Brand Remote Start/keyless/car Alarm Very Sleek - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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First replaced the batteries, you may find a CR2032 in there easy to replace then try before blaming any other components

check on the drivers door

Installations of this nature are usually reserved for professionals. However, get out your installation manual. You will also need two single pulse double throw relays and some diodes. First you will need to locate the ground when running.This wire might be labeled " (-) third ignition". The first relay for the starter will be wired like so: starter wire to 86, fused 12 volts to 87, 30 out to vehicle second starter wire, 85 to ground when running. The second relay will be wired 86 to vehicle ignition, 87 to fused 12 volt, 30 out to second ignition, and 85 to ground when running.

You need to be more specific if you expect assistance with your problem.

what brand is alarm? hood pin IS required,ground hood pin lead try to remote start If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/stephen_fa62cb6d50fe05e8

Hi,

Well done.....

Sounds to me like you've installed it correctly.

The only thing I could recommend at this point, is to scan your vehicle's PCM for OBDII fault codes - this will immediately identify which ignition circuit/component may have been disturbed during installation.

Cheers,

You need to adjust the tachometer sensing wire, it usually wraps around a spark plug wire so I can sense when the car starts. On my spy alarm, the wire was grey. Hope this helps.

This is the only site I know of that has a manual for the install
and user instructions for this alarm. This alarm is hard to install
but the manual shows you how to do it with diagrams.

http://userguides.50webs.com/spy_5000m.htm

The Spy 5000m is a great alarm but difficult to install.
You can get installation and user insttructions from this
site.
http://userguides.50webs.com/spy_5000m.htm

In your local shop - a single AAA is all the Spy 5000m remote fob needs.

When anything is "Negatively Triggered" this means that usually that, that Circuit, has a resistor of say 10K Ohms, to the Positive Voltage rail. To "Signal" that it is to be "Active: the Circuit is "Pulled Low" by a short circuit to negative/ground. This then gives a negative going signal, that's detected, and the Action performed.


Now usually any Inputs or Outputs have these Pull Up Resistors on the circuit board, and the simple grounding of the wire will "Switch" the Input. So to operate this we would install a switch, with one end on the wire, and the other end wired to the Negative/Ground, when the switch is tripped, it puts a short circuit on that Wire, and in turn, it will operate whatever is operated when that particular switch is tripped.

Most Often an Output is "Tied High" or left alone, as usually the "Logic: of that wire, High or Low, +Voltage or -/0 Voltage, is handled by the electronics internally. You can tell this by measuring the Voltage to earth when the unit is powered up, but not connected. High Out/in puts will have a +12 V voltage on it, or 0V on it. Toggling this line the "other " way activates that wire. If NOT used it is usual to "Tie them high" unless told otherwise.

All/Most Inputs and Outputs aren't needed for actual operation, and can be tested by Tying Inputs & Outputs high or Low, to activate or test a function...

A flame out relay, most likely wouldn't be used, unless you were wishing to monitor for Flame etc. (Sometimes used when running nitro)

Also I find a light bulb on the end of a pair of wires invaluable when testing inputs and outputs, using a small Bulb, you can use it to see an Output or to Trip an input and a visual indication is a lot better when testing

It seem that you do have a good understanding of whats going on, hope i haven't confused you too much and have been of some help..

There could be an issue with the antenna. Is it mounted on the windshield? If so, try moving it to a different location. You didn't mention the year, make, model of your vehicle but, some cars have a filament in the windshield that interferes with RF signals.

1997 Chevrolet Suburban Car Alarm Wiring Instructions
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Red
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Purple or Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Pink
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Pink/White Or White (This wire must be connected as ignition #2 for remote starting.)
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Orange
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Brown
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch Or In Drivers Kick Panel
Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Light Blue (Type A)
Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: In Either Door Harness
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): White (Type A)
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: In Either Door Harness
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Purple
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Domelight Supervision Wire: White (-), Requires Relay
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Trunk Release Negative Wire (-): Black (+) Or Black/White (Requires Relay)
Trunk Release Negative Wire Location: At Hatch Release Switch Or Low In Drivers Kick Panel
Horn Negative Wire (-): Black
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): White
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At ECM. The ECM (electronic control module) is located on the driver side inner fender.
Wait To Start Wire: When hooking up a remote starter on a diesel, you will need to program in the 5, 10 or 15 second wait to start timer in the installation manual. On some vehicles the wait to start light on the dash is not a true (+) positive or (-) negative and the wire from the remote starter will not work.
Wait To Start Location:
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): N/A
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

I?ll been trying to find the MANUAL of this new car alarm but I couldn?t so if you send it to me I probable will help you.

go to a dealer

Forget the advice on how to steal a car. It's pointless and does nothing to answer your question. I suppose alicantecoli is proud of his abilities (I used to be too, but I don't do that anymore), however he is a fool if he thinks a 2-Way alarm is useless. While it may only take him minutes to disarm the alarm (waaaaay too long), with a 2-Way system & GPS tracking it would only take me seconds to find it again. Or you could use the silent alarm feature, allow the car to be stolen and immobilise it in the middle of the road. Beside all of this, a simple set of relays properly wired to monitor the alarm system power status can turn those few minutes into an hour or two. Anyway, to your question.

The install manual for the (rebranded) Spy 2-Way Car Alarm is a pathetic chinglish translation printed on a single sheet. It would do you no good unless you have some experience with electronics, and a working knowledge of your car's wiring. That being said, here's the wire colours for you:

6-Pin Connector:
Purple : A/C
Brown: On
Yellow: Start
Red: 12v+
Black: 12v-

12-Pin Connector:
Central Locking - it depends on the type as to how you wire it...
Yellow: Nc
Y/Black: No
White: Com
W/Black: Com
Orange: Nc
O/Black: No

Brown: Flash Lights
Brown2: Flash Lights
R/Black: Trunk/boot release
Red: Siren

8-Pin Connector:
Red: Window roll-up
Green: Side-door + trigger
Blue: Side-door - trigger
Yellow: Engine cut-off
White: Acc
Orange: Foot-brake
Purple: Handbrake
Grey: Start-sensing

2-Pin White: LED
2-Pin Black: Temp. Sens.
3-Pin White: Shock Sens.
3-Pin Black: Microwave Sens.
These four plug in in this order: 2PW, 3PB, 2PB, 3PW

Inside the unit (under the sliding cover on the top) there are three jumper settings: Elec/Pneu CL, Lights Flash/No Flash, Auto-arm/No auto. The first of each pair is the default setting.


Hope this helps. That, honestly, should be all you need. If you do need more info, then please DO NOT TRY TO INSTALL THIS ITEM YOURSELF. As it says on the manual, "Install the system by a professional people."

I understand how important sound systems are I own one myself. My advice to you is to see if you can get new batteries for the remote. It may have gotten stuck in antihijaking mode when the remote last worked. If this doesn't work try consulting the dealer which you bought your system from.