20 Most Recent Honda 25cc 4-cycle Mini Tiller - Page 2 Questions & Answers

With one screw you can adjust the idle speed, and with the second, located under the carburetor you can adjust the running or load speed.

If it is heavy grease and not a 90 weight or better gear oil, you can pack it full. Use solvent and pressure to get all the old stuff out.

If fuel sits in the gas tank 3 months, the fuel deteriorates and it gums up the filter in the tank. You need to put stabil in the tank. This has happened to me over and over. It is best to dump out the gasoline if you don't use the tiller within one month. Some people who use chain saws commercially dump all the gas out every day and start over the next day. The symptoms are the tiller won't run at high speed at first, then as it gums up more it won't run even at low speed, then becomes hard to start. The gum is hard to see. Pull out the gas line to get to the filter and change the filter. Filters are only 3 or 4 dollars at hardware stores.

Hi thermo259, sounds like the high speed adjustment is lean, find the high speed screw and turn it counter clockwise 1 half turn and see if that helps. Should cure it.

You can buy parts for this from www.petessmallengine.com I had to replace the tine shaft w/worm wheel assy. This is usually the weak point in the transmission. The worm is made out of brass.

I had the same problem. The gears inside the tiller housing are seized. I had my brother take it apart and that's what he saw. He cleaned it up really good (which un-seized the gears) then repacked it with some really good grease and slapped it back together. This thing is working like a charm. The repair shop said I'd be better off buying a new one for $300, yeah right..lmao!!

Ok I have r Royobi Tiller (30CC Gas) And last year it ran fine after rebuilding the Carb. This year it was "hard starts" Idles fine, (Tiny whisps of blue smoke in exhaust with correct ratio) Even seems to run better with the choke "on" but still...at idle only. as soon as I touch the throttle...its bogs down in tune with how much gas I give it. Little throttle? Little bog down, Little more throttle? Almost stalls, a normal throttle rev? it stalls dead! Then starts right back up again in 1 pull and idles fine again!? WTF? So after cleaning a clean carb again, (twice) and seeing no change I thought I'd go look at the original diaphragm and compare it with the rebuild kit diaphragm (which is the one in the carb.) And guess what? The replacement has a larger rivet by a factor of "2". So basically it was flooding the carb, I bent the needle tang down, better but no cigar. But I could rev it half way now. A second disassemble to bend it yet a bit further and Vrooom vroom vrooom ****! So check your needle valve even though you think its 100%. (Especially if you rebuilt the carb with a kit!)

Id say if its that new I would return it .Otherwise was it ever stored upside down or was it laying on its side Its unlikely its a air filter issue with that low of use but you may want to check there to see if the oil is being siphoned up thru the breather line in the air cleaner area. lf the engine had been ran dry initially then there could have been damage done to the cylinder walls and the oil could be passing what is left to the piston rings,if this is the cause the unit would need to be overhauled .

Hi Tony.Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.Also be sure to check and clean your spark arrestor in the exaust,if you have one installed on your engine. Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT. Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it. Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment. Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture...too much oil as it can cause hard starting and excessive smoking.If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc. When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Note:The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.Normally there is a small indention in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate me Bud

I have the same FG 100 tiller with the same problem. I did replace the carb with a brand new one and still can not get full RPM. It does try to go to full RPM, but drops back. I even checked the transmission and clutches very thing works very well.