Top 20 Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer Questions & Answers

Strange, I answered this earlier. I changed the category as well and that stuck but no text and image I added.. Yes you can. click Photos, Click upload, navigate to where the image is, click Open. we will also need the model. some help here.https://www.google.com/search?q=Inglis+gas+dryer+Thermal+fuse.

this doesn't have a board in it so you either have a bad timer or motor,i would think it would be the timer,try tapping on the timer with a screw driver or something light or wiggle the timer knob and see if it starts,also did you have this on timed dry?it sounds like the timer died and then somehow power went through it again and it ran,the timer controls how long the dryer will run so this is why i think it could be the timer,or a broken wire but try wiggling the knob and see if it starts.let me know thanks.

find the drive pulley and if the ribs fit the pulley then that is how it is on the drum

if electric? check ur thermal shut off and thermistor with a multimeter. does it run at all? if it does it wont be thermal shut off but may be ur heating element? is it gas or electric? Gas? 1. may need to check ur coils which regulate the flow of gas, ? 2. CHECK Igniter which ignites the flame, or 3. CHECK THE glow bar. there are also thermostats on the heating eleemt you will want to check with a multimeter. the thermal cutoff, the hi-lo thermostat and the element itself.

Did you pull the element out and test it? I think it is your heating element. Visually inspecting is never enough. Just hook it up to high voltage independently to ensure it heats. It will turn red hot.

Check your thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out fuse, two different fuses that can cause a dryer to run and not heat when open, or some dryers will not start when one of these has gotten too hot and opened....Usually caused by venting restriction of too much lint, common problem........... A open operating thermostat or the high limit being open are also possible........;. The other checks are live voltage checks, timer contacts, wiring, temp and internal motor switch......schematic is probably in back of control panel........ Takes some reading of a wiring diagram, understanding how to split the circuit ............Not for beginners.............Hope this helps...........do not forget to unplug dryer when doing anything on unit besides live voltage checks on circuits,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

There are 4 wires for a reason. The heaters require 220 volts and the white wire helps give 120 volts to the motor and control circuits. Altering these without any knowledge of electricity results in the control circuit and or the motor blowing up. Here in Canada and USA anyways

Check the coil for proper resistance. IT could be too low. Replace the coil the next time you replace the wire. The coil could be expanding and touching ground and causing excess current issue.

Hay Kirk , most likely your door switch needs to be replaced if that doesn't help test all three fuses for continuity . good luck APPLIANCES R EN

Did you check the fuse?Check the venting pipe, I think you have some problem with the venting

is the unit level, open the dryer try moving the drum around, see if the drum loose, there mite something in the machine that got caught on the drum some how and when it goes around it bangs, you mite try spinning the dryer without turning it on and listen to the drum and see if you can hear any thing hitting the drum or what is make those load sounds. if you cannot turn the drum manually you mite bribe a guy or friend to check it out for a beer or glass of wine, and if they down drink bake some cookies. good luck rod

It could be the heating element but do not assume it is until you check it. If the element is fine the limits on the heater housing might be tripped and if that is the case the vent needs to be checked for blockage. Birdnest, snow, cobwebs, and such can cause limits to trip. On an electric model the fuse mounted on the blower kills the motor but on a gas model the fuse kills power to the gas valve. I have a full page of dryer repair info and service manual HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

1) remove filter2) remove 2 screw from top of filter housing3) pop the top4) remove front panel5) remove drum and clean the dryer6) oil the rollers7) oil the idler8) place drum back with belt9) Insert idler in floor 10) install the belt by passing it through the idler and looping it onto the motor. Turn the drum a few rounds to make sure the belt is not twisted then re install the front.Here is me in my movie I made that shows how: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It is a simple process. Just use the same gauge wire and a spade to connect to the thermostat.

Hi gllippensSounds like you have a faulty timer, replace your timer and this should solve your problem.When replacing the timer, be sure to only remove and replace one wire at a time to not get confused.Please rate meBud

You must have a gas dryer. Assuming it is a gas dryer, the ignitor is working because she glows. the flame sensor is also working because the ignitor shuts down. The only other thing in the assembly is the solenoids which tend to work properly but short and die when warm, then when cool will work some more much later. very difficult to diagnose. Replace the solenoids and party on Amigo. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

is the blower wheel turning freely and all the time,if not replace it,they do strip out on the motor shaft,if the air is surging then if its not the wheel,then it still has to have a restriction somewhere else

Take a look at this video to troubleshoot your no heat problem.

Make sure you have 240 going into the dryer. If one side of the breaker is tripped it is posible for the dryer to run because the motor runs on 120 volts ac. The heat uses 240 volts. Next check the heavy red wire coming out of the timer. Remove it from the timer and attach a lead from an ohm meter to that leg on the timer. See if you can get a reading from any other leg on that timer. Move the dil to various spots on the timer and keep checking for continuity. If you cannot get a reading from that terminal to any other terminal on the dryer then you have a bad timer.I did a few homemade movies today and posted them on my youtube channel:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbez7kjzNic&list=UUKBjalPycKRmo4Mz9vRsydg&index=3&feature=plcphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoVmPvUG_7o&list=UUKBjalPycKRmo4Mz9vRsydg&index=2&feature=plcp If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The door swtch is a known weak point in the Whirlpool Inglis.