Top 20 Kohler - Toilet - Two-piece - Highline - K3427-RA-G9 Questions & Answers

I had cascade toilets with a pull handle. Once I unscrewed the handle, there was a nut that held the lid on. Remove that, then the lid, then you should be able to get to the mechanism.

get a plumber in under warranty to fix

check for correct water level in the cistern have a plumber clean out the lines as there may be a blockage in the pipe

There should be a small hose that is spraying the water. That hose should be put inside the overflow tube and heald in place with a clip or put into a small hole on top of the tube. Only put the tube in just enough to hold it in place. If it is spraying from anywhere else you need to replace or repair the ballcock.

sounds like something is missing. There are various models in the highline series, which one is it?

Yes it should be fine, go to Kohlers website and check the rough-in dimensions to see what size the waste hole is on the toilet usually 2 3/8 to 21/2. If it says 3 inch you might just need an adapter ring.

If it is a float and rod type, there is a screw that will adjust water level but firmly grasping the rod with both hands and bending the float up or down as needed is still the old tried and true method. If it is the newer fluidmaster type there is a screw adjustment on the float. Hope this helps. Bob

How to Fix Running Toilet

#K4421 Re black specks coming from rim jets (only). Me too. Looks like bits of rotting rubber. Water in tank is clear-no specks there. I suspect the small hose from fill valve to top of flush piston may be breaking down, as it has gone rigid and I'm afraid to squeeze it lest it shatter. First thing I'll try is replacing that hose, if I can find one. My daughter has same toilet but no "specks". With her toilet, it's the same small hose but the problem is it occasionally pops off at fill valve end. I can fix that with wire but when I find hose source, I'll buy two.

Fuse or the fan relay.....Undo the coolant temp sensor and see if it comes on, if it does then its the relay.....or wait until motor gets warm then check the plug to the fan (make sure you undo the harness 1st), is getting power....if it does then your fan is shot....

at the hinge of the seat there are caps that should snap open. underneath there are two bolts simply unscrew then then replace the seat

Flapper or flush valve needs servicing
First try cleaning minderal deposits from around the valve seat. This can keep the flapper valve from sealing properly and allow water to seap into the bowl. First turn of the water and flush the toilet to empty the bowl. You can unhook the flapper valve to get it out of the way. Using emery cloth scrub the inside of the valve seat to remove the mineral deposits. Next coat the valve seat with petroleum jelly to help the flapper valve make a tight seal. Replace the flapper valve, turn on the water and check to see if the water still leaks.
If the flapper valve is old it may be deformed. In this case you will need to replace it. You can unhook the valve and remove the lift chain from the valve. Be sure to purchase a similar size replacement valve.
If the valve seat is damaged you will need to replace the entire flush-valve assembly. You will need to remove the tank to do this. Be certain to turn off the water supply and flush the tank to drain it. You might also want to place newspaper and towels on the floor to soak up any water that may leak out. Using and adjustable wrench loosen the nuts at the supply tube and push the tube aside. Next, use a flat-head screwdriver to hold the bolts inside the tank still while using an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut on the bottom of the tank. You will then be able to lift the tank off of the bowl. Lay the tank on the newspapers or towels.
To replace the flush-valve assembly first remove the old one by unscrewing the locknut on the bottom of the tank. Use a hacksaw to cut the new overflow pipe to 1/2 ince below the tank top. Put plumber's putty on the washer at the base of the flush-valve assembly and push the assembly against the tank opening, removing any excess putty. Use a monkey wrench to tighten the locknut. Replace the gasket over the locknut and replace the tank on the bowl and reassemble them.
g and adjustable wrench loosen the nuts at the supply tube and push the tube aside. Next, use a flat-head screwdriver to hold the bolts inside the tank still while using an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut on the bottom of the tank. You will then be able to lift the tank off of the bowl. Lay the tank on the newspapers or towels.
To replace the flush-valve assembly first remove the old one by unscrewing the locknut on the bottom of the tank. Use a hacksaw to cut the new overflow pipe to 1/2 ince below the tank top. Put plumber's putty on the washer at the base of the flush-valve assembly and push the assembly against the tank opening, removing any excess putty. Use a monkey wrench to tighten the locknut. Replace the gasket over the locknut and replace the tank on the bowl and reassemble them.

