20 Most Recent Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES - Page 9 Questions & Answers

super shock pool to get rid of phosphates and use a phosephate maintenance product

check wires in back of pump motor maybe loose make sure all breakers are on and make sure wires going to pump relay are tight you might have a bad pump relay also

about every three years take multiport off shop vac sand out check the laterals for damage then refill with sand check label on tank for amount when refilling dont get sand in vertical pipe

try blowing compressed air from the pump the plugs are the same size as a compressor hose

yes if backwash is leaking plug it that will get you by until you fix it

back washing will give you the right amount of pressure when the filter is clean that is your starting pressure when it goes up about 10 pounds of pressure it will need to be backwashed

you have a leak in one of the intake unions make sure to use pool lube if those ok check pump top seal or chlorinator top keep checking youll find it if not need more info

Pools are not low maintenance. You may have to change the filter or back flush it if you have not done that yet.

give them the model number of the filter and the multiport

remove multiport shop vac the sand out when replacing sand make sure pipe is on bottom and if you have the adapter so no sand will get in pipe also it keeps pipe straight fill with new sand if you dont have that put something in pipe and keep in center of hole when filled take rag out and put multiport back on tighten down put in filter position the n start up

is water still coming out of backwash if so spider gasket might be bad

need more info does it have a multi speed pump if so you need to put it in manual or backwash

turn filter off turn multiport to backwash turn pump on you should see water coming out of the waste line (make sure you have a hose on it with clamps) run for a coupleof minutes until water in sightglass goes from dirty to clear turn off pump turn multiport to rinse turn pump on run for 30 sec then turn off turn multiport to filter then turn back on thats all

Damaged or worn spoke gasket. Very common problem with this filter. You will find a number on the top of valve (i.e. SP710, SP711 or SP714x32). You will need this number to know which gasket you need. It may be helpful to know what size plumbing goes into valve as well, 1.5" and 2.0" is standard. If valve is earlier model (710, 711) you remove 6 screws on top and extract old gasket. Be sure to get all the little pieces. Dry inside of all groves with a rag. Now install new gasket, I use gel superglue. If you have a newer 714 valve it is much harder. I suggest removing the screws at the top and taking the whole key handle assembly into your local pool store for help. The gasket is molded into the key diverter so handle pin needs removed and whole key replaced. Re-assembly is difficult without proper tools given the tension of large spring.

Let's back up a few steps so that I am not assuming you have completed certain steps. 1. You would have had to disconnect all plumbing coming into the valve assembly on top of the filter. 2. You would have had to remove the screws holding the valve assembly and remove it from the top of the filter. 3. You would have had to remove all the sand from the filter. 4. You would have had to verify that the sand pipe and the laterals in the bottom of your filter unit are still connected and in the proper alignment. 5. You would have had to replace with new sand using the amount that is recommended for the size of your filter making sure as you filled with sand not to get the sand pipe and laterals out of alignment. 6. You would next have to put the value assembly back on and aligned in the same orientation when you removed it. 7. You would next re-connect all the plumbing hopefully utilizing slip-joint PVC connections so it will simplify this process next time you go to replace your sand. 8. Turn your pump back on and check/verify that you don't have any water leaking anywhere and your filter should be taken care of the rest so you are done and can move on to the next task on the honey due list.

thats ok put on filter if enough pressure it is ok

That 20 PSI does not mean anything to anyone that is going to help you. Every system will have its own "Starting Pressure". It all depends on how it is plumbed, what equipment is included (size and GPM), how big the pool is will address the issue of how much plumbing is involved, total feet & amount of fittings, valves, etc (mainly elbows create more restriction, raising the overall PSI, and if a Solar System is involved? So, is 20 PSI normal, if you have a Solar System in an average inground pool in the backyard, then that could be about normal? If you have an Above ground pool with only a pump & filter, then that could be pretty high over normal. The best thing is to backwash your filter very good, if possible use a sand filter media cleaner, available in most Pool/Spa Retail Stores. Follow the instructions on the label and proceed with the cleansing of the sand (media). Then when you turn everything back on to normal filter mode after the cleansing, make a note of the pressure! This will be "Your Systems" starting pressure. Take a "Sharpie" and write that number right on the filter tank. When the pressure climbs to 8-10 lbs over that starting pressure, backwash.

Hi Shari, I see two possibilities. 1. The diverter shaft o-rings are not sized correctly (or missing). 2. When valve handle was reinstalled it was not oriented properly with the diverter position in valve body. Hope this helps you.

Yes, the pump and sand filter act independently and each can be replaced without replacing the other. CAUTION: Your pump is an electrical appliance. Service or replacement should be conducted by a trained technician with the proper tools. Here are some things to consider as you prepare to replace your pump: 1. Be sure to disconnect the power to the pump before any dis-assembly. 2. IMPORTANT: Pool pumps typically are required by local building codes to be grounded by a dedicated ground. Be careful to not damage the grounding cable/wire, and be sure to reconnect the cable/wire in the same fashion on your new pump. This ground cable/wire is part of the electrical safety system for your pool. 3. IMPORTANT: In the same manner, pool pumps typically are required by local building codes to be connected to the power system via a ground fault sensing and interrupting device (GFI). It's wise to make sure this device is in good working condition, and should be tested monthly. Once your new pump is installed, test the GFI for proper operation. 4. Be sure to mark electrical cables that connect your old pump, and reconnect those cables in the same manner on your new pump. 5. Select the proper pump -- same HP rating, same speed (RPM) rating, same voltage and current rating, same inlet/outlet pipe diameter, etc. The pump electrical ratings should be stamped on a plate on the motor. Your pump should also have a HP rating stamped somewhere on the pump. If you do not use the same rated pump, the result could be improper water flow rate, improper back pressure, or other issues. 6. For best operation, be sure to mount the new pump in the same manner as your old pump. The pump and filter should be mounted on a sturdy and stable pad, level, and in a manner that neither can be moved during operation. 7. Make note of the hydraulic connections and reconnect your new pump in the same manner. Be sure to use new Teflon tape on pipefittings, and check for damaged hose clamps. Once re-assembled and operating, make sure all connections are water-tight, and repair any leak. Good Luck!