20 Most Recent Mountain Plumbing AG600S Air Gap for Reverse Osmosis Systems Questions & Answers


One thing you can do that should help you without to much expense is to in stall a dual soft seated check valve directly upstream of your air gap. This should help quiet it down.
One other thing you can try if your R.O. system is a small under counter unit that has the r.o. membrane and filters mounted in a moveable unit is to turn your r.o. faucet on and tilt the filter unit forward at about a 45 degree angle. Do this at least ten times and see if that helps with the noise. I have seen several smaller units that have a automatic shut off valve that will chatter or cause other problems if this is not done. Hope this helps you. Thanks

Mountain... | Answered on Jan 12, 2011


there is a cloged line between the air gap and the disposal (if you have one) or the drain under the sink.
you will need to remove the pipe and flush out with water. this is usually a rubber hose. most of the time, the clog is at the disposal where the rubber hose connects.
you should be able to see the clog once you remove the rubber hose. clean this out ( I use popsickle sticks) once cleaned out, reinstall the hose and try your dishwasher.

Mountain... | Answered on Aug 10, 2010


http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/h2oqual/watsys/ae1047w.htm Treatment systems for household water supplies gives a great description for reverse osmosis systems. I am not familiar with the Maruyama system since I live in the states. After reading the above article you might want to test your water. Your system may be operating properly? To me it soulds like you have a water softner and flushed the salt out, and now you have the proper pellets? If your water is not very hard you shouldn't use too much salt. Building supply stores sell cheap water test kits. Try that, and if your water tests ok, and doesn't smell, and lathers up with soap sounds like everthing is working ok. Hope I helped

Mountain... | Answered on May 02, 2009


I think the concept behind the Radiant Floor Heating System is that Installed tubes or heating element, which contains water beneath the floor, which warm our floor. For more information about Radiant Floor system you can check this site.http://www.ps2i.biz/

Mountain... | Answered on May 11, 2015


I think the internet is the right place to search anything.http://www.ps2i.biz/plumbing-services

Mountain... | Answered on Apr 29, 2015


Unfortunately this sounds like more than a blockage. If this was a blockage water would not drain, maybe fill in sink or dishwasher etc. If water is coming from walls probably means it is leaking from drain pipe in the wall. Which would mean opening wall to find leak.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

Mountain... | Answered on Apr 24, 2014


If you are referring to limiting the temperature of the hot water to prevent scalding, then a tempering or mixing valve can be plumbed in between the cold and hot water lines. This type of valve adds cold water to the hot water and it is adjustable.

Mountain... | Answered on Apr 10, 2014


use a paper towel. if that doesn't work use a knife

Mountain... | Answered on Jun 30, 2013


(1.5ft)^2 * Pi * 30 ft * 62.4 lbs/cu-ft = 13232.4 pounds plus the weight of the pipe which will vary depending on the material of the pipe.

You can find the weight of the pipe if you know the brand and material as most manufacturers will list the weight per foot in their catalog.
30 feet has about 11.94 cubic feet of whatever material the pipe is made of.

Mountain... | Answered on Apr 07, 2010


Sometimes, when the problem is small or can be fixed by self but most of the time doing DIY is not very helpful as it can worsen the problem even more and then it becomes unrepairable. Don't take that much risk when you can hire the professional residential plumber NJ for the plumbing at least cost with the best services making sure the problem won't arise the next time..
https://allweekplumbing.com/residential-plumbing-nj.html

Plumbing | Answered 40 minutes ago


Put some air into the valve stem, once the tank is empty charge it to 10 psi then turn the water back on. If you get air out of the faucet, the tank is shot.

Plumbing | Answered 2 days ago


First turn the well off. Then run the water until it stops. Then check the pressure. It should have 2 psi less than when the pump turns on. If you have a 30-50 switch it would be 28 psi, 40-60 is 38 psi. Look under the switch cover and it will tell you what it is. If you charge the tank up (which has to be empty) and air comes out of the faucet, the bladder is blown.

