20 Most Recent Electrolux EIGD55H Dryer Questions & Answers

try putting less clothes in

Sounds like a bad motor does it vibrate the whole dryer, if so 99 percent chance you got a bad motor. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_54ae41aaaffbab00

No your vent is probably resticted

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101



tyu634

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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

My only thought is to look at the back of the drier. Check the hose coming out the back to the out side vent, and then run the drier with out the hose for a few moments. See if you have air moving then, if you have no air moving with out the hose attached. Your driers fan blades are ether clogged with lint or they have broken off some how.

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

Hi,

Yes you can back off to get to the required parts where the sock can get stuck. For a step by step to open and verify please follow the steps in the bellow mentioned article:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4698141_fix-washing-machine.html

Note till the time you donot get the sock out the machine will remain frozen .

Let us know if you were looking for something more else please accept the suggestion.
Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

Gas is always les exepnsive to run in the long run over electric. The gas dryer cost a little more upfront but you will notice the saving as well plus in a power outage you can still cook on a gas stove (light with matches) and an electric is totatly disabled. When buying a dryer they will have a sticker on it that tells you how much energy or $$ it will cost you to use in a 12mos peroid from low to high and then tell you where the appliance is on the list. Get and energy star appliance as they are more efficient then a non energy star and you can get tax credits for purchasing energy efficient appliances. this applies to fridge, stove, washer, dryer furnace etc.. http://home.howstuffworks.com/gas-vs-electric-cooking.htm

Hi, I assume that the drum spins OK but there is no heat. Most likely causes are:-
1) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint buildup. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
2) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.

3) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

4) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

5) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which needs 220 will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.

Thanks! mannu_rakesh