20 Most Recent GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

I, too, have the GE -JKP86. Microwave over oven. My oven would not heat up on bake or broil. Elements checked good, no fault codes. This is how I fixed mine: Shut off power at the box. Remove unit from cabinet. I placed mine on a chair. Remove cover(s) until you expose the circuit boards behind the control consol . The top board is behind the microwave controls, the bottom is behind the oven controls. Remove the bottom board by removing 4 screws. I take pictures with my smart phone, even some video. Helps me remember how everything goes back together. BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF, HIGH VOLTAGE IN HERE! One of the screws is hard to see. It is behind the ribbon connector. Unplug everything carefully. You will see a red and an orange wire north and south of a small relay. You must unclip the circuit boards from each other. Look for a missing drop of solder on the back side of the board with the relay. You will find it underneath where the red wire connects. Mine ( looking through a magnifying glass) looked like a crater with a wire sticking up out of it. It had overheated and the solder dripped out. The joint is inadequate. I cleaned and resoldered it with a nice blob. Reassemble and check. I just left mine on the chair. Power on. Select bake, 300, start. You should here the relays click and after about 45 seconds you'll see the bottom element glow. After one minute the relay clicks again ant you'll see the top element glow. They alternate during the preheat cycle. Put it all back together and shove it all back in the hole. Hope this helped!

Is it the microwave or the oven that is not heating? If the microwave is not heating it is more tan likely the magnetron. If the oven is not heating it could be the element or the control board.

having the same problem, microwave works however oven does not heat up. The controls work, I can set the temp and bake, the fan turns on but the oven does not heat.

GE JKP86 Electric Double Oven. How do I find and replace the thermal switch

In my case the problem was the solder around the pins of the DLB relay heated up and melted away from the pin. I found this info on another post. I put more solder on and built it up to the top of the pin to provide more metal there.Update 8/27/2016I've found other similar problems, e.g. on a Bosch dishwasher. The symptom is solder is vaporized on relay pins. One poster said if the relay contacts wear and increase their resistance this will cause the pins on the circuit board to overheat and vaporize the solder. So if this is the case just adding more solder may only add additional time. The true fix would be to replace the relay to solve the overheating problem. Nevertheless it's been four years since I added solder and it's still working fine.I also had a problem like this with my Craftsman garage door opener. It was flaky- it would sometimes just blink and then stop (and it wasn't the obstruction sensor). When I took out the circuit board I found a poor solder joint. Some posters also said the pins on the circuit board connectors could fatigue and stop making good contact (in this case you have to bend them to make good contact again). Likewise the wall button/IR motion sensor started acting up and I found resoldering some pins fixed it. So loose solder or connector issues might be common.

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Checked the model no.and so the problem seems to be with two different parts not one. The problem that Microwave won't heat is caused either by a bad thermostat or a bad gas sensor. However, after reading your question it seems to be thermostat which is part#463 in this diagram. Another issue when the oven won't heat is caused by a bad oven temp. sensor which is part#253 in this diagram. Hope you understand both elements cannot be bad at the same time and so replacing bad parts will solve this problem. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Your oven model has a small control board that works both units. Since you had a problem with the microwave first, and then the oven, all the signs point to control board as the culprit. Here is a link tho the part you need.

oven will not heat up. microwave works fine. all oven will not heat up. microwave works fine. all the led light up fine. was working fine for the last 4 years. oven will not heat up. microwave works fine. all the led light up fine. was working fine for the last 4 years. checked the circuit breaker and it is fine. is there a thermal fuse i can check. where is it located

The Hz will definitely affect the clock because that is the basis for a timer,counting the Hz.I do not see your exact model listed at a site which I commonly use for looking at manuals,but there is one only a couple of numbers off(JPK90),and they are usually very similar.With a 50 Hz setting,30 minutes is actually 25 minutes of bake time if you are in the USA,which it appears you are.Since it was replaced,just about everything you baked was likely undercooked after the proper time.I believe Europe,maybe Canada too,uses 50 Hz and it may in fact be the wrong part.Rats.I went to geappliances.com and tried to find out the specifications for the part number you listed,which appeared to be correct :) but it would only list the part.I tried to be as specific as possible in searching for it.The lowest number of hits ended up being about 555.With each search,perhaps 5,I looked through about 8 pages and still nothing.Here is the best thing to do.Call whoever fixed it previously and ask for a supervisor or manager.If the person asks why,simply tell them briefly why and just be adamant about speaking to one.They should end up checking the part number for correctness and specifications and if they did use the wrong part,they should replace it with the correct one at no cost since you have already paid for it and it was their error.The part number you listed was about $160.You should either get some money back if the correct one costs less,or if it costs more,insist that they repair it free anyways,due to their error.I have done some work in this field and they should have no problems with your request if it is the wrong part.If they want more money for labor,you should not have to pay it if they are a good,quality repair center and if it is not GE themselves.Good luck,Greg

Have you checked the breaker box to see if a breaker has tripped? To reset it you would need to make sure it is fully off then turn back on. You can also check to make sure that the elements are not corroded and causing loss in contact. If the breaker is good and the elements are making good contact. You can check the element contacts with a multi-meter by removing one element and checking the power to the element at the back of the unit, just remember that this is a 220 volt system, so be very careful with the contacts. If there is no power registering it could be that one of the wires for the power to the elements has shorted out.

oven door locked during cleaning then would not unlock after cooling