The red and black wires if ran correctly are the load lines(power). The white is neutral or ground. If its a 1/2 to1-1/2 hp motor connect the red and black wires to terminals #1 and #4. If its 2 hp use #1 and #4. If its 3 hp use #2 and #4. Connect the white wire to the green colored screw. A grounding conductor should always be connected under the green grounding screw, which is located within the terminal compartment of the motor. You can check the breaker for the wire colors, one should be black and the other red. The white wire should be terminated to the neutral/ground bar in the can.
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com. That actually appears to be part of the serial number, not the part number at the end of your post. What are you trying to accomplish? With a description of your terminal board and the current wire arrangement I should be able to tell you what you need to know. Another option would be to contact us through our site at www.arrowmotor.net and send a picture of the board. If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved! John
We have a Model 2801052103 Franklin Electric submersible pump, 1/2HP 230 Volt. It starts and stops when using water frequently. System is 30+ years old, could the well be bad?
IS IT AN ABOVEGROUND OR SUBMERSIBLE (INGROUND) PUMP. USUALLY THIS IS CAUSED BY A BAD CAPACITOR OR BURNT POINTS ON THE PRESSURE SWITCH. THE CAPACITOR IS EITHER IN A RELAY BOX AT THE WELL OR IN THE MOTOR CASING. HOPE THIS HELPS. JODY
If the problem is the motor you could probably get the data needed off the motor's brand label and find an equivalent one on harborfreight.com or something.
Plastic impellers and pump cases are great for circulation applications but tend to wear out in pressure and or dirty water applications. The space between the impeller and case gets larger as it wears until the pump just circulates water inside the case.
Pump selection is dependent on applications, with pressure, volume, suction, temperture and fluid to be pumped only a few of the considerations.
Check for restricted suction strainer and hose first, then look at discharge side for kinked hoses and other obstructions. Then open case and look for worn impeller and volutes, occasionally there will be something lodged in the impeller like string or plastic film. Replacing the impeller alone if badly worne may help but won't bring the pressure back to new pump specs, you will need to replace the volute or case too if they are combined.
I use cast iron pumps for pumping silt laden irrigation water and have to rebuild them every 5-6 years, My suction head is 3' and head pressure is 35 psi. frankly I expected better life from cast iron but have to take what I can get.
Question edited for correct spelling of maker 'Noen' to 'Moen'.
'Fix' as in it is leaking? Or tighten it down because it is wobbly, or something completely different?
Well, we can have a one on one seminar by the internet. I've been a pumpman for 20 years. I can share with you my experience (household pumps, suibmersible pumps, turbine pumps, gear pumps, piston pumps, dewatering pumps, mud pumps, trash pumps, mining pumps, solids handling pump, etc....) Just take your pick. Just send in your e-mail for assistance. God bless.
