Dewalt DW735R Reconditioned Heavy Duty 13" Three Knife, Two Speed Thickness Planer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

My problem exactly. Very hard to change blades. I've used wd40, heat, drilled out center of screw, but more of them get stripped all the time.

Hi Jay,

Bad news!

Was your planer out of level before the chain broke? If it was, this could be the cause of the chain breaking. If that was the case, then it's possible something in one of the front posts has broken.

If the out-of-level situation happened after the chain broke, then the chain may have not only have broken the handle connections but also a part at the top of the post.

I am pasting a website where you can easily get parts and you can see a schematic of the planer: http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/dewalt/DW735_TYPE_1

Their delivery is pretty quick.

If you have any more questions about this, please reply back.

Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate a 4 thumbs up. Thanks,

Handie Andie, woodworker by night

this is normal with all planers, when you feed the board in the planer there are two feed roller one on each side of the knives so you get uneven pressure on the board at the start and at the end of the board .when planing boards for a project always add 10"inches or more extras then cut to lenght after planing to thickness required. never cut boards to length before planing .

Hi,

Here is the exploded view of your machine...

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw733-type-inch-planer-parts-c-1009_2664_2676.html

As you can see the chain part #72 runs both rollers... and the rollers are both the same part number...so if they are not running the same speed then the sprocket or shaft must be stripped...

You will have to take things apart to tell exactly what is happening there...

heatman101

Hi mmh9894,
You may view the manual. Click the link below.
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/tylertool/DW735m.pdf
Hope I help you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

Go to http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail/DW735. On the right side is some downloads, your manual is the last one listed.

Could have the brushes stuck in their holders - sometimes you need to release them by bending a tab.
Check the motor is not stalled (by stuck bearing) - but is actually not receiving power.

Be safe.

There is a wheel on the left hand side. Typically, it won't let you LOWER it below what that wheel is set to, but that may have something to do with it.

U will need to check the power switch 1st, this requires testing a "HOT" circuit and you will need a volt meter and knowledge of electrical testing, if the switch tests ok then the motor is defective and will need to be replaced, this should be performed by a qualified repair center, there are adjustments that need to be done after the unit is pulled apart and the motor replaced to insure correct operation of the plainer

It sounds like your blade holder assy has become misaligned on the blade drive shaft. Try if you can to use a straight edge on 2 planes 90 deg apart and see if there are any gaps in either of the srtaight edges. I suspect that the blade drive holder has become slightly dislodged from the drive collar on one end allowing the blade drive to tilt on the drive shaft. I had the same thing happen on another brand named Planer and it was a matter of reseating the collar to cure the stripes. Sure took a long time to sort out. Good Luck.

I had the same problem...sometimes you have to take the smallest amount off (1/64th) and it might work, otherwise your blades are probably dull. Try to feed the boards through the planer towards the sides, not just the center so they wear evenly across the length of the blades. They wear out very quickly, which makes this planer very frustrating. If you take the top cover off and inspect them, you'll probably see nicks in them and it's time to replace or rotate them. Each blade has two sides you can remove all the screws using the T-handle wrench from the top cover and flip them. Also, as the blades begin to wear, the planer will become louder and louder. That's another way to tell. When you install new blades notice how much quieter it is when you plane boards.

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/dewalt/DW735_TYPE_1 I see part 126 as a gearbox, check that, and the fan too.

I use denatured alcohol to clean the rollers on my Makita, and it doesn't seem to have harmed them over the years, but I do this infrequently. If your rollers are coated with pitch and or chips they won't feed well, no matter how they're adjusted.
(I don't think this planer has the capability to adjust the spring tension on the rollers, but I could be wrong.) You can consult the manual online at http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=22538&typeId=7605&documentId=21151
If you can attach dust collection to the planer it will probably help.
Also, the direction of the grain makes a difference when trying to plane boards as dense as poplar, (which has a kind of weedy, roey grain sometimes, that would prefer to tear out.)
For example, if you were feeding the board from right to left of the page, the grain on the side of the board should look like this//////// instead of this\\\\\\, which will have a tendency to tear out and jam the planer. If you can make sure the boards feed through in the right direction, this may solve your problems.
I heartily recommend the wax, as well. And possibly compressed air with a nozzle to blow chips aside.
Also consider the length of the boards and the effect of the drop weight on the planer's rollers if there is not an extension roller in place (or a worker) to hold the board as it makes its pass through the machine.
If you feed the board with the cup side down to begin with, taking light passes to smooth the top face, then flipping it over end over end and feeding the other side in the opposite direction, flattening first one face, then the other, you might have better luck.
Aside from all this, a surface planer isn't a jointer, which is designed to straighten & flatten boards, and portable planers in general won't perform as well as industrial models of the same capacity.
If you will continue to be running a lot of stock through your machine, you might want to consider investing in a used 13" Rockwell or Delta or some such cast iron planer, with rollers top and bottom to facilitate movement of course material. They aren't as portable, but might save time in the long run.
On a final note, there's no replacement for sharp knives. Even the best planer won't drive stock well when the knives get dull.
Best of luck!

copy and paste link https://www.manualslib.com/manual/97951/Makita-Dpc-6400-Dpc-6401-Dpc-7300-Dpc-7301.html?page=17

Hi, please replace the batteries first. If that does not work, please attempt to factory reset your device ( can reference manual). Thank you.

A pipe cutter is a tool that plumbers use to cut pipes. It gives a much cleaner and better cut than saws.

check base groove for debris / damage

Question edited to fix spelling. It is a Utility Knife, it has no software downloads. You posted to Computers and Internet? I'll move it to Cutting Tools. https://www.google.com/search?q=stanley+10-778

6-5/8 in FATMAX® Retractable Utility Knife ' STANLEY

https://www.stanleytools.com > product > 10-778 > 6-5... Designed with the user in mind, the 6-5/8 in. FATMAX® Retractable Utility Knife offers durability and strength in one compact package. .. .

Request the manual from the manufacturer/distributor.

With the cheapest multimeters costing as little as just a few dollars there is no reason not to have the ability to check things instead of guessing. With most portable tools and appliances the first thing to check is the power cord because around 60% of the time an internal break is the cause of a tool not starting. Power tools and appliances often have electronics to provide variable speed or soft start. Checking these is beyond the scope of the home repairer but a multimeter can check continuity to any electronic component and from it to the motor and the ensure there is continuity through the motor. If everything else is ok the fault is probably with the electronics if there is any. If you are feeling really brave, the final test is to temporarily and safely bypass the suspected component and apply power.