It could be a faulty switch, or a control panel. I would check the wiring first to make sure that everything is connected before I spent any money on it.
The heat and pressure sensor is worn out! Be ready to perform the below type of work to fix the old one. Generally what occurs is the units soldered connections on the main power board warm up as the system warms up. Thus, the loose capacitors, resisters, and diodes are causing the CHANGE when the system warms up. When metal contracts, it expands thus losing the connection needed for a solid connection. This process is normal after the units have reached their service life. Keep in mind that you can repair this but at the expense of time if you have never performed this type of work.
According to your service manual page 9 an F-90 is maximum oven door unlock time exceeded. Here is your SERVICE MANUAL
This video shows how to check the door locking mechanism: This shows how the electric oven high voltage portion of your oven works: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
The F-3 is a bad sensor. Check the sensor. 1100 ohms at room temp. If open, shorted to frame or out of speck it is bad. Sample picture I had on hand. Yours may be in a diff spot but at least you know what to look for. Video: How to check Oven sensor If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Click on link below then in the upper right you will see kitchen, laundry. Then under that you will see Welcome, sign in or register[My Profile]
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Click on the register to register your product.
Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer.
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Yes, this is most likely a thermostat problem. If you have tried every temp level below 400 and it will not come on until you reach 400 on the dial, then you most likely have a temp sensor switch/ thermostat problem.
I had to assume alot of things here:
1. It is an electric oven.
2. Once you get the oven to start at the magic number and try to dial down from there, the oven turns itself off.
3. It will start up as long as the temp is first set at 400 degrees or higher.
Could you please give the make and model of the oven and explain in more detail what exactly you want to do with the oven whether you want the stove top or the oven itself to turn on.
to get all the detailed instructions
just click this link directly http://www.applianceaid.com/selfclean5.html The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished.If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1)Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On theheat sensitivestyle of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a badlock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated*switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again. thanks.
