Top 20 Porter Cable 690LR Router Questions & Answers

If the collet was tightened without a bit in it, it may have been squeezed so it is too small for the bit shank. Completely unscrew the collet from the router and see if the bit will go into it. If not, you can try forcing an old bit in using your vice, and then using as hammer and punch to remove the bit, but most likely you will have to get a new collet. Just search "Porter Cable router parts to find a source.

Go to the DeWalt ServiceNET website at http://servicenet.dewalt.com/, search on your model number in the Find Parts box, select which Type router you have, and you'll be able to read or download the parts breakdown and instruction manual.

Have you tried taking out the collet and cleaning it and the cavity where it goes? If there is any wood dust present it may be causing the problem. If that doesn't fix it, you may need a new collet.

First, set the bit to where you want to measure from. This is usually done by setting the router on a flat surface and raising or lowering the bit until the end just touches the surface, Then set the zero on the ring to line up with a line on the router motor body. Each mark equals 1/64". The 1-8 marking means 1/8" and so on. Don't move the ring, rotate the router motor body to set the depth. Read the new depth where the line now meets the ring.

Well I'd use a 3" Forstner bit to cut the hole, not a router. Here's a link so you know what I'm talking about: http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-D1024-3-Forstner-Bit/dp/B0000DD0KZ
A forstner bit is more precise but usually not used in a handheld drill situation. A keyhole saw may be too imprecise for the rudder although a dedicated (not interchangeable) keyhole saw is one option. The depth of the cut would be the other problem here.
A VERY slow drill setting is required. A high torque, low speed drill suitable for use with a diamond cutter hole saw would be best. i.e. max 450rpm.
In the boat building industry you would normally use a guide that you bolt to the rudder or mast to drill such a hole. I don't have a ready reference for such a guide but you may have luck simply asking a local boat-builder (very very nicely) to borrow one! It is easier to drill three mounting bolts into the rudder to hold the guide and later backfill with a quality (read "marine") epoxy.
A boatbuilder I worked with had one such mount specially made. It is simply a flange turned from steel - the harder (the steel) the better but also more expensive. Three bolt holes in the collar allow for mounting. The centre hole is the exact right dimension for either a drill bit or forstner bit.
The problem on the rudder is the non-flat surface. A piece of packing timber, crafted to match the curved surface to a flat plate is the best idea.
As an alternative a special drill-bit like a fish-tail can be used. These bits can be used at high speed to cut an accurate hole at the size you want. It all depends how exact you need to be.
Whatever you choose, trial the hole and hub cuts in a similar grade timber first. Whichever way you go the standard solution is a custom solution!
I would suggest a plug cutter for the hub and FAMAG is the best, made in Germany. A matched pair for 3" i/d and o/d is the best option for an exact match. This is the normal procedure for such a boatbuilding operation.
Good Luck!

If it was stored in an area that wasn't dry it could be as simple as replacing the motor brushes. Part number 869659 or 824216 is available for about $5.00. The motor is pretty easy to take apart if you want to give it a good cleaning. Check your brushes first a coin or a screwdriver to take out the black plugs on the sides adjacent to the power cord. they are spring loaded so be careful. I've lost one in my personal bermuda triangle garage floor. if they look corroded take a piece of fine grit sand paper and lightly sand them. see if that does the trick, if it doesn't and you are inclined i would clean the inner and outer fields of the motor.

It controls the depth of cut. Loosen the clamp at the back of the router and turn the motor until the bit touches the workpiece. Tighten the clamp. Turn the wheel until the line on the motor housing is at zero on the wheel. Loosen the clamp and turn the motor to the depth (on the wheel) of your desired cut,ie 1/4 ". retighten the clamp and your cut is set for 1/4th inch.

I would suggest going to Dewaltservicenet.com and typing in your model number for an owners manual for this tool. If you still need more help let me know and I will try.

I still think that it is the bearings, especially since of the squealing noise which is a symptom of the bearing seizing up and the armature shaft would get hot transferring the heat to the motor housing. Give me the model number and brand and I will find a breakdown and part numbers for you and also if you give me your general location I will try and find someone local to get the parts.

