20 Most Recent Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Intek V - Twin Vertical Ohv Engine with Electric Start 22 Hp, 1" X 3 5/32" Shaft, ModelNo. 44K777 - 0027 - E1 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You may get lucky and have a sheared keyway on the flywheel . Just a lil off can make a big difference on timing.

This is a vary commom problem with an Intek engine, I have a similar 21HP engine with similar issue. The valve is sticking in the valve guide, the valve guide usually slides in or out. If out, the guide can jamb against the keepers and not allow full valve opening, thus bending the rod. Fix the loose guide and tight valve before you put in another rod, or you will soon be putting more rods in. I think B&S should help everyone on this one. If the guide goes in, it can cause the valve not to close fully and cause a no run condition.

No. Cubic centimeter (cc) is a unit of volume. Horsepower is a unit of power. Two different 250 cc engines, for example, may put out different amounts of power, while 250 cc of sand won't put out very much.

if it's a 6 volt battery you're ok if it's a 12 volt battery then there is a problem

Exhaust valve is not closing completely or the valve seat is cracked.

Did the engine run out of coolant or oil, if so you may have to replace the engine. Did you do a oil change and over fill with oil ? Could you please forward more information.

The alternator (P/N 592831) should put out around13-14 volts DC with no load (other than charging the battery. If the voltage drops only when the deck is engaged but not when the lights are on it could be a connection to the mower clutch causing excessive current draw. I suggest covering the fundamentals such as ensure the battery is healthy, ensure all connections are clean and tight before condemning the stator. then and only then would I remove the flywheel to inspect the stator.

well, it sounds like maybe the head didn't get cleaned properly or it or the block is warped. which side of the gasket is the oil on? If u take it apart again u will probably see it clearly.

If it's coming from around carburetor area than you most likely have a blown head gasket. It's building up to much pressure in block and its blowing out your vent tube.

Here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/b303p22/Briggs-Stratton-Small-Engine-Repair-Manual/276781/1605383?modelNumber=20M114%2f0136-E1

.030 (thirty thousands). I use brass shim material as it is not magnetic.

It's the point at which the piston is at the top of the stroke, and cannot rise any further towards the head before descending again. You can probably find that point of crankshaft rotation by inserting a pencil into the spark plug hole and slowly rotating the crankshaft until the pencil stops rising. Mark the flywheel next to any conventient adjacent surface on the block or crankcase.

Had the same problem with the same engine. Governor control in the base of the engine fell apart. Requires pulling the engine which is pretty easy, then removing the bolts along the bottom of the crankcase. YOu'll see the governor and or pieces in the bottom. Use a magnet to get all metal pieces from the oil, then replace the governor. Get the model and type off the valve cover from the engine when replacing governor. 3 hour job and you're done..////While it's out check the valve lash by removing rocker covers. Set them at .006 or a tight 007. That way you'll know it didn't through a pushrod when it was over reving..good luck

Drain crankcase and check for fuel in oil.

Sounds like you make have a broken rod take spark plug out and carefully insert screw driver into hole and slowly turn the engine by hand with one hand and with the other hold the screw driver loosely if the screw driver does not move while turning the engine by hand it sounds like a broken rod. Even incorrect valve settings will have some compression

with a volt meter set to DC, pull the wires off of the starter solenoid coil (the small wires) and check for 8 - 12 volts DC at the wires when the key is turned. A poor connection at the solenoid coil will cause slow turning engine cranking or none at all. If you have 8 - 12 volts there check for voltage to ground on the large cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor, one probe on the cable and the other on ground or ( - ) at the battery. Turn the key to start, if you have voltage to the starter motor but it does not turn loosen and retighten the mounting bolts to the starter motor and if that does not help do the same for the engine to ensure you have a good ground. If none of that works your starter motor needs to be replaced, if you have no voltage to the motor the solenoid or battery connections are faulty. You can also quickly test starter health by conecting a set of jumper cables to a good battery, clamp the neg. to the engine block anywhere and tap the pos. to the starter cable connection from the starter solenoid, if the engine spins over your starter is healthy and the issue is certainly between the key switch and the starter solenoid.

1. bad head gasket 2. bad rings 3. valve adjustment

NO, just be sure that both surfaces are very very clean and free of oil.Put the gasket on and tork it to the specified tork then go get a cup of coffee, then come back and check the tork again. Good Luck and hope this helps you.