To convert the heater to natural gas you will need to change the orifices in the gas unit to natural gas. I am assuming you now have it on LP gas. Hope this helps. You should have someone who knows to change the orifices over. Most appliance parts dealer carry them.
Fusible link or the Roll out switch are one and the same...
if it burns out, or provides 'Open Circuit', then you had heat or flame exit the front of the heater instead of up!
This is a problem that needs correction.
Most common reason, Sooted Heat Exchanger / Tube Bundle.
dissassemble and clean it - not with a brush!!!
2nd possibility, especially if outdoor installation is a 'Downdraft'.
Don't just replace rollout switch - FIX the reason it burned out!
there should be 3 heat sensors on the unit. Incoming water to decide if it needs heat, outgoing water, and a sensor on the burner(flame). the in and out sensor should be behind a panel near the inlet and outlet pipes. The burner sensor is more tricky usually near the igniter or below the heat exchanger inside the unit.
check to see if you have proper gas pressure at unit most people think its the unit but mostly it is too small a gas line or too small gas meter call gas company
ROL is a failure code for Roll Out Fuse. This is the ceramic tear drip shaped piece in the lower left side of the cabinet. There are a few reasons this may have tripped but it is almost never a failed part but rather a symptom of a larger problem. The possibilities in likely order are as follows;
1. Sooted heat exchanger from a lack of adequate fresh air or gas supply.
2. Spider web blocking one of last gas orifaces.
3. Down draft through heater (indoor application could be improper venting).
4. Bad wire or connection between fuse and pc board.
Do you mean the gas? There is no fan.
The first time when we turned this on, we needed to shut everything off (except for the gas) including the power at the breaker. There is an internal safety device that needs to be reset before it will operate. Then turn it all back on in this order, the breaker, then the unit. That worked for us when we were having an issue with the unit.
It sounds like your ignitor may be out. Everything else is good in the safety loop and the heater wants to fire. The last step in the process is the ignition of the main burner. Are you hearing a ticking sound? If not the spark is not being produced.
make sure gas supply is on and you have adequate gas pressure make sure you have good flow a plugged filter will not open the pressure switch make sure ignitor is not shorted or open should ohm out at 78 ohms
error code should be inside heater make shure you have adequate gas pressure also sounds like bad flame sensor when flame sensor doesnt sense flame it will shut off after 7 seconds
It may be due to gas "pooling" before it ignites. Check that the pilot assembly is correctly positioned, and the burners and heat exchanger are clear of soot and debris.
Whatever the cause, orange flame certainly indicates insufficient gas supply. Make sure your pipe diameter meets minimum specs for the distance to the meter.Assuming proper plumbing and water column, I would suspect that the gas valve may not be opening completely, or you may have water or blockage in the gas line or the screen on the gas valve.Something is preventing enough gas flow to the burners, Wish I could be of more help.
Check your "unitherm governor", it's the thermostat that allows some water to bypass the heat exchanger. It looks a lot like a car t-stat and is located in the header where the plumbing attaches.It sounds like most of the water is bypassing your exchanger.That may also explain why the hi limit keeps kicking the heater off, because the water in the exchanger is not moving through fast enough and overheating.Please reconnect the hi limit, as it is an integral part of the "safety loop". That's the series of switches and sensors that keep the thing from exploding. Your hi limit was doing its job.Hope that helped, good luck.