This is a common issue with these kits. Some guys put a little shred of paper in the threads as they screw it together.
Try to reach inside the base and grap the knurled ring with a pair of channel locks and you should be able to get sufficient grip on it to tighten it enough to keep it from spinning loose.
If it still works loose, you could put a little rubber cement or Spray adhesive on just a bit of the threads, let it dry, and then screw it together. It will be harder to undo, but should keep it from vibrating off.
Finally, if you have a lot of work to do with the template guides, try to make a point to check it occasionally. In this way, you are more likely to catch it before it comes loose enough to do any damage. I don't believe it could spin off all the way, but it can loosen to the extent that your work is damaged.
I hope this helps in some respect.
Best regards.

Are you sure that there is no short circuit in the power cord itself? Have you tested to see that you do in fact have power to the switch?
If so, have a look at the brushes...Are they worn out and in need of replacement?
Blow some compressed air down through the motor and clear dust from the armature. Sometimes debris and sawdust gets inside these things and causes intermittent problems.
Do you have any cause to believe the motor itself has been subjected to the kind of loads that would cause severe overheating and lead to failure?
Any or several of these could contribute to a no power condition.
If none of these things apply, give the motor a couple of sharp smacks on the side with the heel of your palm. If there is a loose connection, sometimes this is enough to jar it into place long enough to get a partial power start up, and you can troubleshoot the loose connection. If not, it may make you feel a little better.
Otherwise, I'm afraid you may have a faulty motor. But these porter cables are workhorses. I rarely see them fail entirely. But it does happen.

I hope this helps you to diagnose the source of your problem and leads you to a solution. If there's anything more I can do to help, please let me know.

call this company, they have the different types I purchased from them and no complaints https://www.ereplacementparts.com/porter-cable-7800-

The brushes are not replaceable - it is an entire motor assembly. 1) remove the 2 screws holding the top handle on 2) remove the 2 screws on the top of the housing (front either side of switch) 3) remove single screw holding cord hook (rear side of housing) 4) remove small torx screw in the shaker handle and remove the handle Flip over and using a screwdriver begin to pry the top cover off the housing (easiest to get the front side off first)

first you need to remove the tank and get rid of the rust with a rust kill agent, vinga or chemical type with corrosive converter, then liquid paint the inside of the tank, swilling the paint inside and leave to drip out. then find a high pressure line filter, these are a solid filter and put in line. to stop this happening again to the tank you can also put a drop valve in place and when not in use press to release the air inside as this is what rusts the tank. but after the restoration it should be fine without a filter.

Is this it? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132302/Porter-Cable-Bsv750.html

take it back for a warranty exchange make sure that the voltage listed on the machine is the same as used in the house

Remove the screws holding the 2 sides together and expose the wiring. Remove the remnants of old cord and replace with new one. Reassemble.

Hello Terry Dugger, If it is suddenly stopping it could be a bearing problem... but if it is slowing down like a tired battery... DEPENDING VERY MUCH on what kind of battery you have (undisclosed model ...purpose tool)... "some" RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES develop a memory... and are reluctant to go BELOW that level. Typically these are seldom used tools... wiki does a pretty good description on these batteries (types). There are folks out there that think it is CLEVER to DISCHARGE these thing... or pulse them to BREAK THE MEMORY. Likely to case a fire or explode as to succeed... If you are suddenly using a tool that has been stored foe a while... you MIGHT notice the battery time is getting better... Else just buy a replacement battery... Cordless tools do not do well if stored incorrectly. Hope this helps. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memory_effect Nickelcadmium battery Porter Cable Home Amazon com porter cable batteries

Have you lubricated either nail gun? If not, go to Home Depot and get a bottle of air tool oil. It's in tools by the compressors. Disconnect the air hose from the tool. Pour about a teaspoon of oil into the air inlet of the tool. Reconnect everything and try it 10-20 times with no nails in the tool. Then try it with nails. Good luck.

Any good quality general purpose grease should suffice. If you want a more detailed answer, you need to provide a little more information than just E77 edge sander. Brand, full model number (not the name), etc.