Cuisinart DGB-600 Coffee Maker - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

This can be caused from three different failures; the heating element itself, the bimetal thermal switch that controls the heating element or a thermal fuse that has opened with (or without) reason.
Check the bottom plate on which the pot sits after the machine has been on for several minutes to see if it has heated at all. If not, then the thermal fuse or the element has failed.
The former part is customarily welded to one end of the heating element and cannot safely be replaced by itself.
The thermal switch that causes the cycling of the element is clamped to the element but also is welded to its connecting points.
The entire assembly generally will need to be replaced.
The exact location of the failure can be found using the most primitive multimeter and a few minutes time. If you wish to DIY, answer back and I will guide you.

Hi,

When the cycle is finished, the coffeemaker will beep 5 times, indicating that the coffee is ready. The unit will turn off automatically.

The insulated carafe keeps the coffee warm for four hours. The aroma of the coffee is preserved thanks to the hermatic cover. It is not necessary to remove the cover to pour coffee.

Hope this will help you.
/Mirran

OK, here's the owner's manual for your coffee maker. I've got to run out for dinner, otherwise I'd give you the step-by-step, but the manual contains all the info you need to resolve this.

Also, it's nice to have a manual for any other issues you might come across, (programming auto brewing, cleaning, etc.)

Print and download a copy to save on your PC for future use and reference too.

http://www.cuisinart.com/share/pdf/manuals/dgb-600bc.pdf

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Cuisinart DGB-600 replacement charcoal water filters is Cuisinart DCC-RWF 6 pack charcoal water filters, 12 filters.

All the parts have to be in place, including both the removable grinder unit and its clear cover, even if you're using pre-ground coffee.

It also requires that both the top lid and the front "door" (to the basket area) are clicked shut, and that the basket and its cover are both in place.

One thing to check carefully is the clear cover to the grinder unit. There's a rubber-like "nub" that seems to actually control the switch, which tells the machine that the grinder unit is properly installed. If that rubber-like nub is missing (and unfortunately it IS possible to remove it, particularly during cleaning) ... that could be causing your problem. If you see a hole in the top of that clear cover... you're missing that "nub".

My new Burr Grind & Brew grinds away but all I get is hot water?

Same problem here. The hose has a one way valve in it as well. I slid the hose part way off the reservoir connection and used the extra length to make up for the portion I cut off at the cut (you may have to move the on one way vlave further down the hose). This was intended as temporary fix while mywife bought a new coffeemaker. The new coffeemaker has been itting here six months as my temporary fix continues to hold.

If you open the door in the front and remove the straining basket you will see an open space where the very bottom the grind cup sits. Take a long thin standard head screwdriver and insert it there until you feel the post of the grinding engine against the screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver like you are turning a screw. The grind unit should start to move up. You can try to use the screwdriver to pry upward to finish the job. Another post said that redrilling the brass post insert on the grind cup worked for him. The problem seems to be the grind motor post that has swollen or been misshapen through the use of the machine. If they were to ask me, there is a better design for this contraption, just look at any blender. Flat disks with downward (or upward) facing fingers on the removable container and the motor.

had same problem..i took the basket holder and door off and gave the basket slider a good cleaning along with other internal parts. now works fine

This is an all too common problem with these coffee makers, fortunately, it is an easy fix. Flip the coffee maker upside down and remove the 4 recessed screws holding the bottom on. You will need a long Torx (T-10) screwdriver to access them. For some reason, the two silicone hoses on the base were friction pressed on to recessed nipples. Over time, it is only natural they will loosen their grip and cause an annoying leak all over your counter. No room to clamp them and no need to replace the hoses if they are still in good condition. My recommendation is to dry the outer recesses as much as possible and half fill the circumference with high temp RTV (silicone) seal. Press the hoses back on, wipe off the excess squeezed out silicone and reassemble. If you want to be annal, I suppose you could remove and re-tension the spring clamps at the other end where they attach to the heater tubes. This repair should last forever ... and no, I am not an engineer.

Hi,
Remove the bottom of the coffee maker, identify two rubber tubes and check to see if one has come loose or is simply not on tight. A simple reattaching of one of the tubes will work.
Another reason could be draining hole getting clogged with coffee grounds. When this happens it is easily fixed by removing the brew group and overflow tray;find the small drain at the back that drains excess water into the overflow tray and opens it up with a pipe cleaner or tooth pick. Flush out any coffee ground behind that hole. Hope this helps. Shane

The Manual for your coffee maker can be found here:

http://www.cuisinart.ca/pdf/ibs/en/DGB-600BCC_en.pdf

'Leaks' are usually caused by overfilling either the water reservoir or the coffee basket or by coffee grounds interfering with a seal.

