20 Most Recent GE JVM1542 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

A relay sometimes gets bad connections inside and needs replacing. The door switches turn everything on and off, likeely one of the switches is bad

If keypad is locked, hold down clear button for 3 seconds to unlock keypad.

Is the light on?
Things that it could be.
Could be a door switch.
Or it could be a stuck fan relay
Or worst odf all it could be a bad Timmer Keypad board. Not worth fixing because they cost to much.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The problem is damage to the control circuit board. This damage is usually caused by removing or installing light bulbs without disconnecting the oven from the power line first. We regularly repair these GE / Samsung smart boards for this problem for customers from across the country for $32.50. We have an important file called "safety.txt" which you can find by doing a search for "microwave safety.txt" on Yahoo.com. It's important information to consider before proceeding. When the varistor fails, it will be shorted. That will cause the whole oven to be "dead". It's almost certainly fine.

If you have plug-in type watt meter, you can check the power draw of the oven when it is heating and it isn't. The magnetron is the primary power consumer of the unit, and by comparing the difference of power you can tell if it is the magnetron. Most likely your intuition is correct.

I assume you're talking about the hood fan which ventilates the cook top and blows air through the grille across the top. If so, it's okay to use the microwave with that not working, but if you boil something on the stove, an external fan is definitely needed to keep mositure from going up into the microwave controls. If the cooling fan INSIDE the microwave (behind the keypad) is not working, then you do NOT want to run it unit it is fixed. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

If you have Acrobat Reader you can see an exploded diagram of this model here: http://genet.geappliances.com/IPCNet/Dispatcher?REQUEST=IPCNETGETPDF&file=00000000/00018000/00018081.p01.pdf Ref # 110 and 115 are thermostats and ref # 27 is the hood thermal cutout. One of these devices is likely bad. You can order them via GE online at http://www.geappliances.com/shop/prts/ or via Sears online at http://www3.sears.com You should also be able to find them at local appliance parts stores. Here are the GE part numbers and prices: TCO HOOD REF# 27 WB27X10789 $11.50 THERMOSTAT,BIMETAL REF# 115 WB27X10506 $21.75 THERMOSTAT- BIMETAL REF# 110 WB27X10788 $12.75 Good luck.

The problem with your Display of your GE Microwave/Speedcooker is not the Digitron WB27X10856 display board? The flickering and ultimately failure over of the display is due to the WB27X10861 GE microwave control board which is a rebranded (LG 6871W1A417/6871W1A417A board) which GE then sells as a markup. The princple purpose of this board is to convert (i.e. rectify) AC to DC at various voltage levels needed by the rest of the microwave to run their control circuits in the microwave. A portion of the GE microwave is always on so the AC/DC supplly is always on. Overtime the electrolytic capacitors in a section of the board fail or degrade to a point they the DC suppy starts to produce ripples in the DC power supply which results in circuit board failures. These ripples produce deep spikes of voltage of 120 Hz that the other circuits are sensitive too. I just exmined a failed WB27X10861 board and measued the capacitance of each of the seven electroylic capacitors. Of the 7 capacitors, 2 had failed over time. The others 5 have degraded 10 to 15 percent but still within their design spec. The two that failed, C07 - 1000uF 25 V had a measured value of 207uF and the other C08 - 220uF had a measured value of 13uF. There was no visible bloating on either SAMWHA SG capacitor. Nomally, these capacitors are rated at 2000 hour at 85 degree C. 2000 hr is only 83 days, but since the voltage is less and the temperature is probably 40 to 50 degrees inside the capacitor these capacitors may last 10 years. They harder they work the shorter the lifespan. There are two solutions, either purchase a new replacement control board or replace the failed C07 and C08 capacitors within the failed board with better ones. You can easily buy 10,000 hour , 105 degree C rated capacitors for probably 25 cents more than 2,000 hour capacitor. Most people don't have the resouces to repair a board so buying a new board is their only solution. Don't buy a used board on ebay because a used board is probably on the verge of failure.

Take model # to searspartsdirect.com. They typically have manuals in parts listings.

You have a direct short to ground. https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

No, because it is an Air Fryer and Broiler as well. It would generate too much heat and no where for it it escape. You would need to use it on a counter as described or buy an over the range model.

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No Microwave Oven are just too dangerous. The switches and interlocks have to be correctly aligned for safety. Plus the inside has heart stopping voltage waiting to jump to anyone with a half inch away! https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

I would not risk it. Your better finding out why there is a burn mark there. The plastic film with the burn mark will be a specific one for microwave ovens. Basic peel and stick plastics could be the wrong type and it could also melt when the microwave gets hot.

I GOT the same issues. Can some one help?