Plumbing | Answered 3 days ago

Tip

Moen Positemp Shower Valve - Little or no Flow after several years


Moen shower valve bodies can clog internally, and there is a simple fix! 99 times out of 100 you will not need to replace the entire valve.
First remove the shower head and test for flow with the head removed..
Next replace the internal valve cartridge - available for free from Moen.
Next test for flow through the valve body AND through the shower head pipe elbow or arm and the vertical riser piping should be performed with the shower head removed, as those are often clogged.
You can also check for flow through the shower arm and vertical riser above the valve. To do this, twist the elbow so that it points upward. Using a funnel, see if you can pour a glass of water into that elbow and see if it flows nicely out of the front of the valve body (where the cartridge is removed).
On the Moen Positemp Shower Valves you must first remove the cartridge. If replacing the cartridge does not improve the flow, you should verify that you are getting plenty of flow to the valve body. Do this by leaving the cartridge out, stand back, and have someone slowly open the water main until you can verify that there is plenty of flow to the valve body. (Using cell phones makes communication easy) (You can use a towel or rag a few inches from the opening at the valve, as a water deflector to help you stay dry
If there is plenty of flow to the valve and if the cartridge is new, the only thing left is internal clogging of the valve body itself. This can occur over time with sediment accumulating in the tiny orifice connecting the inner diameter of the valve body to the valve outlet to the shower head.
Using a light you can examine the inner surfaces of the valve body while the cartridge is removed. Once you see or feel the roughly 3/16" HOLE in the internal diameter of the brass valve body this opening, and the passage from it is the likely suspect. This 3/16" opening connects internally to the valve outlet to the shower head itself .
The best cleaning tool I have found for the job is a 4" or longer piece of a plastic tie wrap smaller than 3"16 in width. Bend a radius in the end of the tie wrap and insert it into the small hole of orifice in the inside of the valve body. You should be able to slide it inward about 1 1/2" or more. The direction you want the tie wrap to travel is toward the rear or back of the valve body. Work it in and out 3-4 times and your obstruction should be cleared.
Reinstall your cartridge, and the clip, and turn on your water main. You should have much improved flow. After rinsing the shower head line for a minute, you can then reinstall the shower head.Bingo, hopefully you just saved yourself a $500 plumber's bill.( If you can't insert the tie wrap and get about 1 1/2" of insertion then you may have a blockage which may not be removable) (Tie wraps have small ribs or notches in them. When you bend the tie wrap to cause it to enter the 3/16" opening and get the desired 1 1/2"insertion - sometimes the tie wrap will be difficult to remove. This can be due to the ribs of the tie wrap catching on the 3/16" opening. You can slide you index finger inside the valve body and while pushing in on the tie wrap where it enters the 3/16" orifice - and pulling out on the tie wrap at the same time - it should come on out)To all you fine people who replaced the entire valves - sorry about that as it really was not necessary! Good luck to all the rest!
If your Moen Positemp pressure balanced single lever shower valve has Stopped Flowing Almost Completely, even after the cartridge and the shower head were replaced, and if the trick above does not improve the flow, there is a next step you can take if your are a fairly well skilled handy person.
The problem here is likely a very badly clogged valve body that is not serviceable - or at least that's what Moen thinks. So if you can't clear the output with the flexible piece of tie wrap material as described in the prior post, here goes...
.Before you go further, be certain that this is your problem if you haven't done this already: Remove the shower head. Twist the elbow so that it points upward. Using a funnel, see if you can pour a glass full of water into that elbow and see if it flows nicely out of the front of the valve body (where the cartridge is removed). If the water backs up in the elbow, you have a clogged valve body, for sure. Since your water may be off at this point, you can dip a cup into the back of any toilet tank as a water source)
At this point you have identified that you have 2 choices - 1) replace the complete shower valve or 2) perform the following procedure. For most skilled do-it-yourselfers the complete valve replacement is a good half day job, plus the cost of the new valve maybe $150, and you end up with a hole in the wall behind your shower. With my alternative procedure, you should be able to complete it in an hour or so, and the cost of the supplies (except tools) should be under $10.
Tools/material needed:drill, 1/8 drill bit, 7/32 drill bit, teflon tape, 1/4 20 tap, crescent wrench, 1/4-20 set screw or plug (preferably brass or nylon), coat hanger, small compressor, air blow gun attachment
You will notice the round hole in the bottom center inside the valve body. This is the outlet to the shower head. Directly below this hole, and just below the round opening to the valve body, you will see a small squared off area on the outside of the valve body. This squared off section is the passage way or port for the water output to the shower head. The flat front face of this channel measures about 1//2" square, and if you feel the sides of it, you can tell that it extends to the back of the valve body maybe about 1 1/4" or so.
To clear this channel you can drill into the front face of the brass valve casting body with a quality 7/32" steel bit. (You can make a pilot hole using a smaller 1/8" bit first if you like) Next use a 1/4 20 male tap and tap threads into the opening you just created. Using a coat hanger or similar wire, you can thoroughly clean out or dislodge any deposits inside the channel.
Next using compressed air from a compressor and a hand triggered blow off gunt, hold your index finger over the round outlet hole inside the main valve body opening, while at the same time forcing compressed air into the new tapped hold you just created. This air should dislodge any deposits and any water which remain, and they will forcefully exit above at the elbow at the shower head.
Using a good coating of teflon tape install a 1/4- 20 allen screw into the tapped hole, just 3-4 turns or until it's snug. You can also use a 1/4-20 brass or nylon plug if you can find one. To avoid corrosion on the plug or allen screw it's best to use one made of brass or stainless if you can find one. You can also use the threaded end of a nylon 1/4-20 bolt and cut off the head to make a plug if you can't find one. You can add you slot head to the end you cut off using a hack saw. Lowes and most hardware stores have nylon 1/4-20 x 1/2" bolts. Reinsert your cartridge, install the cartridge clip and the plastic knob. Install your shower head. Turn your water on, and bingo - you should have more water than you have seen from this shower in years!!!!
If it works for you , you just saved probably $500 you would have had to pay a plumber! Plus you have the immense satisfaction of saving a shower valve body that you would otherwise have had to trash.</span>

on Aug 18, 2019 | Plumbing

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