Polaris Pb4 - 60 Booster Pump - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Has this pump worked at all -pumped water?
When it's running for about a minute, is it pumping water?
Is this a self priming pump or do you need to prime it?

PS-4280 is the new Seal or the direct replacement by Jandy #R0479400 Makup is Viton, which is much more durable. the 1000 has proven to be problematic.

You're looking for US Seal number PS 4280, Also Jandy # R0479400. The 1000 seal has killed more pumps than can be counted.

Usually when a polaris booster pump hums it means 1 of 2 things; either the starting capacitor needs to be replaced (its located under the black hump on top of the motor) or the pump is bad. Most likely the starting capacitor needs to be replaces. This is where you should start since the capcitor is only $20-$30. Get a new capacitor from a local pool store, shut the power off to the motor, remove two screws on each side of black hump on top of motor, remove two wires from starting capacitor and install wires on new capacitor, replace cover and turn the pump on. If that doesn't work you will need to replace the motor.

if this is for your polaris booster pump they all have to screws to attach the wires if you have 220 volts it won't matter which wire goes where the longes the pump is rated for 220 volts if you have 120 volts pump is the same just make sure your wires are for 120 volts it won't meter which wire goes on which side just make sure you use L1 AND L2

I think Polaris should refund the purchase price on these pumps. I changed the breaker, the whip, and upgraded the outlet (using 110). The dealer exchanged it for me, but would not give me a refund, and I had the same issue with the second motor. I used a Hayward 6060 pump as a replacement. Everything works fine.

I am not sure if this will help you out any, but here goes: Line1 & Line 2 are your Hot Power Wires coming into the motor. It does not really matter which wire goes to which post of the motor. This will remain true if you are bringing in 110-115-120 (these are all the same, people just refer to them differently) which also is referred to at times as "Low" voltage, and the same goes for 220-230-240 (again, referred to differently) which is referred to at times as "High" voltage. Whether bringing in Low voltage or High Voltage, the wires you bring in will number only three:

• Ground
• Hot
• Hot (potentially Hot)

Low Voltage (115) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire = Line 1. Normally Black
• 1 Potentially Hot Wire = Common/Nuetral Line 2, normally White
• Ground/Earth = Normally Green

High Voltage (220) will have:

• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 1, Normally will be same color as Line 2 or Black/Red
• 1 Absolute Hot Wire - Line 2, Normally will be same color as Line 1 or Red/Black
• Ground - Green

In either of the above voltages, it does not matter which wire goes where, as long as a Hot wire goes onto Line 1 and the other "Hot or Potentially Hot, if 110", goes onto Line 2. Do not put a Hot wire anywhere else and Do Not put a Ground wire on either Line 1 or 2! Most Motors are coming out of the factory wired for High Voltage Set up (220), so you will have to move some wires or a terminal block, to set the motor to operate at "Low" voltage (115). These motors are "Dual" Voltage, they have the capability to run either 110 or 220. But they don't magically know which voltage is being supplied. Good Luck

plastic bag with a few socks in it, can be used to block the skimmer plumbing, if the pump is lower than the pool ! if not it will stop draining after the filter emptys

They changed the design of the pump a few years ago when Zodiac bought out Polaris. Re-plumbing isn't that hard to do, but if you are not comfortable with it a pool tech or handyman should be able to do it for about $60.

what kind of booster you want? we supply vacuum brake boosters. check here ,may can help you. http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/151224928/TOYOTA_HILUX_Power_brake_booster_BBT.html

The motor bearing on the pump end may have failed. Looks like this pump cost about $200 so having it inspected and repaired may be close to that. Unless you know someone who works cheap or you have some mech abilities. Here is a link to an exploded assembly parts drawing.http://mypool.com/images/parts-diagrams/Polaris-PB4-60.jpg

One of those wires should be green (ground wire). The two wires that are not the ground wire go to the two terminal posts, either way, and the ground screws directly to the motor housing above the terminals. Should be a green screw there. Was this electrical used on a 2 speed pump before?

if it shuts down then it most likely is a bad motor. If the voltage is properly wired to the motor then the motor is bad. Sometimes new items turn out to be bad out of the box.RodUS Parts Center

If unit is operating satisfactorily otherwise, the check end of sweep tail for missing orifice tip. Without it tail won/t sweep. Also check adjusting screw. Out - more tail flow In - less.

Check your in line screen and wall fitting to make sure they are right. Sometimes the over pressure button on the wall fitting will blow out.Also, your local pool store should have a pressure stick they will lend you. It connects the end of the hose where the Polaris would be. You should be getting a least 28 psi. If you are getting less, you may have a clog in the booster pump's impeller. If you have that or more, the problem is internal to the Polaris. Verify that the backup valve is working properly as well.

Late answer but might help someone else out. There is a nut molded into the impeller. If the threads are stripped or damaged the motor shaft will spin and not move the impeller. You'll have to take the pump apart to diagnose.

If the device that tripped is a ground fault circuit interupter (GFCI) breaker or receptacle then it is likely caused by 5mA or more of leakage current to ground within the motor. If what tripped is a circuit breaker then there are likely shorted turns within the motor. Usually either of this issues requires a new motor.If you are not wanting to turn wrenches yourselfthen my best suggestion is to bring it to Leslies Pool Supplies and they oftencan put it right for the price of the parts while you watch (they might not have some parts in stock).I hope this helps.

It sounds like you could have some debris stuck in the impeller on this pump. This is a common problem and anything that gets past the pool filter can end up stuck in this pump.

I assume you are talking about the flexible hose that is connected with a threaded collar and clamp the hose to the fittings.This can be caused by vibration, warn parts, high pressure or collar not tightened sufficiently. If the parts were installed with the previous pump then they may be worn. If you tried replacing the the fittings then you may want to change the parts to PVC fittings and piping instead. About half of the booster pumps I have seen were connected using PVC piping. I hope this helps.

With a new volute the most likely causes for low pump flow is a restricted return line, a restricted suction line(or air leak), or there is something wrong with the impeller in that order. There is a filter screen in the return line that can cause the return line to be restricted if it is plugged. It is either in the wall fitting or in the tubing system close to the wall fitting. If it is dirty it means that debris is getting into the system. Typically an early indication that a grid in a DE filter has a leak in it is a plugged cleaner filter screen. The speed of the motor could be causing the problem but this is rare without causing an over current condition in the motor causing it to shut off. My suggestion is first check the return filter screen. If it is dirty then clean it out. Before connecting the return hose start the pump and check the flow by reaching down and manually putting your hand over the water stream coming out of the wall fitting. Turn off the pump and connect the cleaner hose without the filter screen installed. Disconnect the hose from the cleaner and hold the end of the hose while someone turns on the pump. Water should come out of the hose at a high rate. Next install the filter screen and the flow coming out of the hose should be about the same. Now try connecting it to the cleaner. I hope this helps.