20 Most Recent Hayward 2HP Pool Pump Motor A O Smith Electric Pool Motor for 56J Frame - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Call the "Pool Center" with your pump model number and they will have the information on the capacitor you require.
24/7 Ordering - Call Anytime to Place your Order
Toll-Free Ordering: 877- POOLCTR ~ 877-766-5287

don't remember if i got to ya.. is your pool green ?

I tend to agree with the dealer. Unfortunately the price of $170.00 - $200.00 is probably going to be more cost efficient than trying to repair this one. It could be the armature is frozen and overloading the circuit. Could be a short in the power line, look for breaks or arch's in the line when you reset the breaker. Make sure the power lines are not touching anything wet and are on a wood or some other surface. If they are in conduit, than you may need to pull the lines out and check for a break. It is possible that water or some other element eroded the lines and they are shorting out. This is usually the cause of breakers popping. In case of a problem or clarification or my solution was insufficient, don't hesitate to post me a reply.

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nope sorry these are sealed bearings and wd will make things worse ! there is nothing you can or should spray in or around the motor ! the motor needs bearings and a new shaft seal, cost is around 75.00. if you fail to do the repair in a timely manor the motor can fail and will be junksearch for your local pool pump repair guy in your area .. here is how to remove your pump . hope i was of help j

Try this:

https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/manual18.pdf

Your valve may not have the winter notch but it's layout will be the same.

John

I WOULD THINK THAT THE WHITE WIRE IS GROUND AND THE OTHER TWO ARE LINES (HOT) HOW TO CHECK THIS ? THERE IS A 99% CHANCE YOUR 2 HP MOTOR IS A 230 VOLT MOTOR.. SO TAKE A VOLT METER SET IT FOR SAY 50 VOLTS AC, AND ATTACH THE LEADS TO THE 2 BLACK WIRES, SHOULD SAY AROUND 220-240 VOLTS.. THESE GET HOOKED TO A-B.. WARNING IF THIS IS A TWO SPEED MOTOR, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HOOK IT UP, IF YOU HOOK IT UP WRONG IT WILL SMOKE THE MOTOR ! OK YOU SAY HOW DO I TELL IF ITS A TWO SPEED ? LOOK AT THE LABEL IT WILL HAVE 2 RPM'S LISTED. IN THIS CASE CALL YOUR LOCAL POOL PUMP MOTOR REPAIR GUY.. HEY U , PRIME THAT PUMP AFTER ANY PUMP REPAIR !! NEVER EVER RUN A PUMP DRY... GOOD LUCK ,, NOW GO GET WET... Jay FLORIDA

your starter capastor has gone bad or got diconnected it`s look`s like round cylender 2 inch by 4 inch dimention`s or it could be an internal (inside the motor) depending how new the motor is

are you referring to heater to prevent condensation in the motor ? it should have a watt reading on the name plate to state that it does..say 50w or 75w or more . the motor should state, that it does have a heater, use the motor ID and search the web for specs.. so my answer is.... it might ... hope this helps .. jay the pool pump motor repair guy in longwood Florida .... leave a review or a thumb for your fav fixit guy

ALWAYS FREE.. SO IT SEEMS THAT YOUR NOT GETTING AIR, THESE BLOWERS HAVE FOAM IN THEM AND CAN ,AFTER A FEW YEARS GET CRISPY AND BREAK UP AND PLUG THE AIR PUMPS SUCTION PORT. THE FOAM IS USED AS A AIR FILTER AND A NOISE REDUCER , WHEN THESE BLOWERS GO BAD 90% OF THEM CAN'T BE REPAIRED ! = JUNK.. TO SEE IF YOU HAVE A RESTRICTION IN YOUR LINE OR LINES ,USE A SHOP VAC TO **** AND BLOW THE LINES IN AND OUT.. THESE BLOWERS ARE HELD IN USUALLY WITH ONE SCREW AND ARE EASY TO REPLACE ONE MORE CHECK 4 YA IS, THERE MIGHT BE A CHECK VALVE INLINE ON THE BLOWER , IT MAY BE BAD . BEST WAY TO CHECK IS TURN THE BLOWER ON FIRST , THEN TURN THE WATER PUMP ON.. HEY IF'N I WAS OF HELP GIVE ME A REVIEW OR A THUMB.. JAY YOUR LOCAL POOL PUMP WHISPERER IN FLORIDA

it sounds as if you may have something jammed in the impeller blades, if you have small kids, look for small toys (leggos, plastic wrenches, etc) stuck inside the input tube or the blades themselves.
PLEASE turn off power first and drain (if needed). the pump housing should come apart with a screw driver, but you MAY need tamper resistant bits and a bit driver. if no kids, then look for small debris like twigs or such ( I have even found bottle caps in some units that I've taken apart!!).

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

The motor is likely failing. It may be a small part such as the capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft to see if it is damaged, bent, or the bearings failing or seized. If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. *All of this assumes this is an older/existing installation that has worked properly in the past and is just now showing signs of failure. If this is a new install look at your line voltage versus the voltage the motor is set to accept. If feeding 115 to a motor wired to be on 230 you will also get the situation you describe.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Please post the model and serial number from the motor. The number you have is the part number Hayward assigned to the AOSmith motor on your pump. I'll need AOSmith's info to get you pricing on the correct switch. Do you need the stationary only or the stationary and govenor?

John

Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate, diffuser, and Impeller can all be pulled back away from the pump. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and you can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To get to the impeller, you need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under the thermal overload switch, or removing the capacitor for even easier access. Once you've locked the shaft, you can just unscrew impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. this screw will be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white ceramic, and black graphite surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Check the impeller with a long set of pliers to see if something is stuck in there. If so check your basket for cracks and be sure it is in correctly.If you have no other problems this is probably it.

Oil and heat, oil and heat.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor to the pump ... remove the bonding wire ... of course, unplug the motor. The motor will easily come off the pump. Note the innards to assure you know what is the top of the difuser.

I think you will discover the impeller is fractured. Remove the back cover of the motor. You may have to loosen and move the capacitor. Find two flats on the armature ... 7/16 I think ... put a wrench on the flats to remove the impeller.

Replace the seals into the pump when you reassemble. Try to not touch the ceramic surfaces of present.

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Lock the end of the shaft opposire the impeller and turn the impeller counter-clockwise as you look at the impeller. Some of them require a little 'convincing' in order to get them to spin.

John

hook up 2 lines to screws , the black wire goes to-A . the white w/ black tracer is not used. ta da ..your hooked up for 230 volts.. IF'N I WAS OF HELP GIVE ME A THUMBS UP ... Jay

There is a screw on the center of the shaft. you must hold the screw in place before attempting to remove the impellar. Use screw driver as back up. or if it is a nut use crescent wrench.

The Pool Tech

I think you have a failed start capacitor. Have your motor looked at by your professional pool supply.