20 Most Recent Honda Karcher G2400HH-R Pressure Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

See attached link:
http://www.wmpcs.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=14

If you continue to have the problem you might have to purchase a new unloader valve, see attached link:
http://www.wmpcs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45_2&products_id=246

This is a relatively easy SELF correction process. Mind you a pool is FRESH water.

1. Drain all gas by remove the hose that connects to carb and completly drain the gas tank. (If there is an in line fuel filter or glass debris bowl, change filter / empty bowl.
2. Remove float bowl nut and bowl and purge water. Spray carb with carb cleaner while float bowl is removed. Paying particular attention to the float bowl nut thread area (throat)
3. Drain Oil. AFTER step 5.
4. Pressure Pump oil should be fine as it is not vented. (depending on pump installed but none of them are vented.
5. Remove spark plug and put about 1 ounce gas directly into the cylinder IGN OFF! Pull recoil and let gas exit spark plug hole. Reinstall a NEW spark plug BPR5ES or similar
6. Service engine oil
7. Fan dry the unit over night. Simple floor fan will do. Leave the gas cap OFF / float bowl open overnight during Fan Air dry.
8. Next morning service gas tank
9. Select fuel on and let a small amout of gas leak before installing the float bowl and nut making sure the float bowl gsket is installed against the top of the float bowl.

Final testing time... Ign. on.. Test spark first. Spark check good. FUEL ON. Start.

Just make sure to change oil again in 10 hours. Water in oil will cause the oil to appear milky.

You can do this. Worst case the electronic ignition module fails. (They are cheap... !) Most of the time the coil will not need to be changed.

That is water de-contamination 101 and you just completed the course. Give it your best shot. It beats buying a new one and yes it is worth repairing.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly
P.S. Oil the TIRE / WHEEL bearings.

spill valve aka unloader valve is stuck needs to be cleaned and lubricated with grease re instaled

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

First off check to see if there is an inlet screen at the house water hose connection point. Remove it and clean it then reinstall. If the screen was clean.......
The unloader / bypass valve on the pump high pressure head outlet is being fussy. Try this before you attempt anything else. With no hoses connected to the unit pour 3 - 4 ounces of engine oil into the water supply connection and let it sit over night. As you add oil with engine ign off pull the recoil to pump the added oil through the pump. Your tryng to get the oil all the way though the pump to the high pressure outlet. Let is sit overnight. You will probably need some newpaper under the unit as some of the oil will leak back out over night.

Next day... add a little more oil and once again pull the recoil ign off. Then connect the hoses and fire it up. Make sure you purge the air from the house hose at the water connection befor conneting the hose. Just run the hose until you see water coming out then shut off the water and connect it.

Start the unit and then trip the wand trigger rapidly 30 times or so once the pressure is up. What your doing is exersizing the unloader / thermal relief springs and the seals that were lubricated by the oil. The oil you left in the unit overnight will losen most of the rust on the springs and pass through the high pressure hose and wand.

This works more often than you would think to correct a fussy pressure washer.

There is more that can be done if the oil does not do the trick. Just respond here with your complete model number and I will help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Any possibility the unit froze this past winter? They do have to be winterized.

what are you talking aboyt please ?

hi no you can weld them but it will put another hole in it somewhere else i have tried it a few times, regards

First if you have a filter where the water is coming into machine and if you have not already cleaned the filter clean it,but i'm sure you have already thought of that after that the pump may have a problem, most of the time it is cheaper to buy anouther machine than to fix it...sorry

the most comon problem with thease is a stuck bypass valve, this is the valve that alowes the water to bypass round the pump when the triger is closed, when they stick all of your pressure runs around the pump and not out of your nozzle,,
its located in the centre of the pump on the top, undo the 2 cap screws pull out valve greese and re fit

Hi
The unloader valveis HERE
If you go to D-2 it is part numbers 8 to 13. If it is stuck it is not only important to free it up but also make sure no o-rings are damaged and lube it with a very good waterproof grease. Good luck.

The cart body makes this process a little confining but it can be carried out without removing the pump from the motor.

Diagram courtesy of:

1. Refer to assembly 9 in the diagram. Remove the splash cup by working the push-on nut off the top of the cup.
2. Remove two Torx fasteners (13) and twist the nylon valve retainer gently while pulling up to remove it. Be aware of the small parts under the retainer.
3. The objective is to get the valve (12) out of the bore (A). Connect the hose and wand to the pump, make sure the wand valve is closed. Connect the water supply to the pump and turn on the water flow.
4. Place a shop towel over the valve bore and with the throttle in the off position, pull the start cord briskly several times to see if enough pressure builds to pop the valve out of the bore. If not, set the throttle to low and start the engine. Unless the valve bore is really corroded, this should pop the valve out.
5. If this process fails, you may have to unmount the pump and employ a more brutal approach that will likely require a new valve.

I have worked on my washer for the last 2-3 years to keep it going but I've opted to replace the pump this year. My replacement is an "AR RMV2G25D" (~$170) .