20 Most Recent Culligan Under Sink Water Filter - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Did you replace the R.O. membrane as will as the carbon and sediment filters. If your water is very hard or you have a lot of usage the membrane could be clogging up as they use a 3-5 micron filter.I would also check pressure in your tank and set it around 5 to 7 p.s.i.Hope this helps you. Thanks

Your question is difficult to answer until you determine where it is leaking. Some common places to check are inlet and outlet ports,are fittings going into these tight enough, are they to tight and have cracked the housing on filter . Is there rust or other debris lodged in pressure relief valve.Is it leaking on gasket.
I'm not trying to avoid your question I just need more info. If it's leaking around inlet or outlet ports then you can take these apart if they installed a union. If so then you can remove fittings and tape with several wraps of teflon tape and use pipe joint compound also if you like. If copper or brass fittings were used for installation they may have cracked the housing where they screw into. Sometime you can't see hairline cracks unless fittigs are installed.If it is leaking around base gasket you can remove filter housing and clean gasket and both sealing surfaces. Sometimes a small amount of faucet grease or petroleum jelly on the gasket will help it seal
If it's leaking out of pressure relief you will need to remove filter top and wash out with clean water to clear any rust or mineral particles.
Sorry I can't be more specific but I hope this helps some and if there is anything else I can do let me know. Thank you

I found the manual for an Aqua Clear AC15 at the following web site. Go to the below web site and locate the filters for your system. There will be a link to the manual in a .pdf format.
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/s-69-culligan-water-filters.aspx

I would put the carbon filter in line first. Carbon filters are normally used for taste and odor and chlorine. As the carbon filters are usually much cheaper than ceramic I would replace them on a regular bases. Where we live we are on a rural water system that barely meets E.P.A. standards on several points. We have a four filter R.O. system with a carbon filter on the incoming and outgoing side. I replace the one on the incoming every six months. I hope this helps you. Thanks

turn the supply valve on

For a 4-Stage system:
1. Open the housing caps of the components that house both the sediment and carbon filters (you may need a residential spanner wrench). Put each filter into its proper housing and tighten housing caps MANUALLY. Do not use wrench.
2. Repeat process with membrane housing and membrane (if membrane needs replacing).
3. Remove inline polishing filter by disconnecting tubing at both ends. Replace with new inline filter and reconnect tubing.

For a 4-Stage system:
1. Open the housing caps of the components that house both the sediment and carbon filters (you may need a residential spanner wrench). Put each filter into its proper housing and tighten housing caps MANUALLY. Do not use wrench.
2. Repeat process with membrane housing and membrane (if membrane needs replacing).
3. Remove inline polishing filter by disconnecting tubing at both ends. Replace with new inline filter and reconnect tubing.

Is this an RO system or just filtration? If so, does the membrane need replacing and/or is the GPD capacity on the membrane compatible with the system?
Another thing to look at...is your flow rate this low at a constant rate (perhaps taking 3 hours to accumulate 30 secs worth of water)? What are the micron ratings of the filters you are using? If they are too low or at the submicron level, this could massively reduce flow.
One more thing...you're only using one tank right? Because throwing a couple inline with each other with different pressures and capacities will also do this...

The bottom half of the canister unscrews. These can get stuck fairly tight and you may need some real muscle to get them undone. Looking from the bottom of the canister towards the top it unscrews in the anti-clockwise direction.
Once you get the canister apart it is a simple matter to lift the old filter out, dripping water and scale into a bucket and put a new cartridge in. Generally all domestic undersink units accept a standard 10" cartridge.
Make sure the rubber O-ring is in good condition - give it a wash under the tap with running water. You can use dishwashing detergent but don't put it in the dishwasher or use harsh chemicals. Rinse clean.
And when you tighten the canister, don't over-do it! Firm pressure is enough. The pressure increases over time which is why they can be hard to open.
Depending on your location you should change these filters at least every 12 months.
TIP: To unloosen a stuck canister you can get a plastic wrench from most hardware stores that sell filters for a couple of bucks. Sometimes you can use an auto oil-filter remover and even a leather belt wound around the canister near the top will work too.
If this helps I'd appreciate the rating! Cheers.

The drain line between the faucet and the sink drain pipe is probably clogged.

1. First turn off the water to the RO system and close the valve from the storage tank.
2. The hardest part is figuring out how to detach the tubes and couplings The link below shows how to do this. You do not need tools.
3. http://www.freshwatersystems.com/support/103seriesmanual.pdf
4. Remove the connector from the sink drain. Then remove the connector from the tube,
5. I used a small skewer to clean out the gunk from the connector and then rinsed it out.
6. I used a long skewer to loosen the gunk in the tube, then turned on the water to the system to force the gunk out.
7. Then I just put it back together and it worked.

Have the TDS or total dissolved solids tested. A good reading is 10% of the ifluent water. For example if the incoming TDS is 300parts per million, the product TDS should be 30ppm or lower. If it is higher than that, replace the membrane. Any local water treatment dealer should be able to locate and replace it for you.

http://www.culligan.com/en/service-and-maintenance/customer-support/owners-guide/

putting it in upside down..

please rate my help++++Thanks for using FIXYA

shut off the water valve
open the tap and let drain completely
the top of the filters housing has a u shaped metal retainer holding the filters cylinder in place
pry the u shape retainer outward a 1/2 inch and use pliers to remove it the rest of the way
then the filters housing can be removed
reverse this proceedure to install but gently compress the u shaped retainer back in slowly

The filter is packed full of sediment. Change it. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

replace filter or bfore you go buy filter take out the filter and run the water to see if that salves it and if it does then change your filter

Most Culligan brine tanks have a lifetime warranty.
Check with the dealer for a free replacement tank first before buying one.