Top 10 GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

That does sound odd! On one hand, I would suspect that maybe the door is getting slammed and that vibration may be contributing to the failure. But that would be much more likely for an incandescent bulb than a fluorescent type. Which is yours? You may have a bad connection on the socket which is causing some excess heat. Does the blown bulb look funny on the ends or at the connection? Assuming you're using the bulb your manual calls for, and the socket is okay, it may be a problem on the control board. Once you've digested this reply, let me know what you find and we can take it from there.

Since you say it's new, it should be under warranty. I would call GE (see your owner's manual) to get a local authorized service center. Then while you're on the phone with the service center, you can start it up and hold the phone close to it to demonstrate to the technician how loud it is. They should be able to tell you if it will be covered under warranty so you get it fixed free.

I had the same problem. All you need to do is put in your cook time first, then adjust the power level. So time cook, whatever # of minutes, power level, then # power level. Hope this helps.

First guess: thermosensor. This is a black item the size of a dime and 3/8 inch thick located on the wall of the oven inside the pad area. Test for continuity. There may be more than one fuse involved. Some of these units have weak relays (tell me about it!). You can replace the heat relay with a 12 automotive relay if you're good...if not, you'll have to replace the board.

I did two relays...and then needed a new board for other reasons on my own unit. Rebuilt boards are available online.

hold down the clear/off button for 3 seconds and it will unlock..

Seems you've posted on this several times, and I've answered them all, but I'll cover this one, too.

GE had a campaign (but not a recall, mind you!) covering several models.

Details are in their bulletin at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/ge_mw_mag_kit_bulletin.pdf

Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit. I just think the difference is that GE has stopped paying for the repairs.

The parts kit (that GE used to pay for) is part # WB27X10489 and is shown in the photo below.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

My microwave was totally dead. Things I discovered: 1) There is an easily replacable fuse accessed by taking off the top front vent cover (two screws on top, gently massage off) and then the inside plastic grill. UNPLUG before doing this! 2) Pop off two wires on either end of fuse holder for safety. Then pop out fuse and replace. For more extensive help, there is an evelope with a wiring diagram inside the case on the inside wall! Very helpful when diagnosing the surface lamp problem (I forgot to plug the ballast back in when I closed up the bottom).

This is almost always due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

Details covering some previous models are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

NOISY MAGNETRON TEST (c) 2009 William E. Miller [email protected]

One way to test it is to do the following:

1. Unplug the microwave or turn off its breaker.
2. Open the door, then detach the control panel as shown in the video at http://www.microwavedisplay.com and swing it down, but without disconnecting the wires. If you have any trouble getting the grille off once the screws are removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward. On some models there are L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent.
3. Plug the microwave back in.
4. Make sure neither you nor anyone else reaches in behind the control panel. There will exposed high-voltage connections.
5. Put a few cups worth of water in a microwave-safe container and place it inside the microwave.
6. Shut the door.
7. Run the microwave for about 1 minute or so on full power. (Time Cook > 1 > 0 > 0 > Start, e.g.)
8. If it does not fail, try it several more times.
9. When the water boils, change the water and try again.

NOTE: If your model does not have a door handle, you will need to unplug the oven and reattach the control panel to be able to open the door.

If it still does not fail, I would recommend that you put it all back together and keep using it until it fails more consistently, then repeat this test.

While a microwave should never be left running unattended under any circumstances (as your owner's manual will tell you) it's even more important when one is exhibiting a failure or any odd behavior. So play it safe and stay with it while it's running!

If you or someone you know want to replace the magnetron yourself, you will need to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.



You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.

Sometimes they will send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.

Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.

If it is not within the magnetron warranty, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

They are 1/4' x 28 x 3 1/4" and this link will take you to GE and a set of pdf instructions if they are needed.
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-40409-1.PDF

hELLO THERE
when a microwave quits heating but every thing else is ok normally
investigate these 4 areas

Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heat but you hear a loud buzzing or humming noise:
Power Diode

A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat and you will hear a buzzing noise. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.

• How to test a microwave diode.
• How to replace a microwave diode.



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A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating but you are hearing a buzzing or humming noise. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.

• How to test a microwave capacitor.
• How to replace a microwave capacitor.



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A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating, but you can hear a buzzing noise. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.

• How to test a microwave magnetron.
• How to replace a microwave magnetron.