20 Most Recent Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

the best way to check a motor is right at the motor itself, disconnect the incoming wires and measure the resistance between the wires going into the motor, it should give you the correct resistance reading in your manual for the motor. If it was a ground problem in your motor it would be blowing the fuses or breaker, Also ensure that the motor turns freely, you may need to slip the belt off to check that

Just did this swap out - the trick to the Amana NED7200TW belt replacement is you need to do the belt idler threading from the REAR of the unit (unless you have the hands of a 5 year old!) However you still have to pull the entire drum from the front and if you are that far in it is recommended you replace the drive idler pulley. Both parts together are under $30. 1.Remove back screws that hold top on - slide it off. 2.Remove the plastic control panel - careful do not over stress the wiring harness 3.Remove the metal frame that sits below the plastic control panel - again watch the harnesses. 4.On the front of the unit remove the front panel - trick - there are two screws inside of the door that must come out and also you need to disconnect the small harness that feeds the door sense switch. 5.Now you will see a brace that holds the front of the drum - it's like an "H" on its side. Unscrew that and lift and remove the brace - the front of the drum is now free. 6.Presuming the belt is broken, you carefully lift the drum out. 7.Under the drum you will see the motor that drives the belt (and the blower on the front) 8.Next to the motor you will see the tensioner/idler pulley. Pretty simple to replace, use the new screw that came with the new idler. The new ones have ball bearings, will outlast the dryer. 9.With the drum out, put the belt around the drum, groove faced in. Suggest you take a little masking tape to tape it down in a few places to keep it in place while you jockey it around and do the threading. 10.Now, go to the back of the unit, there is a small vent access panel. Remove it, it has a long vent tube that is part of the assembly keep them all together, pull it all out. 11.Now with the drum resting in place, reach in the back to thread the belt - there are diagrams around that show the loop around the drive shaft and the idler, it requires a hefty twist of the idler - maybe 140 degrees from resting position clockwise as you look from the back to get it over the belt, but it fits.12.Now remove the tape and carefully and slowly rotate the drum to get the belt laying flat, work out any twists, groove down, and make sure there are no twists by inspecting the idler from the back. 13.You are good to go, reassemble.

That is actually a Ts error.

Thermistor Short Sensed

The Thermistor resistance is very low.
Check for:
- Clogged lint screen.
- Restricted vent system.
- Check Thermistor resistance.

Thermistor is Item #27 HERE


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Contact me I will assist you. I can send a manual

You might need a new display board (electronic timer ). Seems like the timer will not send the message for the dryer to stop when the cloths are dry

try looking at the moisture sensor strips. usually inside the under the door area. two strips that sense moisture as the clothes roll by. these may be broke, shorted or need replaced?

Please let me know if this works its a lengthy repair but cheaper then buying new.

try to look your model number up good not find your dry, check your old element make sure it bad an if you have a volt meter check thermerlruse

What you need to do is gather some information before you begin thinking of what to do next. Here are some things that I would want to know if I was in your position:1) On what basis did the repair technician come to his conclusion. By asking him exactly what diagnostic test, methods and supplemental information made him come to the motor being bad, you'll discover one of two things. Either the technician doesn't really know what the problem is and was trying to choose the most expensive part to deter having to do the repair and just collecting the service call, or that he was knowledgeable and his diagnosis was indeed correct and the next step would be to replace the motor. 2) Will the cost of the repair exceed over half the value of the machine?3) Are you capable of performing the repair, saving yourself a good amount of money that would be spent paying a labor rate?*****NOTE***** Changing the motor on this dryer is a very simple job that even the most novice of technicians could perform with the greatest of ease on average of thirty minutes. I say this because my question to you is did the tech that diagnosed this put effort into getting you to do the repair, or did he try to sway you away from it? If the latter of the two I would get a second opinion from a new company. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Just a question. Does your blower work. If your blower does not work it won't dry. Check blower belt. Mine broke and had no air blowing. Just a thought.

if your saying theres a motor running but the drum wont turn . then id say either the idler pulley has come off or drive belt has broken , these do go bad especially on heavy load machines

Mine was doing the same thing and I have replaced the Thermistor and it still acts like it done before. I am so over it! I was told it was the main control board but I don't know :/ I don't like the prices of them of what I have seen so far.

Amana NED7200TW Technical Information - ManualsLib

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Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour: Bad motor windings Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire. GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE