20 Most Recent GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

F1 error and beeping. Don't bother getting GE out there. Cost me $90 to learn they don't make the clock. WOuld have been $500+ for the control panel anyway. Better off just buying a new one. Planned obsolescence I guess. I won't buy GE again.

Most of the installation manuals for GE appliances are available on their support page: http://www.geappliances.com/ge/service-and-support/literature.htm . I found several double wall oven models with the JKP27 designation. However, the G0J4BG does not fit as part of the model number. There should be 4 letters after JKP27 in the model number. These letters primarily indicate the color of the exterior. For the JKP27 models, the installation manual says that the cut-out should be 32 1/2" above the floor. The depth has to be 23 1/2". The cutout width should be between 25" and 25 1/4" (these are an absolute minimum and maximum). The cutout height should be between 27 5/8" and 28 1/8". The direct link to installation manual for one of these ovens is here: http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=003675840.PDF . See page 6 for the cut-out dimensions. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

this is usually a thrmostat fault

Yes the probes can stick out from the back oven walls. They look like thin pencils about 6" long. They should NOT be loose. The probes are your temperature sensors. If they become damaged your oven may not work. The probes are generally high up on the wall and to one side...about an inch or so down from the top...and the same from the side. They should be horizontal and not bent at an angle. Some probes run along the side of the oven wall and do not protrude into the baking area. In general the probes (whatever type) should not really interfere with the baking zone

Honestly? Microwaves are not tremendously expensive, and they are dangerous if repaired improperly. You can get a service person to look at it, but I wouldn't unless they offered free estimates. If they can do it inexpensively, go that route. Otherwise replace the microwave. This is not a project for DIY if you have no experience in this area.

either bad igniter or bad oven safety valve check with multi meter. for continuity. beware that the igniter can check ok with multi meter but still fail manually as it may not put out enough current to run heat and ignite flame. u may also have a bad oven sensor? which turns off heat prematurely agin check with multi meter

It is a good chance that that button is bad on the keypad. the key pad will need to be replaced.

Use the following model number and go to Sears; JKP27GJ3. Expect to spend just under $100.

Hi ssantillo,

Usually F1 error code means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be cancelled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC), touch pad, or both.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

I successfully replaced my WB27T10063 with the WB27T10276 (ERC3-GE-M) by following the instructions (Pub. No. 31-10515)."they tell you for the Broil Relay to connect L1A to the common terminal."This is simply a misreading of the poorly written instructions.

1. Bake: yellow goes to yellow NO.
2. Broil: violet goes to violet NO.
3. Broil: black L1B goes to violet COM.
4. AUX 2 goes to AUX2 (black and white wire).
5. AUX1 goes to AUX1 (daisy-chained black from violet COM/L1B).
6. OV2 goes to OV2 (white wire).
7. OV1 goes to OV1 (brown wire).
8. L1A goes to L1A (daisy-chained black from AUX1).
9. N goes to N (daisy-chained white from OV2).
10. GND needs to be "tucked under the (steel) clock bracket" on the control panel.

The hardest part was disconnecting the wires from the old ERC. Took a LOT of force! I also had a hard time figuring out how to release the green tape thing apparently labeled "J1" on the old ERC. Piece of cake after that.

The F1 error is similar to the F7 error and the fix may be similar. It indicates that the touchpanel needs to be replaced. The problem is really one where the insulation is breaking down between two sections of the ribbon cable which connects the touchpanel to the electronic control. I have solved the problem by placing slip of paper between the two secions of the ribbon cable. The slip of paper should be worked down into the slot. It will only go about 1/8". A piece of file card material works well. See attachec photo. If you have a metal touchpanel, you will also have to add slips of paper at the edges of the metal slot. __Be sure and turn off the power to the oven at your circuit breaker!____There are usually three small screws at the bottom of the touchpanel. The panel may need to be pushed upward to release it. Have a friend available to hold the panel while you work on it. Do not allow the panel to dangle by the wires.____Please let me know if this works for you or if you have any questions. You can reach me at [email protected]. I have shared this solution with over 830 folks. Most report success.

There is a retaining clip that needs to come off.