Does the chain continue spinning? If no (and gasoline) bad clutch. If yes I suspect the bar and chain are binding (cutting in an arch). That is often caused by a worn bar or improperly sharpened chain. Post back (below) if the latter and I will help with that too. Post back with the model number (358.#####) and I will help with clutch replacement.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Try turning the "L" needle 1/8 CCW If no better try 3/16 CW. The "L" is primarily smoothness at idle and acceleration. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Workshop Manual for a Husky 357XP/359 (2006 - I will wager yours is similar) follows: The Husky workshop manual on Appendix A (USA, this probably does not apply to your vintage saw) says "H" 3/4 turn CCW from lightly seated. "L" 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated. Page 36 (every other nation on earth) 1 turn CCW from lightly seated for both the "H & L" needles. There is no recommended initial "T" setting. (from manual) "The idling speed is correctly set when the engine runs smoothly in all positions and there is a clear margin to the speed at which the chain starts to move". These are initial settings and the saw needs to be adjusted for performance. Start with a clean air filter and a fresh fuel mix. I could not find an OM for a 1994, a 1995 says mix @ 50:1 per Husky (1 gallon of premium fuel to 2.6 ounces of quality 2-cycle oil).
This explains performance carburetor adjustment better than I can: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. Good Luck. HTH. Lou
"H" and "L" start with 1.5 CCW from lightly seated.
From a "357XP/359 Workshop Manual". There is no recommended initial "T" setting. (from manual) "The idling speed is correctly set when the engine runs smoothly in all positions and there is a clear margin to the speed at which the chain starts to move".
From initial this is the best advice I have found. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. HTH Lou
Your saw is a Poulan. Judging by your model my best guess is a PP3516* or PP3816*. * = some suffix.
A little experimentation may prove usefull here: Poulan.com http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html The dash number of your serial number is the type (this may not be true for Craftsman). Good Luck.
I make no guarantee of the applicability of this research. I recommend you contact "CheapChainsawParts.com" (or 1 (800) 438-0668) to verify this application.
Methodology to arrive at the bow part number "HQ-100"
An Oregon bar for a Husky 455 is mount/oiler configuration "095" ( the last part of any Oregon replacement bar).
A Oregon bar for a Husky 55 is also mount/oiler configuration "095".
You can check my Oregon research here: Oregon Bar & Chain Selector http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
This bow http://www.cheapchainsawparts.com/cmp_HQ-100_part.html
is the replacement bow for a Husky 55; it should also fit a Husky 455. I make no affirmation there are no modifications required, applicability of this application, or even that it will fit.
some times this can be something easy sometimes not just follow a few simple steps:
Have you replaced the bar and chain recently?
#1 Remove bar and chain and blow out all sawdust esp around your bar studs dont get to close with the air as you can sometimes pop seals...
Start your saw see if oil comes out around bar studs if so the oil holes in your cutter bar may be blocked...
#2 If that doesnt work remove your oil filler cap and use a piece of wire with a bend on the end to remove your oil filter remove it from oil line and clean in fuel and blow out with compressed air replace on hose and place back into tank and try start chain saw again...
if that doesnt work then take it in to small engine repair shop as the pump may be blocked or unservicable and need replacing
If you must choke it for it to run it is running lean. Continued operation in a lean condition will ruin it. If you did nothing to the carburetor adjustments, are using a fresh (1.5 months or less) fuel mix with the same fuel/oil ratio it was last tuned with, (I recommend 50:1 = 1 gal premium fuel to 2.6 oz quality 2-cycle engine oil), are operating at the same elevation, and the air filter is clean, there is a reason your saw is acting up. Clean the spark arrestor screen. Most often it is a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel filter on the free end of a hose in fuel tank (manufacturer recommends an annual replacement). Check all fuel delivery lines especially at fittings and bends for cracks and holes. It can also be an air leak, inspect for a loose or defective carburetor manifold or loose carburetor. If those are good then the likely cause is internal parts of the carburetor are dirty or have failed. HTH
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou A local saw shop Husky or Stihl (not Jerry's lawn mower) will usually repair this for $20-40. It might be worth a call or 2. If repaired and tuned ask what fuel/oil mixture they used and affix a label near the fuel filler cap.
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou
Recoil Spring Rewind I invert and secure the housing and rewind the spring large coil to small (need eye protection, both hands and no women around work area!). I'm right handed so I tension the spring enough to insert it inside the previous coil while holding what has already been installed with my left about 180° from my right hand. The tension will hold the spring in the housing once completely inserted. Then bend slightly the inner most part to engage the starter spool. It will require about 2 turns of pretension for it to retract properly. HTH Lou
Check the condition of the fuel line and filter in the tank and to the carb and primer.Today gas and time will soften them allowing them to become blocked or leak.Replace if needed.
this can be caused by sevral things inside the pull cord hub assembly. examples: Dirty inside & needs taken apart & cleaned. something logged inside, plastic spool tabs broke, spring/s broke, levers broke or any of these items could just be to worn. replacement parts should be available.
Use a quality 2 cycle oil and mix it to the OIL supplier's recommended ratio. Today I use Stihl 2 cycle oil mixed @ 50:1 in a Pioneer that I purchased new in 1980. There are no gouges or scratches on the piston or cylinder and I have no carbon build up on the piston top. The manual (on stone tablets) recommends 24:1. Over the years the mixture has leaned from 24:1 (Saw Recommendation) to 28:1 (Lawn boy mower recommendation) to 32:1 (Oil provider 8oz/2gal - used for many years) and finally the last 5 (±) years 50:1 (Stihl 2.6oz/1gal)
Most gas in the US of A contains ethanol; not good with chainsaws. Mix what you expect to use within a few months. Anything over 6 months old use up in a 4 cycle engine. HTH Lou
