Campbell Hausfeld PW1750 Electric Pressure Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Either the pump is bad or worn out or the pressure relief valve is stuck open and needs to be closed. No kinks in water line to unit?

It goes onto the wand itself. With the Pressure Washer off: If you have the wand unattached from the hose it works easier. Then separate the WAND into two pieces at the big joint in the center. Insert the bottle into the joint on the opposite end of the section that will be attached to the hose, (once you have the wand in two pieces you will see the same types of connections that are on the bottle.) then attach the other end of the wand to the bottle. Now reattach the wand to the hose.

soap dispensers only work wit no or low pressure nozzels. when you have high pressure nozzles there is too much back pressure for the soap dispenser to function ..

The 20 amp slow blow fuse inside could be blown.

Hello Woodnflies,

I understand that you need to rewire your pressure washer. I understand that you already have the switch wired and the motor wired as they are working. You need to power the pump that has a white (common) male and a black (hot) female. You what spade connections do you have open to connect too.

You should have a black and a white that have nothing attached to them this is where the pump wires are going to attache in the circuit.

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Justin

You could bring it to a repair shop where they will probably install a new power cord. The now-shortened power cord can be fitted with a new plug, and used as before instead - for a fraction of the cost.

From what I can tell, the pressure washer is a 120 volt type. Purchase a replacement plug - called a "cord cap". The most common configuration is pictured below:



A 15 amp / 125 volt male cord cap made by Leviton.

Your's is likely rated at 125V/ 15A (like the one above). This means there's 2 parallel blades and a ground pin - like most grounded plugs in your home. If unsure, bring the cut off section of the power cord to a hardware store to select an identical cord cap. You'll want to purchase the type of cord cap that has terminal screws - not the type without screws. The packaging of the cord cap will indicate how much of the cord jacket and individual wire insulation to remove. A little more or less won't make it impossible to do - but don't deviate too much from these dimensions for the best results. Once the cord has been stripped correctly - Disassemble the cord cap body from the outer shell by removing the screws on the front. Loosen or remove the 2 screws at the cord grip end and slip the shell over the end of the power cord.

Bring the cord cap body to the cord. The body will have 3 screws. One each silver (or light colored), bronze (or dark colored) and green. Loosen all the screws - do not completely remove them. Twist all the strands of each wire so that they are bundled together and there are no stray wires sticking out. Do this for each white, black and green wires. The black wire will connect to the bronze colored screw, the white wire to the silver screw and the green to the green colored screw. You can either insert the stripped wires into the small holes at the back of the terminal screws, or wrap them around the screw terminals themselves. The best way is to wire from the back - but if you choose to wrap around the screws, be sure all the small wires are under the screw head. Tighten the screws and tug the wires one at a time to make sure they are held firmly in place.

Once satisfied that the wires are connected correctly and tight - slide the outer shell towards the cord cap body. Align the screws with the holes in the outer shell. The parts will only fit together one way - so don't try to force it together. Tighten the screws in the front and then install / tighten the screws at the cord end to grip the cord. This clamp should be firm - but not to the point of crushing the cord. Test in a ground fault protected outlet and you're done!

I hope this helps.. please rate this reply - thanks!

container may be plugged is the level of the solution going down as you spray?

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I ahve had Washer for 9 years. I has worked nicely. Now, it will not pump with house valve on. It will spray under pressure when the valve is turned off. I have rewired the plug in cord.

Replace the wand (Gun) The valve is not repairable.

With the water faucet turned fully on and the power switch on squeeze and hold the trigger for at least 10 seconds to let the water flow push the air out and then it should start up.

HI I would think that your pressure switch has stuck.
You will need to remove the covers etc and check the internal pressure switch that will be situated on the outlet of the pump. It maybe stuck and just want greasing etc or may need replaceing.

looked up Campbell Hausfield service on internet. found dealer within 1 mile of home.

water pumps doesn't require oil in the pump; but your engine does require. if the water pump is of "self priming" type, fill the pump casing with water before starting the machine to avoid damage to the water seals.

Sounds like a coil.Run till it shuts off, then check for spark.If there is no spark you will need a coil.

Hook up the water hose and plug it in I assume it is electric.

cuff kit for the pump housing a service manual but it could together sometimes expensive , look at the plungers they must be stainless ,before the dicision ,The age for a pressure washer depends mostly on the speed range mostly in two speeds in 1600 or 2800 rpm. a 2800 rpm is usually an entry level model and an age of 7 or 8 years on average. the 1600 rmp and with a brass pump is a quality product, and if its COMET Kraenzle DIBO INTER PUMP than it pays,, in your case http://www.partselect.com/Models/PW165001LE/#Parts

2 possibilities. It is not getting enough water from the hose or your pressure regulator is bad. Does it sound like the engine is developing full RPM? Could be and engine problem if not coming up to full speed.

Because the seals are shot and need to be replaced.

There is a small Black threaded cap located on the Bottom portion of the motor. This is your drain plug. There should be 2, one is a little higher which is your Oil fill plug (usually Yellow or Red), the lower one which is on the opposite side should be your drain plug. Could also be a square head screw located at the bottom of the motor that you remove to drain the oil. Hope this helps.