20 Most Recent GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

check to make sure the arm or what ever controls the cubes isn't stuck closed or the inlet to the maker isnt' got some restriction

Pull it out again and with it running (making noise) look at the fan to see if the fan blade is hitting the bracket.

did you replace the entire control board?

Have you checked the light switch. It is common for the light switch to also keep the icemaker from driving the ice through the door. It shouldn't keep the icemaker from making ice though. It could be the icemaker being bad or the water valve being bad.

your drain line may be plug up therefore is going above the level make sure you see water on the bottom tray next to the condensing coil under the refrigerator. thanks.

It has a pan but with most GEs the pan as part of the frame and are not removable.

The inlet line is either kinked or the line is frozen up which would require a total defrost e.g turn it off for a day. the other reason could be the water valve itself.

probably a dish rattling against something else when door closed

It circulates cold air throughout the freezer, so everything's about the same temperature. Without the fan, the bottom of the freezer would be colder & the top would be warmer. It's also important for the automatic defrost timer - it makes defrosting last MUCH less time.

The water valve solenoid of the refrigerator has gone bad.

If the freezer is cold enough to freeze food hard, look for a problem in the water line, water inlet solenoid valve, or possible ice build up on the ice maker itself that does not the allow the ice maker to complete it eject cycle and start a new ice making cycle.

Possible blockage in the water line at the water inlet valve. Possible blockage in the line tapping valve on the cold water line. Possible bad solenoid coil located on top of the water inlet valve.

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Seal around the door should be "warm" not "hot" in my opinion... Only purpose for the electric heat in door seal is to evaporate moisture that will condense on the otherwise cold surface of the door seal causing drippage or if door seal on freezer to prevent frost buildup. In design of unit no reason that engineers would want or need to have this seal 'hot" because a mild temperature say 50 F would be adequate to do the job. Perhaps some physical damage to the electric wire in this circuit causing a short and more current to flow making it heat up??? Maybe not a baffle problem at all...... To me the baffle is such a simple device it would be hard to imagine how it would get screwed up. The one on my old Norge is almost 50 years old.... [ Yeah, I know, I waste probably twice the KWH that you guys do.... but my wife insists on keeping this old coppertone fridge and I keep rep[airing it over the years.]