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Patton POH2520-U Oil Filled Radiator Heater - Page 3 Questions & Answers
I have only had your
Look you need to contact Patton Heaters directly and let them know about their faulty product. While you are at it give that son of yours a big hug and kiss and let him know how much you really love him. This site is people like myself giving helpful hints on repairing products we are not a part of Patton or are we affiliated with them. Consumers affairs may be worth your while as well, try Better Business too. You are very fortunate to have this out come.
What does it mean when
More than likely, the alarm is a warning that the heater is not sitting perfectly level, check to make sure that it is sitting level. Or it could be a carbon monoxide warning. Open a window, just slightly, and see if that fixes the problem. Also, the appliance could be overheating, which could be a problem.
I moved and took my
it will work as long it has the opens out for to get air..and is well sealed....the reason why it is used outside at the window is just cosmetic...do avoid its presence inside..but if it is powered and have a opening to the air outside it will work ..
Heater shuts off after about 5 minutes. Instuction
HEY< that could be the trouble, before you buy a circuit board cause it sounds like its doing its job. Take the rubber hose aloose from the fan switch and and while its starting, put the hose in your mouth to feel a suctions if not or a soft suction , then remove the hose off the motor while off and clear the end out with something that ,ll clean the opening out and connect the hose back and start the system again. T Y V M!
Can this unit be installed thru a wall with the sleeve/ box that comes with it? CW-XCI20AU
Obviously window and wall a/c units are not tradable, in spite of the fact that I don't have the subtleties of the distinction.
Alter Window units are intended to exploit the way that a window is a flimsy segment; vents outwardly of the a/c case can be near within part of the a/c unit, yet be outside (where they must be). This might permit the window units to be less expensive. Interestingly, a wall can be 6" thick or more; wall units should have all vents near the rear of the unit. BTW I generally felt that the vents in the side of a window unit were for admission of air at encompassing temperature to then be coordinated through the condenser curl at the back plane of the unit to be depleted out the back (presently more sweltering than surrounding), however as a matter of fact a portion of the side vent region may likewise be utilized for ousting air which cools engines. It may be the case that in a window unit the venting on one side is committed to admission of air for the condenser loop and the venting on the opposite side is for exhaust. This would forestall the hot exhaust air being pulled in the admission for the condenser cooling air.
Window ACs versus Through-the-Wall ACs
It's not difficult to think about window and through wall ACs, since they're comparative in cooling limit and size, yet through-the-wall units will generally be somewhat more productive in light of the fact that they make an impermeable seal in the room.
The significant contrasts between these ACs include establishment and venting. Window ACs fit through a window and don't need long-lasting establishment, while through wall ACs are really incorporated into the wall - making them well known in rooms without windows or for individuals who like to let their windows be.
Wall forced air systems normally just vent warm air through the rear of the unit, while window ACs vent from the sides and back. Hence, window and through wall models are not exchangeable (regardless of whether they're a similar size). Generally speaking, in the event that a window unit vents out its side, the wall will obstruct the vents and cause overheating. Select window AC models can be introduced through a wall, however provided that they have a slide-out case wall sleeve. Peruse more on wall sleeves.
3/25/2024 3:48:35 AM •
Heating &...
•
Answered
on Mar 25, 2024
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