Whirlpool WED9200SQ Electric Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you have reached the point when the drum is out, and the blower is in front of you behind its housing it connects to the motor, you would need two wrenches to secure blower side stationary and rotate the motor rod the other way around to release it. Thank you from QuickFix appliances. www.quickfixappliances.ca

have you opened the cabinet of the dryer yet? Inside you'll find the tech manual. It'll show how to get it into diagnostic mode. Unplug the power first. I had the exact thing happen on my Maytag self dryer. It said that one of the line voltages wasn't present. After going thru the manual I knew the thermal fuse was bad $15. Since this was powering the motor it wouldn't spin and 2nd line voltage wasn't present. Replaced the thermal fuse, all the other sensors checked out good. it started like a champ, YES!!!. Saved some serious money. irvin

That depends on what is wrong with it. Have you checked your fuze box? It could be something as simple as that. It sounds like the heating element though, and I am not sure how much they are to replace. You'll have to have an appliance repair man look at it to know for sure. Sorry about your problem. Good luck, hope it's a minor fix.Good luckDon't forget to rate theseTanks

Take a look at the video below.

Mine did that and it was a therostat and the heating element

Here is a link to the part you need.

Hi debchasey...
Don't worry, if your husband is a DIY kinda guy he will do fine, its not that hard to replace the belt.
I will give you the information on how to change the belt on your dryer, and also provide you with a link to see all the parts and exploded views of your dryer.
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.

Note: This method works for most front loading machines.

If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:
http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Link to Exploded views and parts:http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=wed9200sq&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0

Hi ru9182...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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my whirlpool dryer duet model wed9200sqo, everything comes on but when i push the start but it just makes a sound like like it want to start but won't, would i need to put a new start switch in it?

Hi noelsix....

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

is it a noise like nails on a chalk board if so your heating element could be hitting the back side of your dryer and making a clicking noise or scratching sound does it heat and dry the same

Inside the dryer, under the top panel, should be a technical data sheet. The sheet lists the diagnostics procedures, troubleshooting advice and any error codes (audible or visual) and is located along one of the interior cabinet walls. I believe the error is related to either a door latch malfunction or thermister (heating circuitry) problem.

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

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Sounds to me like either the seals on the front and back of the drum are worn or the glides for the drum are worn and is causing the clothes to get caught between the drum and the usually the
front edge of the dryer. The worn glides will cause the gap that you mention.

yes there are limit devices located next to the heater assemble that you can test with a meter and should ohm out and if your meter beeps should beep at you and have contuinity...
if you do not have a meter you can by-pass thermostat with power off and made safe as a temporary only to test measure and see if unit will come on and heat then. they are just a switch but have a purpose so that unit does not over heat so DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT leave it bypassed or there is a potential for fire solely to test out if you do not have a meter....also test your heater with a meter should be able to read through it with a meter and have contuinity from one end to the other......good luck to you hope you get it fixed.....

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...It will help you determine what is happening there...Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noiseheatman101 Asker

Unless you open the dryer the actual position cannot be confirmed. But I suspect that the main switch line voltage be checked,If there is no loose connections in the connectors then must check the volatage on the motor on switch on. The motor can be the suspect.

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There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

I have the exact same problem. I'd appreciate some input also.