20 Most Recent GE GSH22JFR Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 3 Questions & Answers

It's on the face plate, at the bottom of the refrigerator

you should check out www.applianceart.com, they have vinyl and magnetic solutions that can cover your appliance in a new color or pattern. They even have a stainless steel option for refrigerators too.

Usually when this happens it is because of a problem with the fan that moves cold air from the freezer section of your unit to the refrigerator section.
Either the fan has gone bad or the unit has frosted up to the point of stopping the fan. Try defrosting (unplugging) the unit over night and then check it to see if the fan runs.
If not then replace the fan. If it runs and then stops after awhile like days or even a few weeks, then you may need a defrost timer.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok then you should install a replacement start relay. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Yes the water line has frozen in the door. There is a kit to repair this WR49x10173

Do not put good money after a tried and true machine. 30 years is twice the noral life of a good refer. You got it, and trying to squeeze any more time out of it is pouring money down a hole.

The 30 year old machine will use about 2-3 times more power than the newer ones, and that will lower your power bill considerably. Could lower it as much as 15-25 dollars a month. That can go a long ways towards paying for the new one, plus you will be able to leave the house, go camping and vacation and feel better that you probably will not come home to a "Melt Down" refer.

Wish I had better news for you, but this is the truth and I make nothing for explaining this to you. I have had hundreds of customers that some how become attached to there refers and just do not want to part with them. Do not let this machine own you.

Kindly,

Jim

Is this a new or used refrigerator?

There appears to be a double water valve located on the bottom of the fridge. One of them is either clogged open, or there is something on the door lever which is keeping the water switch constantly enabled.

Ok , I'll help you .
Pull the refrig out from the wall , and unplug . Remove the 8 " X 10 " panel on the back of the refrig . Inside this panel , is the main control board .
Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and remove about 1/4 inch of insulation , from both ends . Insert 1 end of the wire , into the slot of wire2 , and the other end , into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in .
After about 2 min , look inside the freezer , behind the bottom crisper , and look for a red glow . This glow , is the defrost heater .
If no glow , this is an indication of a shorted defrost heater , or bad defrost thermostat , both of which are located behind the rear freezer panel . Unplug the refrig , and reinstall the blue connector , and the 8 x 10 panel .
The pt # for the heater is WR51X10101 , and the part number for the defrost bimetal is WR50X10068 . Both should be replaced . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws , and the thermostat , is clipped on the top right of the coils , with a blue and pink wire going to it .
If you do see a red glow , reasemble as above , and remove the rear inside freezer panel . At the top of the coils , on the left , you will see 2 white wires attached to a 1 " piece , which is clipped to the coils . This piece is the # 4 thermistor ( evaporator thermistor ) . Pt # WR55X10025 . Also replace the # 5 thermistor , ( freezer thermistor ) which is at the bottom of the panel , slid into a holder , also with 2 white wires going to it . Both thermistors , sent readings of temp , by coldness resistance , to the main control board , which then decides if it needs to defrost , or cycle off due to coldness reached .

The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.

Leave the door shut and let the magnetic gasket hold the door in place. Put something between the bottom of the door and the floor to hold it in case it slips.
Remove the bracket holding the pin and hinge assembly taking note of order of removal of parts. Slide new cams on. You probably need two.

icemaker fill tube fallen out ? causing water to hit fan?? flooding floor???

It sounde like the main control board quit communicating with the dispensor board . I would replace the main control board Pt # WR55X10942

Is the compressor coming on at all? If not a capacitor may be bad .

what you want to do is replace the coolant tubes in your fridge... i would suggest calling in another repairman and see if he says the same thing please rate my solutions... please.

wow! why?....maybe a new fridge would be better

how is the freezer? if it is ok is the freezer back panel full of frost if so then you have a defrost problem and the ge is really good for the heating elements to go bad

If the condenser fan is not running then the compressor will overheat and go out on overload. Replace the fan motor and that should correct the problem