20 Most Recent GE JKP45 Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

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You have a bad control module.

Check for 220v as 110v will give one leg of power but not both. your breaker. or your control board is faulty.

On most self-cleaning ovens after you push the clean cycle button you have to tell it how long you want it to clean. Try pushing clean then pushing 3:00 for 3 hrs. If you don't have a number pad try pushing the clean pad several times and see if it cycles through clean levels like low, med or high. Then after you tell it how long to clean hit start. If you don't have a start button the oven should start cleaning after around 5 seconds. It will lock the door and begin the clean cycle. Also remember it takes around an hour for the oven to cool and unlock after the cycle is finished. Hope that helps.

If you mean you bought a marketplace service and posted a question I imagine the answerer would get it by email if that was your request.






American stoves If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi

Usually it happens due to loose ribbon cable on the keypad or the electronic control assembly itself going bad. To resolve this issue first, disconnect the power to unit and then gain access to the back of the clock assembly (Electronic Range Control/ERC). Now unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC, it would be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide and make sure that the cable is not broken and nothing is shorted on the keypad. After this is done insert the cable back and then plug the unit back to check. If the issue is still there then the display board should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

You will need to replace the receptacle for the oven. This is common for many types of receptacles.

Hi

To unlock the keypad in your GE Oven press and hold the "0" and "9" buttons for 15 seconds. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

according to the website i use to look up part#s while the part# you have is indeed not available a replacement for it is WB27T10050
to removeand replace it unscrew the screws that hold it to the cabinet pull it out about 4-6 inches,remove the grill directly under the control panel on the upper oven and look for screws around the panel where ya have pulled it out of the cabinet
to see yourself the replacement part# go to searspartsdirect and enter the model# and you will see the eoc (electronic oven control) as item #16 under the control panel and top tab

Error F1 means that the control panel has gone bad and to resolve this issue it should be replaced. Unfortunately there is no other way it can be resolved.

The part is no longer available so unfortunately the only way to fix the issue is to remove the control board and mail it to a place like Appliancetimers.com to have them refurbish the parts. This will likely cost $200 or so but it's the only way to fix your issue at this point.

Additional details about this part coudl find in this DIAGRAM PARTS LINK.

Good luck (remember to rate and comment this answer).

The solution applies to most built in GE ovens, but the wire coloring may be different for some models. Make sure you check your wiring diagram that is specific to your model number.

Symptom: F2 errors, oven display stays at 100 degrees, uneven cooking.

Description: You turn on the upper oven and set the temperature. The left orange numbers on the display light up and show the set temperature. After about a minute the left temperature shows 100 degrees and stays there. You check the upper oven, but it is not getting hot. The lower oven starts to warm up. If you set the lower oven, the exact opposite scenario exists.

Cause: When the upper oven is set, the control board turns on power to the elements and measures the temperature in the upper oven. The problem is that if the orange wire is connected to DLB2 instead of DLB1 and the yellow is connected to BA2 instead of BA1, the lower oven will begin to heat instead of the upper oven. In short, the wiring is wrong and needs to match the wiring diagram. Here is an example that covers most built-in GE ovens:





Upper Bake(BA1) - Yellow Lower Bake(BA2) - Yellow/White
Upper Broil(BR1) - Violet Lower Broil(BR2) - Violet/White
Upper DLB(DLB1) - Orange Lower DLB(DLB2) - Orange/White

This page ( fixyourboard.com/boards/WB27K5119 ) describes a common hook up problem that fortunately is easy to correct and causes no permanent damage. A partial list of model series that this applies to is: JKP44GT JKP44GV JKP45WP JKP45WT JKP45WV JKP54GP...

Hope helps.