20 Most Recent Kirby G5 Bagged Upright Vacuum - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I cleaned the end of rod and the hole in the wheel, and then forced the wheel back on the rod. A little bit of glue at the end of rod will help to keep wheel stay.

you need either a new nutreal cam bracket assembly, that is what engages and disengages the tech drive.OR to adjust the handle pivot assy- diffucult . this is not for the faint of heart. it is possible to fix them as i used to repair kirbys, however, I remember how frustrating it was to figure out how to disassemble and reassemble them. it is very complicated to a novice. I would recomend having it repaired professionaly. it is possible for a professional to repair it in a very short period of time.

another thing to consider. look on the UNDERSIDE of your Kirby, between the two drive wheels. just in fronnt of the tech drive/nutreal switch. there should be a screw there, tighten that screw up. actually tighten all of them. on My generation 3 the center screw came loose and it would not go in to drive and it would make an aweful clatter. hope this was helpful

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You definitely need a new emptor. :0)

I have never touched a Kirby vacuumbefore and my wife had the same issue. The neutral/drive pedal just fellout so I figured I would give it a shot to see if I could fix it andquickly figured out the 3 screws in the bottom plate for the driveunit wasn't the answer. I was able to figure things out out after I founda parts list with diagrams at the follow web site and address:Vac Parts Warehouse.comhttp://www.vacpartswarehouse.com/category-s/2821.htmThe two parts involved are:13. Bracket Cam Assembly Neutral DrivePedal 557689A16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral DriveG6 558499AHere's how to get to a point that youcan get these two parts in/out of the machine.- Remove bag and fill tube from handleand main unit- Remove floor nozzle assembly- Remove the handle via the two screwsat the handle fork plate (these have loctite on them so needed asocket wrench with torex bits to get them out).- Remove the plastic rear scuff platevie the screw with the power cord anchor and screw by the Pedal CamFor Neutral Drive. Note release plastic tab in slot in the center andlift from the back and then over the base where the handle attaches. I did not do this as I removed the thepower drive assembly so I could figure out how to put the diveassembly back together. The pressed on arm that drives the camassembly had pulled of the pedal shaft so this also made it easier tofish out the parts and experiment on positioning the arm in the right spot . I found the arm and a spring washer inside. Note – continue disassembly below if bracket cam assembly will not come out as it is easier to work with once the drive assembly is removed. Remove the screw on the bottom plate that attaches the Bracket Cam Assembly and slide the Pedal Cam. Then the plastic back panel and the cam assembly should slide out if you lift up on it. Note that the screw is the only one with a star lock washer on it. Also note that this entire assembly is the only way that the parts are sold and it includes plastic back plate and metal cam assembly as. I when down the path to repair the existing assembly so I needed to take the power drive out The part was 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A at Vac Parts Warehouse.com. The one listed on the website said it was for a G6 even though the parts listing is for a G5 so I don't know....To continue to disassemble and takethe power drive assembly out:- Remove the 4 screws from the CoverShell assembly - the metal top part. You do not need to remove thehinged Headlight Cap that is attached to it.- Remove the 4 screw from the bracketassembly that has the handle attachment and forward/reverse switch.It attached by two wires. I only disconnect one and swung it to theside.- Snap off the the on/off switch anddisconnect from the Actuating Rod Foot Pedal to Power Switch.- Remove the 3 screw from the bottomplate of the power drive assembly.- Remove the drive belt.- The power drive assembly will nowdrop out the bottom. I just put the spring washer and armback on the shaft and reassembled. I'll see how long that lastsbefore before buying the new part. Update: this fix did not last long. Use red Loctite or super glue to attach cam to shaft so it doesn’t pull out if you want to avoid buying the new assembly. Note that the cam must be aligned so that when the neutral side is pushed the cam will stop in the detent to hold it in place. Must be reassembled in the drive position as that is the default for the drive assembly.Have fun.

HELLO, JUST USE THIS GUIDE! :0)http://reviews.ebay.com/REPLACING-OR-REPAIRING-KIRBY-VACUUM-NEUTRAL-DRIVE-PEDAL?ugid=10000000011180003HOPE IT HELPS! :0)

I know the lever you're describing, but it's very hard to tell someone how to put it back on. There's nothing wrong with your transmission, by the way, this is a part that's meant to be moveable, and it just happened to slip off in your case. You may call us at 1-866-509-1952, and we can do our best to help you.

this could be a couple of things, first I am suspecting it may be the cord. goes for so long and shuts off, possible break in the cord. Usually the machine will have normal operation at this point. Overheating or unusual warmness coming from the machine itself, could be a possible motor problem. Usually a burning smell is associated with this. Thirdly, perhaps the "deadman" switches are not covered properly. this could be as simple as the bag container where it joins to the machine has come loose or dislodged enough to shut the machine down. There is also another deadman switch located on the brush housing and the attachment hose. If those have been switched recently try re-switching it back off and on again to see if that corrects the problem. Good luck!!

You need to remove the main head with the brushes from the front and install the safety cup. The remove the bag by unclipping from the top and disconnecting the boot end from the bottom with an outwards twist. Now attach the hose to the exposed outlet; attached the thin nozzel designed for inflating to the hose and switch on - you will feel air being expelled from the hose. Air, which normally contains dirt and dust because you're hoovering is blown into the bag, but now with the bag removed; the air is blown into your hose, through the attachment and into what ever needs inflating.For a good visual set of instructions click on the following link and scroll down to the second set of instructions :How to change hoover to a blower

The belt is not on the motor shaft. Remove the head from the motor unit. With the belt centered on the brushroll, turn the belt lifter a full 3/4 turn counterclockwise to stretch the belt up onto the belt lifter finger. ( Look through the back to be sure the belt is streched into a loop over the finger.) Plce the head back on the motor unit and latch it in place, then turn the belt lifter fully clockwise to drop the belt onto the motor shaft. Be sure the brushroll is correctly installed in the head. Setting # 1 should face the floor.

The pedal assembly must be replaced,( part # 558401S), as it has a gear pressed to it which has come loose. The handle, switch plate, and upper motor cover must be removed first. To remove the plastic switch plate, remove it's screws and insert a flat screwdriver into the rectangular slot in it to pop it off. Four screws hold the upper motor shell in place. Next the switch button must be removed. The Techdrive assembly can be removed by removing the three screws on the bottom. Drop the drive down, and unhook it's belt from the gear on the end of the armature shaft. The pedal assembly can be removed by removing the remaining screw from the bottom of the drive unit. The N/D pedal has two parts - the pedal itself, and the shift cam. Observe carefully how these units fit together. After installing the new pedal and replacing the screw and washer to secure it, re-install the drive unit. The shift must be in the Drive position to install it, and remember to replace the belt. Be sure to line up the arm on the drive unit so that it engages the slot at the base of the handle pivot and re-install the other items.

make sure your belt is installed properly maning that it is turning to the rear of the unit

If it is running and you have no suction, there has to be a clog in the dirt path. To clear it, start at the head of the vacuum (where the dirt goes in) take apart or disconnect everything you can along this path until you arrive at the bag or cannister. Take pics with your cell phone so you can reassemble it. Hoses: run a broom handle through all hoses to assure they are clear. If you have a shop vac or similar, try applying vacuum to all parts of your disabled vacuum in reverse. Are there filters on your machine? Make sure they are clean. You probably don't have hoses connected, but if you do, check them as I said.

I pick up vacuums along the road all the time. Very few are more than a few months old. All of then have a clog in the hose or elsewhere in the dirt path. I clean the path and sell the vacs for a slightly discounted price. VERY rarely is it a motor problem.

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