have a brand new water heater. A retired carpenter/contractor (47 years) posted this, saying that he knew what it was right away. He said it was the deep well pump. (I do have a well). The seal in it had broke and was leaking oil into the water. Every time the pump would come on it would stir up the tiny bit of oil, enough to make it look like a barrel. I haven't had mine checked yet, but it certainly makes sense to me.

Hello. Since it was just "repaired" call that repair shop and report what happened. These repairs should be under warranty and the shop should come out and make it right. In the meantime, there should be a lever that the ice will hit as the tub fills. When that lever is hit, the machine stops making ice. See if you can find that part and manually turn it to the off position. It could be that this was a one time malfunction. Joe

Hi and welcome to FiXya. I am Kelly

It sound like the icemaker has a problem of it's own. Here is a complete diagnostic procedure with pictures and "how to" of your icemaker.

This will identify the problem with your unit and determine it is the icemaker or the water valve.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

If your willing to do as it says you can fix it yourself.

Otherwise a repair person is going to do those exact steps for a "fee."

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

If it's like my well water was there was sand in the water which would lodge in the water inlet valve where the water supply connects to the fridge on the back. It prevents the valve from closing completely. Sometimes it would clear it's self if you keep cutting it on and off till it stops. I also had the same problem with the cold water in the washer. Replacing the valve didn't help because the sand kept coming. Some type of filter is needed in the water line before the fridge is needed.

i have the same problem but can't fiqure out a fix.

Check and/or replace the water filter. Also checked that water supply is turned on.

Ice machines are rated in pounds per hour. They usually have an arm paddle switch that tells them when they are full or a weight switch that works the same way.

If possible, transfer the produced ice to another container when the machine is full and allow the unit to keep making ice.

This assumes the machine is working properly and that the cubes are solid. (frozen and not watery).

CLR will work great, just rinse the ice maker very well after cleaning the calcium deposits and throw out the first few batches or bins of ice produced after the cleaning process. Good luck !

nead to know more, the area between the frig and freezer has a heater in it to prevent moister buildup.you can turn this off by turning on the energe saver mode.next you nead to take the kick plate off in the frount and bottom off frig.on the right you should see the condencer coil's, clean them.

Wake up one morning and Boom no ice left in the bin. What happened and What can I do to fix it without calling someone? Some ice makers will get a piece of ice in the wrong place and jam the extraction. Get a hair dryer and heat up the ice maker to release the fouled ice cube and that baby will start going. No water in ice mold?Do this easy test: pour some water in the ice maker mold and wait. If it kicks out a batch, but it has no water in it, most likely the water valve is bad. Watervalve for SxS box Since it is the cheapest part and you can do it yourself replace it. If it turns out you need a new ice maker then you have a new water valve already to go with it. What if the ice maker has ice in it but won't harvest any? One cheap and easy item for the do it yourselfer to replace is the ice mold thermostat. Check for voltage between T and H if you have 120 volts then the bi-metal (inside that ice mold thermostat) is bad. If it's good you will have 0 volts. Ice mold thermostat Located in the plastic housing and seated against the ice mold is that thermostat. This looks intimidating but is easily fixed by anybody who could change a spark plug. There is no wiring. One more thing to look for: You can put a jumper between L and V and this will activate the watervalve. Have rags ready! If you are a cheapskate and want to be frugal and not buy a new ice maker or a new head(brain) modular crescent ice maker you may want to remove the main gear and clean the copper plate behind it. That plate gets dirty and won't allow for a good contact with the water valve connection and does not power up the valve...Shhh! They will all be doing it! Modular crescent Icemaker test points: With NO power to the icemaker, and ice ejection fingers in the freeze position: Your ohm meter should read 8800 ohms between L and M, and 72 ohms between L and H. With power ON to the ice maker: If meter reads 0 volts between L and N you have no power to the ice maker. If the meter reads 120 volts then you have power to the ice maker. If you have 0 volts between L and H heater is off if you have 120 between L and H the heater should be ON. If you have 0 power between L and M the motor is off. If you have 120 between L and M then the motor should be ON. If you have 0 volts between T and H the thermostat is closed If the meter reads 120 between T and H then the thermostat is OPEN. If the voltage is 0 between N and V the water valve is closed. If the meter reads 120 water should be filling the mold. Confused yet? LOL