Make sure you perform a complete cleaning on your coffee maker making sure any contact points which need to seal are free of coffee grounds.

Instructions for removing the grinder and filter baskets are contained within your manual.

sounds like the coffee maker had a power surge. Try setting the time again.
1. Setting the Clock When the coffeemaker is plugged in, 12:00 will appear until you set the time. Entering "Time Set" Mode: To set the time, hold down either the "Hours" or "Minutes" button until the clock begins flashing (about 2 seconds). You are now in the "Time Set" mode and can operate either button to achieve the desired setting. The buttons can be held down to scroll through the digits, or pressed and released lightly to advance one digit at a time. When scrolling, the numbers will advance slowly at first and then speed up to the rate of about three per second. When the number displayed approaches the desired setting, release the button and press repeatedly to advance one digit at a time. Be careful to make sure that the PM indicator is on if a PM time is desired. Exiting "Time Set" Mode: The "Time Set" mode can be exited in one of two ways: 1. Press any button besides the "Hours" or "Minutes" button. This will exit the "Time Set" and activate the selected function. 2. Do nothing. If neither the "Hours" nor "Minutes" button is pressed for a period of five seconds, the "Time Set" mode will be exited. 2. Setting the Program Ti m e : When you press the "Program Set" button, it displays the current program time (default time 12:00 p.m.). Entering "Set Program Time" Mode: Press and hold the "Program Set" button (about 2 seconds) until the green light and LCD display begin to flash. This signals that you have entered the "Set Program Time" mode. The desired time can be set by pressing the "Hours" and "Minutes" buttons to scroll forward through the digits. Pressing and holding either button will allow you to scroll continuously, slowly at first, and then to accelerate to the rate of about three digits per second. As the desired time setting approaches, release the button and then press repeatedly to advance one digit at a time. The coffeemaker will start to brew at the programmed time. The "Program" mode cannot be entered if the c o ffeemaker is in its "brew" cycle. Exiting "Set Program Time" Mode: "Set Program Time" may be exited in any of three ways: 1. Press the "Program Set" button. This will cause the coffeemaker to revert to its previous state. If it was OFF, it will return to the OFF position. If "Programmed", it will revert to this state, and so on. This is a safety feature. 2. Press any other button (except "Hours" or "Minutes"). "Set Program Time" will be exited and the function of that button will be executed. 3. Do nothing. If neither the "Hours" nor "Minutes" button is pressed for a period of five seconds, the "Set Program Time" mode will be exited and the programmed setting will be in effect.

It sounds like the water isn't flowing through the coffee grounds correctly. Perhaps you don't have the right kind of filter installed (either the right-sized paper filter, or the "gold" filter that comes with the machine) ... or, if uising pre-ground coffee, and if the coffee is all in a pile in the middle of the basket... the water will follow the path of least resistance, so much of it may run "downhill" and around the coffee, through the filter and into the carafe, without passing through the coffee. (That would be more likely if you're brewing only a few cups rather than a full pot.) Or, you might not be using enough coffee; I would use about 7-8 tablespoons of ground coffee for 10 cups of water. I'd recommend getting it working properly with pre-ground coffee before trying the grinder. It's also important that the lid of the carafe is in place while brewing, and that the carafe is fully seated in its chamber; the bump on top of the carafe's lid triggers a spring-loaded mechansim on the bottom of the basket, which regulates the flow of water into the carafe... so if any parts of this system aren't lined-up right, you may get unexpected results (including, in some cases, water all over the countertop).

I also recall, once upon a time, using one of those pre-packaged "packets" of coffee... sort-of like a large tea bag full of coffee grounds... and getting unsatisfactory results; again, the water found it easier to run over/around the coffee packet, rather than through it.

It's a Torx, size T-9. When I got mine at Home Depot a few years ago, they weren't available individually, only in a somewhat-pricey set of 5 sizes.

This web page talks about leaks and cautions against removing the bottom plate without a special tool:
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/general-talk/5276-cuisinart-dcc-2000-coffee-maker.html
At the end of the blog, a fellow talks about some machines having security torx bits holding the bottom plate on. They're not going to make it easy to fix. This seems to be the hardest part of taking the machine apart, as there are not other explanations for the rest of the procedure.
Good luck, hope this helps, and thanks for using FixYa.

I don't have a solution but the same thing happens to mine...anyone out there have a solution?

Unlikely to have been storm affected. Have you tried it in another wall socket ?? If so and it still dead, death may have been just a coincidence.

Check with supplier to see if it has replaceable internal fuses OR have it serviced - first consider service costs v cost of new machine.

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It may be. Unplug the machine and take it apart. Find the thermal fuse. It is usually on one of the power wires near the plate. Check it with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Replace it if it is open (no continuity) I'm not sure if they still do, but Radio Shack used to sell the fuses.