20 Most Recent Bosch RotoZip Spiral Saw RZ10 - 2100 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

In most cases its not worth to invest TIME if you have a rotak 40 or so , because of the low quality of Bosch mowers its because of they have take over qualcast brand from England they are now owner , the last years there are mowers that have a belt drive from electric mower ROTAK i have replaced a belt but its takes so many thinking and working time to split and rebuild after that the bearings are also not fresh enough to let it be whats over when its over with the bosch mower get an other brand I've never been in working misjudged restoring so, one machine mainly perform the standard excess tension on the belt which the bearing to excessive heat, the stuff is made to break down. i have this year 20 years behind me in repairing also Bosch powertools and thats not only the problem that its BOsch , no its the Qualcast quality that fits the last years inside the bosch brand. the last 7 years the Bosch powertools are differend by model and price and from bad to perfect. but the most common problem is the working time that you will have on a green rotak mower. if you own a old model Bosch fore 8 years ago then the parts are sometimes difficult to get. difficult to place an correct answer but be warned if its handling a rotak .

Could be the Armature itself (and the both bearings) and gear wheel bearings . worn tooth worm and ring gear remember if replace armature then also carbonbrushes bearings and drive gear with bearings Then its working again in some cases if the color of the armature is bad then also measure of the electric field and look if its whether it is still firmly mounted.

It sounds like you need to replace the shaft.

put the blade next to ruler and count the number of teeth in the inch measurement with 6 tpi blade there would be a tooth every 3/32 nch

Here is the manualhttp://mdm.boschwebservices.com/MDMCache/English%20%5BUS%5D/t10/0000000/r00995v-1.pdf http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/MDMCache/English%20%5BUS%5D/t10/0000000/r00995v-1.pdf

unscrew the bolt that holds it on!!!! answer 3

unscrew the bolt that holds it on

unscrew the bolt holding it on

I had the same problem.
I found a broken wire at the stator winding where it is gripped to the connector, see pictures.
Because the wire is very short, I soldered it to the connector.
That's it.

Remove the cap on the end of the motor and remove the 2 carbon brushes. (Ensure the brushes move freely in the tubes and contact the armature) Remove the 4 screws holding the motor housing to the frame and pull it straight off. Check the copper commutator on the armature and make sure it is not burnt. If armature and brushes look fine my guess is you have a bad field (very common problem in this tool) #1619PA5590 http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bosch-4000-0601476139-table-saw-parts-c-128_167_168.html

Hi Brian, running your angle grinder on reduced voltage (through overloading the petrol generator) will have caused the current in the grinder to be higher than it should be. This may not be what you expect, but it is a characteristic of rotating machines, they behave differently to resistive machines such as heating elements. You have not indicated how you come to the conclusion that the windings test OK. If you have just checked with an ohm-meter and see a continuity reading, this does not eliminate the possibility that the overheating resulting from over-current has broken down the insulation (evidenced by the smell and sparks) and you have short circuited windings. The grinder will run without a suppression capacitor, it is just there to minimise interference with you neighbour's (or your wife/girlfriend/daughter's :) ) radio. Replacing the capacitor will not restore your grinder, I reckon you have killed it, in spite of the fact that running it on a healthy supply was to quickest way to cool it effectively.

Replace capacitor, Yes it would give those symptoms

could be bearings locking up/seizing or do you smell any burning when running indicating the armature/field are burnt from possibly overloading with a dull blade.

I had the same problem and it cost me new gears in the end but I found a solution.
Put the nut in a lathe and drill out the thread with a 14mm drill, then machine a recess of 0.5 x 52mm to get some extra clearance and machine a 2 x 42mm pocket for the SDS-click nut to fit in.
I did this about 6 months ago and use it professionally and haven't needed the spanner yet, hardly ever needed the locking pin (mine has a brake) and it never came loose.
Note: chisel marks were result of frustration to need to remove the nut.

Look behind the angle adjustment on the front of the saw. It's a little black button to push in towards the motor. Remove the battery first and then rotate the blade until you feel the button lock in and secure the blade/armature.

Consult the owner's manual. I would start with looking near the top of the blade. You might need a chuck key.

www.boschtools.com/Service/ProductServices/.../ServiceandSupport.asp Take it back apart and see what is improperly installed and clicking .