Roland Juno-D - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have you tried the pedal straight into the amp without going thru the Roland?

Does the sustain pedal turn on with the foot pedal or is it a separte stomp switch to turn it on?

The information is in the manual. You can download a copy here- JUNO Owner Manual JUNO Manuals Support Roland

I don't have any of that gear, but check that an option like "note on/off" is turned on in the MIDI setup menu on the Juno-D. Also check in Logic that it's midi is setup right. Logic could also be receiving sustain pedal MIDI info from the Juno. Anyway, that's all I got.

Oh great... WORSE thing you can do is to spray in Deoxit or Blue shower contact cleaner inot pots or faders!!!! It destroys the lube on the resistance element !!! The ONLY place to use those products is on metal switch contacts.

You have ONE chance to try and restore it without replacing it...

Go to Home Depot and in the electrical dept find a can of CRC226 (about $2.70 Bluish can) Use ONLY this product CRC226 as there are other CRC products there that are NOT applicable to this problem...

Now with the spout flush this down where the other cleaner had been put and work the control... Worse case is if you can't get enough into it you might have to open the case to get at a place you can spray into the pot where the lead wires go into it...

I use CRC226 to restore volume and gain pots in many guitar amps that become noisy. Usually I do it from inside the amps where I can get to the slot where the leads go into the pot. The product is for electrical stuff and is a water displacer but not gunky like WD40... never use that product in controls or switches... it is essentially fish oil. CRC226 is also goo to protect tools from rust.

I hope you can fix your unit without replacing the pot...

First though, flood a bunch in and then TURN the keyboard upside down so the CRC226 floods over the resistance element inside the control and work the control.

In case you need to replace the pot here is the info and part number from Roland.:

5 02455234 POTENTIOMETER 12M/M ROTARY POT. EVJY15F02B14

Here is an Avnet catalog page but they only do large orders of 1200 which is 1199 more than you need.

http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController?action=products&term=EVJ%252DY15F02B14&Nn=25&cat=1&N=4294609562+100257&langId=-1&storeId=500201&catalogId=500201&hbxSType=Within+Search&x=21&y=4

The pot is a Res POT 10K Ohm 20% 1/20W 6mm Pin Snap-In It will be a "B" taper audio type.

Here is link to your service manual for the Juno D:

http://elektrotanya.com/roland_juno-d.pdf/download.html

Check the power adapter at the coaxial plug end that plugs into keyboard- is there power there? If so, is the socket on the keyboard loose at all? If so- the socket may be broken, If there is no power there, you either need a new power supply or you need to open it up to see if it is just the fues in that supply that failed. If the plug inserts snugly as it did when new and it dopes not power up, the issue may be the power switch on the back- it may have dirty or corroded contacts- cycling the switch on and off several times rapidly should clean it. If it still does not power up, there should be a fuse internal to the keyboard that would require you open it up to check it. If it is not under warranty, this is not an issue- if it is under warranty, it is something that should be checked in the shop.

Take it in for repair. There may be a broken line for the velocity sensing of that octave of keys that is causing the velocity to be sensed low. The repair is NOT DIY if this is the case.

Roland requires a pedal that is normally closed, open sustains. MOST pedals work the opposite. SOME pedals you can open and rewire... but not all can be.

Did you clean these contacts with ONLY isoprophyl 99% alcohol and Qtips? If you used another product you may have spoiled the contacts. Also did you clean the circuit board where they contact with the same product?

If you used another cleaner, best to redo your work... quickly... Contact cleaners such as Deoxit and Blue shower destroy this type contact.

Probably defective switches... Take in for repair. Iwoudl NOT recommend DIY for this particular problem.

The manual is here, in .pdf format:

 

www.rolandmusic.ru/getfile/shop/117/E-16_english.pdf

 

 

The key contacts have become contaminated. Disaasemble and find the contacts under silicone rubber domes. They are typically black conductive rubber pills, two per key. Clean them and the circuit traces they press against under them with ONLY 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q Tips GENTLY. Then reassemble and test operation.

The name for the notes that don't stop playing is "Dreaded MIDI Drone". It is caused by multiple note on commands and lost "mating" note off commands.

Also read "c." on page 80 regarding buffer length and "choppy" sounds.

You need to turn off the echo of the MIDI that sends the signals back to the Juno. When near simulataneous MIDI signals are mixed the decoder can receive "partial" messages that re-trigger the notes and then miss the note off commands. If you can't find the setting in the software, disconnect the input to the Juno MIDI while recording it.

Without knowing what brand headphones you have it is hard to know what to advise... HOWEVER if your headphones have a small plug (1/8 inch) you must use a STEREO type 1/8 to 1/4 inch adapter. If you use a mono, that will short out the output of at least one side.

Answer:
Before i give you the right solution, i have to say that i have posted the answer to FIX the problem of all of the contact problems, people writing in how many of their keys are not working. And the post that they are showing is one that says to clean the contacts. That will not work.
Ok,
the answer.....
You can purchase a kit called Rubber contact kit here: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-3890&cid=prodCrossSell
or
Key contact Kit:
http://www.oaktreeent.com/Roland_Keyboard_Parts_Units.htm

These kit are made to re-coat the contacts on the keys. It will bring your board back to brand new condition and last as long if not longer than the original coating.
Also can be used for any rubber contacts like remotes or game controllers. etc.
This will work and i did mine after numerous times of taking the keys off and cleaning them.
I hope this gets out to all of you that are having the same problem.
Good luck

just a little protoleum jelly will do it

TRY GIOVANIA.

The velocity is usually sensed by having two contacts for each key. The contacs are usually a conductive rubber pill or sometimes a ring around another pill that press against traces on a circuit board under the keys. You need to clean both the pills and the traces with ONLY 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q tips. These are usually in "domes" of non-conductive silicone rubber under the keys.

Be careful of the cables when you open the covers of the unit.

The key contacts need to be cleaned. They are usually conductive rubber pills in silicone domes that get pressed onto circuitboard traces by the keys. Disassemble to get at the contacts. clean ONLY with 99% isoprophyl alocohol and Q tips. Clean both the pills AND the circuit traces they contact.

Be very careful of cables when opening the unit. Document where all the screws go and their length and threads.

If you have the version 1 cable you need to download a driver. The details are at this link:http://www.cme-pro.com/en/news-detail.php?news_id=105