You need to change the valve. It probably is stopped up with calcuim, etc.

quick solution is to read 500 times this quote.
peace be upon him.
patience.time heals this time is a great healer
till the problem will solve.
plz request fixya to not delete my account.
blockporn.tk

You cannot adjust the pressure on the toilet. But you can adjust the stop setting screw at the top of the float arm. If the water is coming in too fast you can adjust the valve where the toilet water line connects to the wall water supply. Closing the valve a little will slow down the flow of water and it will take a little longer to refill the toilet water tank.

Hello, W/D here.

Most probably, the tank-to-bowl gasket has not seated properly. They are usually neoprene, and tend to bight on the bowl socket rather than to slide into the socket where it can be compressed properly. Remove the tank bolts and look at the gasket. Re-install, using a water based lubricant on the bowl side, with the gasket installed on the tank flange. Wiggle the tank and gasket back and forth a few times, and the gasket will start properly into the cast socket on the bowl. Install the bolts and tighten to finger tight. Wiggle the tank a bit more, and level the top. Tighten the bolts uniformly.
You mention that the flush valve was hand tightened only. If this gasket is not snug (a bit more than hand tight), a leak can occur there as well.
Best regards, --W/D--

It needs to be shimed,either floor uneven or casting is not uniform.It is a problum most people don't understand.Toilets when set need to be leveled if not you can break bowl.Go to home depot and in plumbing dept. ask for plastic shims-come in little bag,tap under toilet and then snug down bolts,(don't reef on bolts)when shes tight take flat head screwdriver and hammer and chop off shim flush.You should take dap tub and tile caulk (water soulible) and dap around bottom-keep wiping sponge with clean water around till it looks nice let set up for 12-24 hours,toilet should be rock solid.If by chance its leaking around base you'll have to reset with new wax Richie

This link will help you

http://kohler.dirxion.com/toiletserviceparts

The flapper is not proprietary to this unit an after market flapper will work as good and in most cases better. The flappers offered but Fluid Master are in my opinion the best out there. Remove the flapper and match it up with one offered but them, install it and you will be good to go.
The problem with getting the stock part is that the toilet your working on was discontinued so time ago and unless you are ready to give up your 3.5 gallon flush toilet keep fixing it as long as you can.

If I understand correctly, your water level inside the bowl is 3 or 4 inches from the top of toilet seat?
Sounds peculiar to have that water level since you would get splashing etc.
That is not sanitary, and would be a code violation.
Look at side profile of tank.
Look at porcelain behind bowl and you can see outline of "s trap."
This is the internal trap that each toilet has built in.
Purpose of trap is to a) set water level inside bowl and b) just like a sink trap, seal pipe from sewer air from entering home.
Photo shows trap on sample toilet, with line showing approximate level of water inside bowl.
Since photo is at an angle, the line appears to go downward instead of level. Again the line is approximation, and photo intended to show where you can look on your toilet.
Your tank should have similar s-trap feature. From the feature on your tank, you can see what level water is intended to be inside bowl.
Some more expensive tanks, outline of s-trap is not apparent.

If the water level is so high that you experience unsanitary conditions, this is a code violation, and toilet should be replaced.

Quick web search turned up Kohler contact page: http://www.us.kohler.com/general/contact.jsp
KOHLER Customer Care at
Phone: 1-800-4KOHLER (1-800-456-4537)
Hours: 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Central Time) Monday to Friday
You can refer Kohler to this link on Fixya so they can clearly understand issue.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

maybe somebody glued your tank lid shut... you just lift the tank top...no screws nothing..just lift it up

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

4 Thumbs - Very Helpful
3 Thumbs - Helpful
2 Thumbs - Somewhat Helpful
1 Thumb - Not Helpful