GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

These microwave ovens have a series of door switches. One of yours has gone bad or a plastic finger on your door mechanism that pushes the switches is worn or broken off. They are commonly called NC or NO swithes some ovens have up to 6 of these working together.If you have no expertise in this field consult a repair shop. Please rate me
Comment posted on Jan 12, 2009 there are two types ,normally open and normally closed, NO NC . u have to check continuity on each one and each switch will have a diagram on the side showing its in use position. I hope this has been helpful

Your problem is a common one. When you see arcing inside your microwave, it's because of food or liquid left in the cavity or on the wave-guide cover:

• If the wave guide has any burn spots, replace it and clean the unit well.
  
  
• If the cavity has any burn spots, spot-sand it smooth and touch it up with microwave interior paint.
  

Note… If there are any burn holes in the cavity, don't use the unit-seek help from a qualified appliance repair technician.

I have the same problem. The left one burns out within a couple of hours use, the other one lasts a couple of months and is then gone. This pattern has repeated over 8 years. I replace them every now and then and then just go without until I get the urge again to fix it. Maybe smaller lower wattage lamps are worth trying...

bam out of PC to ovens. in 1 click.

Might be the power controller but equally might be the eht diode, transformer or capacitor or the magnetron itself. If you have the experience you can test for mains output from the power controller to the transformer but checking the eht circuit is best left to the experts as getting it wrong can be fatal. You will find plenty of information about this on youtube and other question/answer sites. Try an internet search...

http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-40537.PDF Download and see what the 1850 manual says

There are three microswitches When checking a microwave oven that seems to operate properly yet does not heat first check for 110VAC at the primary of the large transformer.

Your ventilation seals may be aging, but they have nothing to do with microwave energy leakage, (And microwave energy is not ionizing radiation anyway, so it does not cause cellular mutation or cancer) You should check your grease filters (if you are venting to the outside) or your charcoal filter (if recirculating). If you are venting outside, check your outside vent flap for proper operation, and check your outlet and ductwork for a bird's nest or mouse nest, etc. If you have other questions, feel free to contact me directly, because FixYa doesn't always notify us when there are follow-ups. - William E. Miller, AS-EET [email protected] http://www.MicrowaveControl.com Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide "Recycling by repairing since 1982"

Turn off the power before starting this process. If the oven is dead, the fuse is probably blown. Remove the two screws that hold the touch pad and control board in place to access the fuse. Once inside, look towards the back and follow the power cord that enters the rear of the microwave to the fuse. It should be a 15 amp ceramic fuse.

go to this link and you might see how to stop it from beeping.. microwave keeps on beeping after use it Google Search

I was not aware you could turn off the display, maybe it is just a bad display and you need to replace the board??!! Ive been repairing Microwaves for 37 years. i do not remember seeing one where you could just turn off the display.

Power being interuppted could be anything from a bad fuse , bad fuse holder, bad solder connections on the main board. Bad breaker in your panel. Start by plugging it into an outlet you know is on a different breaker than the on it is on now. See if it does the same thing. If it works ok, then problem with power to the other outlet. If it does the same thing problem inside of unit. PF is Power Failure, now we have to figure out why.

I can only toss you some ideas, but likely but not always, you might have what are called security screws holding the cover on the microwave - they typically have a little pin in the center and you need to buy a special tip to remove the screws including any on the side - then pull and slide the cover off the microwave - Needless to say with the power unplugged! Then you should take a close look even with a magnifying glass, at any of your connections - many are spade connectors pushed onto flat blade-like pins - you may find that you have an over-heated one, or a loose one. If it is overheated, you will have to cut off the bad connector, get a new one wherever, strip the wire(s) back and crimp on the new one. If the connector is simply loose, take a pair of needle nose pliers and close up the connector so that it goes back on tightly. Now this is where you need to (sorry to swear), but use common sense - plug in your microwave with the cover off, and try you touchpad to test whatever repair you did - If it is fixed, then unplug and put the cover back on and back to Zip-Zap and Ding Suppers Eric

The control panel module is different from the membrane. Unfortunately these modules themselves are usually very expensive, perhaps 1/2 the cost of a new microwave. Sorry.

Most or the ones I have seen just sort of lay in there at a bout a 45 degree angle. I can t say i have really ever seen one " snap" in place

You will be needing to take the whole machine apart to get to this part. Some models carry a caution that is very important. The magnetron can have a starter on it, a thing often called a capacitor. This item can carry a "charge" , which means it has enough "juice" inside it to hurt you very badly. You may need to "isolate" the capacitor to prevent it shocking you. If this is outside your frame of reference, you should get some expert help. God bless your efforts.

You likely need to replace the fan motor.

Sounds like you blew a device on the main board when you didn't unplug it first. The whole main timer board must be replaced to repair the unit. Pricey, sorry!!

I do not know your unit specifically but a lot of them you have to start by, slowly, from the inside of the door, lifting up on the choke that runs along the outer inside edge of the door. It looks like a plastic trim part about 3/4 of an inch wide. You slowly work around the whole door unit you get it popped out. a butter knife or steak knife works pretty well . I just use a small flat head screw driver The screws for the handle are behind that choke seal. Usually 2 Phillips head screws. The choke part just snaps in place and has no screws to put it back, just push back in place and you will hear it snap as you go. Be careful the plastic tabs are easy to break off

Wow! sounds really weird. Possibly Microprocessor on Main Timer board. No way to really diagnose other than substituting or replacing the main board. Unfortunately a bit pricey. Nothing else i can think of that would actually cause asterisks in the display. I really do not like to refer them, but may need to call GE since it is one of their units. Maybe they could give you some guidance. Mostly, over the phone, they just insist on sending someone out. So they can bill you more.