20 Most Recent Craftsman 1/2" Impact Wrench - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Shorten the cord or use a father one. Typical for voltage drop in loaded motors.

Is there pressure in the tank already? The reset is usually on the end of the motor. The pressure switch, a diaphragm pushes against an adjustable tension spring. Less spring tension cuts the motor out at lower pressure, more tension at a higher pressure. Has this adjustment been used? It may have a second adjustment, either nut or screw, that adjusts the pressure differential between cut in and cut out.

Usually there is a leak some where. turn off and watch pressure to see if it drops and listen for any air leak. you should not hear anything.

Have you tried oiling the unit. Sometimes putting a bit of 3 in 1 oil or wd 40 in the air intake will loosen the parts so they work correctly.

That motor has been discontinued. You might try and replace start capacitor and if it has run capacitor replace it also. From experience I found that is cheaper to junk unit and buy a new one. You wouldn't want spend a couple hundred dollars on motor.

Try carefully lightning the tubing nut to resale.

NO. If your tank leaks from pinholes you could try and braze the closed

possibly an installation problem most control units screw directly into the tank and the pressure is read directly to the diaphragm that controls the switching check if the bleeder line is supposed to be attached to the control unit at all unless you have a peculiar set up the compressor line goes to a nonreturn valve into the tank there is a relief valve in the tank that blows off when dangerous pressures are reached ( around 120 psi) there is a fitting where the control screws in and that reads tank pressure to control the on/off of the motor

It will leak until head pressure is drained. I'd it keeps bleeding until late no more air in than your tank check is bad

common problems are failed poppet valves or reed valves broken springs for poppet valves failed non return valve in the pipe to the tank pull the head/s and check the poppet valves or reed valves

And that most likely burned out the engine bearings.

check the amps requirements for the compressor, it should be at least 20 amp breaker without much else on it running at the same time.See what else goes off when breaker trips

Is it oil less ? If it's a cast pump with oil it requires full power no little cheap extension cords. Could be out of oil. If oil less it maybe done

It should be a valve plate. You can get them at local air house.

Loose connections or voltage not right. 240v, 30 amp breaker, 10 gauge wire

In 80% of the cases this is the problem. I sulose that you use a lot this compressor so the one way valve gets worn out. The first stel is to pull out the smal hose when the unit stops and see if air escapes. If so then change the black piece in the photo. It will last for a small period of time. I recomend to change the piece in the photo.
This is a way to solve the problem if air escapes trough the small hose.7