20 Most Recent Whirlpool WED9200SQ Electric Dryer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it could possibly be bad bearing in the drum support rollers in combination with lint build up

Dryer are pretty simple. The thing they need most is air flow. Remove the hose from the back, open the windows, and try a load of washing. If it works, airflow is the issue, blocked hose, turns to tight, vent not opening properly. Those are the three main reasons. If you google 'make model parts schematic', you may find that there are three or 4 heat regulating devices, cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat and thermal fuse being three common ones. https://www.partselect.ca/Whirlpool-Dryer-Thermostats.htm ..

suspect the door locking mechanism

So you have posted a washing machine model number and said you cleaned the dryer venting? That error is for the water level sensor.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

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Can only be a few things high temp fuse high limit thermostat failed element. VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fv2UqRUKnm0 Parts

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The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit ...

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motor was overheating need to replace

There are 4 Thermostats / Cut Outs / and high limit fuses in that machine. Test the old ones rather than just buying blind. There are videos showing how to test them with a multimeter. https://www.partselect.ca/Models/WED8200YW0/Sections/BULKHEAD-PARTS/?ModelID=1656403&ModelNum=WED8200YW0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=3OPLX5EN&Position=1&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Dryer&Mark=1 42 Thermostat, Internal-Bias (14)Part #: PS11746740 CAD$43.42 In StockAdd To Cart 43 Screw Part #: PS11742721 CAD$7.06 In StockAdd To Cart 44 HOUSING Part #: PS2372643 No Longer Available 45 DUCT-LINT Part #: PS11746341 CAD$112.94 In StockAdd To Cart 46 Housing, Slot Heater Box Part #: PS11746335 CAD$87.44 Special OrderAdd To Cart 47 Thermal Cut-Off with High Limit Thermostat (2)Part #: PS991443 CAD$66.05 In StockAdd To Cart 48 Thermostat (1)Part #: PS11746386 CAD$79.62 On OrderAdd To Cart 49 BRACKET Part #: PS990350 CAD$42.98 Special OrderAdd To Cart 50 Cover Part #: PS11746328 CAD$94.71 Special OrderAdd To Cart 51 Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal (5)Part #: PS11741444 CAD$29.84 In StockAdd To Cart ..

if voltage from switch to motor bad motor if no voltage possible bad switch or control board

Remove the attaching screws at the bottom and swing the cap up.

The sound comes from a tiny element on the control board. Its volume is fixed and can't be adjusted.

Doesn't make sense does it! The pipes and vents might be blocked at the back, but then it would get very hot and trip out on the hi limit thermostat.

Try manualsonline.

Maybe the belt wasn't wrapped around the tensioner pulley near the motor.

Possibly a defective replacement thermistor

Make sure venting isn’t kinked behind dryer and be sure you have good air flow all the way to outside

Checking the switch would be a good idea - doesn't matter how much continuity you have, it isn't going to work if the power can't get in there, go round and around and then get out again. Continuity checks are the most use when it finds something wrong but it isn't unusual to find ohm meter checks misleading when elements or other things are wired in parallel circuits. Continuity checks really need each part of a circuit to be isolated or disconnected from the others - the ohm meter is a good way to check components but sometimes not a good way to check out a circuit. Clearly for the sake of safety the ohm meter is the first device to reach for but when those checks are exhausted without finding a definite fault it is time to use the voltmeter and chase the power through the circuit to find where it stops... If you don't like the idea of that very much, sometimes the most useful tool is the mains tester screwdriver - a small screwdriver with a neon bulb and a high value resistor in the handle and a metal cap - the working voltage is always engraved on the handle so don't get it mixed up with a similar looking screwdriver for testing car electrics. When a terminal is live and the screwdriver blade touches it and your thumb or a finger touches the metal cap the neon will glow. These gadgets are safe, cheap and indispensable in the handy person's toolbox...

Check your dryer for a gas leak in he supply line.

Sounds like the heating element is bad saying it's electric dryer.