Top 20 Omega Trane Furnace Draft Inducer Blower 115 Volt Variable Speed Fasco # A190 Questions & Answers

You could have a shorted gas valve.

Well if you held the pilot knob down for 1 to 2 minutes before you turned it to on and it went out your thermocoupler is no good and needs replaced

No pilot feed or it is dirty and or cob webs may be disrupting flow. Clean every thing and relight.

Now getting enough oxygen. To much fuel but it can not breathe try adjusting pilot nozzle.

Are your air filters relatively new? Is a bird nesting in your units combustion air exhaust pipe? Does your draft inducer motor run before and after the gas has ignited? Check and confirm these 3 things first. Good Luck!

This is not a "tool" question, you should have posted to Air Conditioners. eBay doesn't list any right now, last one went for $50. Is it the control board or the fan or both that you need to replace? Might be able to find the control board separate if you have that number.Best bet if you have the time, is eBay, Craigslist or a local heat and air repair guy who might have an old one he can sell you.If you are lucky:Ten-year internal functional parts limited warranty is effective on units installed after October 1, 2001 and manufactured January 1, 2000 or after. Earlier installations have two-year parts warrantyhttp://www.customengineering.info/products/esxv90.html

How to connect motor 1 phase with mcb , contactor , timer ,switch selector on off on , and lamp indicator

Must be AC - I've never heard of a 115v DC supply.

Hi. First of all, let's talk about why a fuse blows. The short answer is heat from an overloaded electrical circuit, but there's more to it than that. That blown fuse may have saved the rest of your house from burning down.

That said, the fact that the fuse blew and the motor seems to have failed goes hand in hand. I recommend taking the unit apart so that the fan's rotation and the fan's motor can both be checked over.. I suspect that you will have to replace the motor, common on a 20 year olf appliance. J.

It sounds like the fan limiter switch is going bad. This switch waits until the air temp is high enough for heating the house before allowing the fan/blower to come on. There is another switch that shuts off the blower when the air drops to a certain temp, or it may be the same switch that does both jobs. Hope this helps.

dodgy relay possibly

You have a limiter that needs to be adjusted. Putting in a new motor can be tricky. If EVERYTHING doesn't line up exactly as it was before, you will get a different operation. I had a limit switch moved less than 1/16" but, it completely changed the operation of my furnace. All of a sudden it was blowing air that was 20 degrees cooler than before.

Could be correct, or you may have something in your fan that either fell into or crawled into your fan through the exahust duct.Since you have a service contract, have they actually been out to look at it or did they tell you that on the phone. It might be worth removing the fan and clear any forign matter. The problem is the labor to do that would be the same as to replace it. What does your service contract cover??

The fan runs continously because your condensor is not kicking on and removing the heat. The thermostat needs to come under the set temp. to kick off the fan. If your compressor doesn't run and the fan on the outside unit does run, your compressor has an issue. If nothing runs outside, then your transformer on the inside unit(air handler) has an issue. This could also be a control relay on the condenser or the air handler.

When a furnace is replaced with a newer style unit like yours with an inducer motor, they sometimes use the old vent pipe. These old style vent pipes are transite (light weight cement), the moisture created from your furnace exhaust is caught on the cool transite surface and runs back down into the blower blades or wheel bringing a white mineral deposit with it which causes your problem. The vent should nave been replaced with the heater using a metal vent material. You will need to replace your inducer motor assembly and vent pipe to prevent a recurrence.

THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR SWITCHES, MY FIRST ANSWER WOULD BE REPLACE THE SWITCH SECOND WOULD BE OPEN THE DOOR AND PUSH THE BUTTON IN AND SEE IF THE FURNACE WILL WORK. THIS SWITCH IS JUST A DOOR SAFTEY IF THIS WORKS. I HAVE TAPED A PIECE ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR WHERE THE SWITCH WILL HIT THE DOOR ABOUT A 1/4 INCH THICK AND SEE IF THIS WILL GET YOU RUNNING UNTILL YOU CAN GET A SWITCH

high limit is open try tapping on it gently

How about the Heating/cooling thermostat. Sounds like you better check it. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

When you shorted it you may have caused internal damage to the compressor or blown the capacitor

I agree close enough. Only slightly slower. If it fits mechanically , useit.